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K Series Head Gasket


Fallon

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Hello Fellow 7 owners

1st time posting and a bit new to 7 motoring and engine mechanics so please forgive me if this is a daft question.

I suffered a blown head Gasket on my 25 yr old Supersport and had a local mechanic replace it with the new uprated laminated replacement, new bolts, water pump etc etc. When he had finished he noticed the tick over was a bit "bobbly" so he went back in and checked all the timing which was all correct.

I now have a couple of differences in performance:-

Sometimes when dipping the clutch, say approaching a junction, as the revs drop and the engine stops

The engine feels down on power as to how it was before and top speed is down

The Mechanic says as the new gasket is thicker it may have altered the compression ratio so I am now looking into booking it into an Engine tuning specialist.

I thought it worth asking if this is the right course of action before I fork out a load of cash on this.

Thanks for any advice

Dave

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Hi Fallon

Near Coventry you should have a number of people who know their way around the K Series (of all specifications).  I think the key question after the blown head gasket is whether the head is still true.  Was it linished before refitting?

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I've never known the small difference in the head gasket thickness between an MLS and elastomer gasket make a noticeable difference. It certainly shouldn't lead to stalling and a noticeably lower performance. My guess would be - and it is a guess without seeing the car - that the person who changed the gasket has got the cam timing wrong on reassembly (despite apparently checking it). The other possibility that I can think of is that he's disturbed something electrical, maybe not got a sensor connector back on correctly or something. Certainly something sounds wrong, the change to an MLS gasket should not make that kind of difference to the running of the engine.

Where abouts are you based?

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My old 1.4 SS had exactly the same trait that you describe - sometimes the revs would dip and the engine would stall. When I took it to DVA for some work, he said the cams were all over the place! Once set up properly it never happened again and the awful shunting I used to have at low revs, light throttle disappeared completely too.

My money is on the cam timing.

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Could be Throttle Position Sensor related - check connections here, and perhaps reset it.  The ECU might not be detecting properly the closing of the throttle and its stalling.  I had this on my old 1.4SS - however, I never fully got to the bottom of it as i swopped to TB with a new TPS - but it went away afterwards!  

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Dave brought the car over to see me this morning. As soon as I heard his car turning into my driveway I knew the cam timing was wrong.

With the crank timing mark aligned, one cam pulley was three teeth up and the other one three teeth down! So basically three teeth or 45° out at the crank. No wonder it wasn't happy.

We realigned the pulleys and did a hot leak down test just to make sure it hadn't bent any valves - everything checked out fine.

The car now idles normally, has its mojo back, and is on its way back to Coventry.

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1st of all, Andrew such a pleasure to meet you and the family. A real gentleman and clearly an expert on K series engines.

My 7 was like her old self on the trip back, Power back up, Tops peed there again and the noise from what was a very "angry" sounding engine back to a much more acceptable level and tone. So pleased with the result!

My local mechanic will get some feedback but he was such a nice guy to deal with and clearly a decent chap it will be an entirely civil conversation, we're all human after all.

 

Again Thank You Andrew, really appreciate your help with this matter!

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