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Loud (clack from rear suspension ) when going over bumps


Ralph45

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#2 SM25T

My thoughts initially the wheel nuts but they are torqued correctly and this seven doesn't have watts links or rear ARB. 
 

#3 7 Wonders

Are you referring to the unused hole by the seat ? I believe there are mounting position options and this car uses the other?

I'm going to nut and bolt check the rear end later tonight to see if anything is amiss.

The first time I heard it my initial thoughts were handbrake cables smacking the dedion tube as its very metallic sounding but there are no marks to suggest this and I have since wrapped some bike inertube around them to silence the noise with no effect.

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Does the car have an FIA bar (with diagonal)? If yes there are (or should be) two thin headed bolts that sit above the shocks, fixing into the bottom of the FIA bar. It has been reported previously that the shocks can touch these bolt heads in a bump. This is on the imperial chassis. This area on the metric chassis was re-engineered to create more space above the shock.

Ian

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If you use the Powerflex centre deDion bushing (https://www.demon-tweeks.com/powerflex-dedion-a-frame-centre-bush-pfxpf8-907/), the nylon limit washers I received were a bit oversized compared with the Caterham "race washers" (https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fixings-other/1438-nylon-racing-washer-shim-175-x-32-x-1.html) and moved around a lot more, getting chewed up. I managed to destroy the Powerflex washers in 5 track days compared with about double that for the Caterham ones. I'm currently experimenting with my own reverse cone washers that fill the gap better between the 45 degree face on the A-frame ends and the deDion attachment point.

Once these limit washers wear, you get clunking with any lateral load, but if the car is generally for road use, they shouldn't need replacing very often, but for track use a season is about the life limit.

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I'm looking to see it the whole area can be reworked to accommodate a spherical joint there to permit free articulation of the axle without imparting torsionally and bending loads to the A frame - seen quite a few cracked and broken.

The reverse set up as used on the LA was my option but either way will require some fabrication and welding to tube and / or frame. need to look at suitable joint dimensions and work from there......its on the list  *rotate*

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been hunting a very similar noise on my car for a while. Exactly the same situation where if one rear wheel hits a bump it is silent. If both drop together like when there is a rut across the road, it clunks like something is badly loose.
I've removed hood sticks, checked all bolts, replaced the ARB droplinks, seats, headrests, cable tied everything, sorted the boot floor, you name it..

The other day I tightened the two long threaded bars that hold the fuel tank in place approximately another 5mm. I haven't heard it since. I'm too skeptical to say I've found it after so much effort searching, but I didn't hear it once the last time out whereas normally I would hear it 5 or 6 times on a run.  Thought it was probably worth a mention. 
 

22daz

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"The other day I tightened the two long threaded bars that hold the fuel tank in place approximately another 5mm. I haven't heard it since. I'm too skeptical to say I've found it after so much effort searching, but I didn't hear it once the last time out whereas normally I would hear it 5 or 6 times on a run."

Very interesting.

To remove the (admirable) skepticism... how about backing them off to where they were and seeing (!) if the noise recurs?

Jonathan

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Thank you for this response this is something I hadn't considered.Tomorrow morning the car will be up on a fellow club members lift and this is something that will be checked,any findings will be reported back.  
 

Ralph

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Well we managed to get to the bottom of it after putting the car up on Chris's ramp.

The A-frame bushes checked and after a closer inspection with bolt removed and     A-frame dropped decided they were all OK. Then we moved on to the next possibility as suggested by 22daz and bingo,there was a loose fuel tank retaining rod allowing about 4/5mm movement of the tank.

After reassembly I did about five miles on roads I know would hi light the clacking noise and all was quiet.

I have just come in from a lovely sixty mile afternoon drive and it's 100% quiet now.

A big thank you to 22daz for suggesting the possible fix  *beer*  and a huge thank you to Chris for the use of some great facilities and the cups of coffee throughout the morning.

Ralph

 

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