Can an amateur mechanic (me) swap a flywheel...?

[Aerial_stu]

An amateur mechanic is perhaps a bit strong, but I'm fairly handy with a spanner.

I've never had an engine out, or split a gear box from an engine.

I asked a local garage (that I knew to have experience with Caterhams) and they said they had never done it so couldn't offer a quote.

I quite fancy getting a lighter flywheel, and wondered if I could do the work myself.

Ideally I'd do it myself with some help from someone who has more experience than me.

What do you reckon?

[Jonathan Kay]

Hi, Stuart.

Where are you?

Have you found the Equipment Register?

And would you like a (dis) Assembly Guide?

Jonathan

 

[Aerial_stu]

Hi Jonathan, I'm based near Perth.  Yes to the disassembly guide please.

I probably have most of the tools (except an engine hoist and any special tools for the clutch etc).

 

[TomB]

Yes, taking the engine out yourself (with a friend) is a water shed moment in any 7 owners life and its not a hard job with another pair of hands, a bit of confidence and a crane.  Have a good look at the manual and try to work out the order of doing it in reverse.  A good day in the garage, or over a weekend is about right if you don't want to rush.  

You can take the engine out without the gearbox, then it really isn't too difficult to do with the engine either hanging on the crane or on the floor.  There's usually ~6-8 bolts holding the clutch cover to the flywheel, once that's off, there's a few bolts holding the centre of the flywheel to the crank.  You can use a dedicated clutch alignment tool, or the right sized socket on an extension piece also works.  Gives a good opportunity to inspect / replace the clutch / CRB.   

 

[ScottR400D]

Which car/engine is it? 

[ScottR400D]

I with help have removed/replaced a Sigma in a day, including removing and replacing the sump and RMS, which necessitates removal/refitting of the FW and clutch of course. 

That was an S3 and the gearbox was left in place. 

[Aerial_stu]

Hi Scott, its a 2016 310s SV (1600 Sigma).

[ScottR400D]

There you go then. I would say a reasonably competent amateur can do it. 
 

A few tips: 

Disconnect the inlet manifold to get at the starter. You can do it with long 3/8 drive wiggle bars but it's much easier to lift the manifold. (Might be easier with an SV?)
Alternator may need removing. 
You need to be able to support the engine securely to torque the flywheel bolts to about 110N.
Get all your torque settings ready before you start and use new, good quality FW bolts. 
 

[Beagler]

Take plenty of photo's before you undo/remove anything so you have a reference where cables/pipes went and how components should fit. What mileage has the car done.  There could be things that would be wise to replace whilst engine and gearbox are out.

[Aerial_stu]

Hi Beagler, 22,000 miles.  I'd replace the clutch at the same time, anything else to consider?

[Beagler]

Why do you want a lighter flywheel. There are pros and cons. Are you planning on racing.

 

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28561/what-are-the-benefits-of-a-lightweight-flywheel-and-why-arent-they-lightweight

[Aerial_stu]

Great question, and one I've asked myself a lot.  I drove a hire car with a lightened flywheel and loved the faster pick up and better engine braking.  I don't actually remember my issues at low revs.

sometime I'm struggling to get from 2nd to 3rd gear very smoothly, and I wonder if that would help.

It's also something to do during winter

[rj]

Cons: Slight rattle from the gearbox at idle, and you can't be quite as clumsy with the clutch. But still not an issue at all. Otherwise none.

Pros: Everything.

And it's not difficult at all!
 

[ScottR400D]

Most people I know with LF like them. Some have even had ULFs fitted and rave about them. 

A 7 being fairly light in itself allows you to get the best from a LF but you do need to take a bit more care with the clutch and gear changes. 
 
Probably not going to help with your 2-3 change. I was talking to someone with a ULF on a Duratec; he reckons it's hard to change smoothly between 1-2, but 1-3 works well!

 

[ScottR400D]

Doesn't the 310 have a LF in the first place? 

[krisfl]

Sadly none of the  Ti-VCT sigma's are fitted with a LF as standard. The supersport option on the older fixed cam sigma's doesn't seem to be a thing anymore! But they come alive with one... the 310 just has a set of cams and a map over the 270. they're otherwise the same.

[Golf Juliet Tango]

taking the engine out yourself (with a friend) is a water shed moment in any 7 owners life

I have taken an engine out with friendly help and I want never to do it again.

[rj]

"I have taken an engine out with friendly help and I want never to do it again."

 

Stephen,

I guess this was the 21 where access is a little more complicated than in a Seven.

 

I have taken engines out of quite a few cars over the time. The Seven is one of the easiest to work on. On my K-series I could change clutch in about five-six hours prior to dry-sumping it. But OK, there's been a lot of rehersals...

[Wrightpayne]

I've lost count how many engine removals / installs I've done on sevens, on my own car and Tazio's - got to be 10+. Most nerve wracking was installing Tazio's newly refurbished BDR engine, probably worth 15k on its own :-0

Just be methodical, take pictures, box up nuts and bolts writing on what they are (Takeaway containers ideal for this) label pipes and cables. If something isnt going right or well, just have a break for a bit, cuppa and a biscuit then revisit the task. 
 

What gearbox does it have? If it doesn't have a drain plug (like the sierra 5sp) consider changing the oil while its out.

Ian

[Geoff Brown]

Fitting an engine & gearbox to a Seven is also a watershed moment. Especially if the angle of dangle is not quite correct.  Duratec engines are the culprits due to the lack of clearance from the front diagonals.

A Sigma out/in should be a walk in the park.

[Aerial_stu]

Hi Ian, I believe its a Mazda MX5 gearbox

[Golf Juliet Tango]

I guess this was the 21

Yes but I guarantee I not going to do it again, either on the 21 or the Crossflow.

[rj]

I did it long time ago on a Crossflow.

If you think that's bad, then come and join me when I do it on the Passat TDI DSG.

Just to remove the DPF you need to lower the front subframe (requiring re-allignment of the steering geometry afterwards).

I am to change flywheel and turbo on the car. I think lowering the subframe will not do; have to completely remove it, I think.

(But I have an assembly guide though)
 

[timb2117]

Shudder passat shudder horrible, it took me - bumper, front valance at least 10 other parts and about 50 torq bolts to change one headlight bulb on a vw jetta, truly yuk. Runs in the DNA too just tried to fix the thermostat housing on my wifes skoda vrs, best advice - dont....plastic with self tappers secreted in the lower gastro belly of the car - oh but the upside lots of plastic bits with an Audi badge on them!!!

7's however a real joy, k series 6 speed box in out box refurbed and lots of nice bits done and it was enjoyable (apart from the bit where I thought I had squashed my 17 year old son underneath it) - I told him it was character building.... 

If you need any advice drop me a pm as you go (albeit different engine) happy to "advise."