Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Vertical link


jackb_ms

Recommended Posts

I've read both you're questions and dont understand what you're asking.

The whole front hub assembly will come off the car. Top ball joint is on a taper and depending on type the bottom one just lifts out (spherical) or removes with trunion once either un-bolted. Brake calliper and track rod end need removing too.

You can get a ball joint splitter into the top joint but be careful of the rubber. Dave Gemzoe sells a nifty threaded tool that wedges in below the ball joint and winds up to push the ball joint.

Does that answer your question?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will probably need to swap the stub axle over. I used my 1 tonne arbor press to do this on a friends car, it needed a lot of force and came out with a very loud bang! A bit of heat may have helped!

Also steering arm to swap - dont lose / forget the spacer washer!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use an M12 connecting nut and a set bolt (obviously M12) to remove the ball joint from the upright. Best to grind off any markings from the bolt - or even better turn it down to be a little hollow. Remember to leave the nut on the ball joint undone just enough to cover the whole end of the thread on the ball joint (to protect the thread and to avoid funny things from happening when it lets go). Like Ian says: They come off with a bang!

/r

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is wrong with the link to need replacing?  If it's minor, I might be interesting in buying it?

Undoing the wheel bearing nut will allow, once you remove the brake caliper, the whole thing to slide off.

Then you have to get the stub axle out - and has been said, it takes some force to do so - I borrowed a local garages press to do so as my lump hammer, or my application of it, wasn't enough to get them out.

As for track rod end (or indeed the top ball joint), a good crack with a lump hammer on the side/end of the bit the taper of the joint sits in, and the shock will free the taper easily without use of nuts, bolts, or ball joint splitters.  Or, with the evidence of the last 19yrs, damaging the plating as mine have suffered no affitional corrosion despite a upper joint and track rod end replacements over that time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flip it over, remove the cap. Take the cotterpin out and undo the castlated nut. You will be able to take the hub / disc off. 
 

I think you will need access to a press to get the stub axle out. You might be able to heat up the casting with a paint stripper or blow lamp and hit the stub axle, ideally with a copper faced hammer.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's not a lot to go wrong when doing this Jack (given that your upright is going to be replaced anyway). Give it a go...



Removing the cap from the hub can be fiddly, its just a case of tapping it with a punch or even a screwdriver. Work around it a little at a time and it will pop out. Removing the disc/hub is just a case of removing the split pin and undoing a nut (which won't be tight anyway).



To attempt to remove the stub axle make sure you have the nut on the thread as Ian points out, this is essential to avoid damaging the axle. Place the assembly on a steel surface (vice?) play heat over the hub where the stub axle enters it (get the upright as hot as possible minimising heating the actual axle as far as possible) and hit the stub axle/nut hard. If you can't move it you will at least have reduced the size of the assembly which you could then post to a friend for disassembly (the job isn't essential and shouldn't be a cause for breaking lockdown .... )



Courage mon brave!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jack, 

I've not really been sure what the difficulties have been, you haven't been clear.

For me you had done the hard bits and broken and removed the upright from the top and bottom tapers, the removal of the cap over the hub nut is straight forwards, as is the cotter pin and the castellated nut which holds the outer bearing and hub in place, the only difficulty is knocking the stub axle free from the upright  - so what bits did you get stuck with? And do you have the Assembly Guide for the car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...