Service period- brake and fuel hoses?

[SM25T]

No, I don't. But you can reuse them. If you want to anneal (soften) them ... once removed (!!!) ... just hold them in a gas flame until cherry red then allow to cool down. Job done.

[A7 OOH]

Thanks

[gulf 1]

I thought to anneal copper you heat it to cherry red then quench.

[Roadsport06]

No need to quench copper

[DJ.]

I always thought you should quench the copper too, it is the opposite of annealing steel which requires slow cooling.

[bjw]

The rate of cooling is not significant in the case of copper, but quenching in cold water will make the oxidation very easy to wipe off.

Cheers

[7 wonders of the world]

.....and then wash in dilute sulphuric acid scrub with sawdust and thoroughly rinse in water afterwards, this removes all the oxidization ideal if you are working the copper so the oxide doesn't get worked back in to the surface.

Brass however should not be quenched after heating as this fractures the structure

[TomB]

Or just replace the copper washer with a new one! 

My fuel hoses, particularly the two with swaged ends and fittings are original, so 23 years old.  I don't know why I didnt think of this earlier in the rebuild, but they need changing.  I've been following this and the other thread on Oertiker clips and will place an eBay order today.  Before I do, I just want to get clear what I need to do.  

Do I cut the fittings of the old rubber tube (using my Dremel probably) by cutting a line along the side of the metal fitting at the end of the pipe, and prizing the sleeve bit off, then puling the banjo (or whatever fitting) that is down the pipe bore? I don't want to slice through the pipe and cut the fitting within the bore.  Is this more or less right?  

And finally, is one hose clip adequate, or do I need two on each union?  

[SM25T]

One is fine. Yes, just cut through the wedding band type crimp without going through the hose to the hose end fitting inside. Once cut, prise it apart with a flat blade screwdriver and pull the hose off the end fitting. It is very easy.

[TomB]

Morning, I've  successfully changed the fittings on the rubber hoses on the high pressure side with new R9 hose. The Oetiker clips were really easy to use.
 

Unfortunately the low pressure hose from engine to tunnel is longer than I have left so I'll need more R9 hose. However upon removal, I've discovered this is an R7 hose and looks in such a condition it doesn't need replacing. I've cut a sliver off one end and internally there is no cracking visible. Im minded to refit it. 
  
while doing this I saw the black plastic pipe that returns the fuel down the tunnel to the tank. What's the thoughts on replacing this, and why is it plastic? I thought petrol degraded plastic. The hp side is metal. Any thoughts on the practicality of changing this while the propshaft gearbox etc are fitted?

[SM25T]

Maybe nylon ? Probably accessible with tunnel top removed ? Never heard of any horror stories ... yet.

[Mechanical Moz]

The right kind of plastic is fine with petrol. Think of all the things that use plastic petrol tanks, including cars.