bjw

I don't think the particular Hozan model I linked to has any wire strippers? You're right, I need new glasses. That being the case the Hozan looks pretty good! Cheers

I've not used any of the crimpers mentioned, but personally I prefer the flexibility and control of the two step process, so would definitely opt for the Hozan if it didn't waste half the jaw space (and leverage) with silly wire strippers. I have had a couple of old Molex tools for 30years+ (both non-ratchet) and between them they've been used many, many different types of terminal without any problems:- e.g. I'd never used Econoseals before getting the Seven, but found the larger tool worked just fine with them. The hooked end helps starting the round-over onto the seal , and the round opening adjacent allows the ends to be snugged down. No drama, split boots etc. It's actually still available as a Molex QM multipole crimper RS 468-686, but the smaller (and cheap) Molex KK one has long been superceded by a £300 ratchet device which does the same job but is more idiot proof... Cheers

Aerobod's Pro Point crimper is sold under the Kennedy brand in the U.K. e.g. £78 from Zoro: <LINK> Cheers

No catalytic converter ever fitted as far as I know. If you have difficulty this may be of help:- https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/mot-test-vauxhall-8v-engines Cheers

One thing I would be sure of is that the damper bushing is a tight sliding fit between the two tophats, any play here will cause an over-stressing of the aluminium bosses when the bolt is tightened. That would be a horrible design. However, the diagram shows a split bush (15) at the bolt head boss rather than a top hat, which I would guess is free to slide in the boss to take up any minor variations in the damper bushing length ? Cheers

if anything they’d increase lateral movement because they’re compressible and in any case wear through quickly, reducing the clamping force applied to the bolt There's clearly some misunderstanding here - the washers 'float' on the section of bush inner tube that extends 1.5mm past the outer tube - they're not clamped. Cheers

M12 I did have to shave them down a bit but it wasn't difficult An M12, form A, nylon washer has an outer diameter of only 24mm and a thickness of 2.5mm. How could that possibly work ? Apart from gap where it has to fit being only 1.5mm, 24mm barely covers the rubber fill, let alone provide a bearing surface between two metal areas In any case, looking closely at the washers, they only contact on the clamping face of the bush so they wear through. ?? The clamping face is the end of the inner tube. The washer is 'around' the inner tube. Cheers

Good to hear it's fixed, but for future reference it would be nice to understand how the circuit is arranged and what that earth wire was doing... Has nobody seen a wiring diagram showing this alternative hazard system ? Is it very rare ? Cheers

Caterham list two types of hazard rocker switch - the very common 6 terminal one ("1981 onwards") and a 4 terminal one ("2010 onwards") like yours. I've never seen a wiring diagram that shows the latter. I have some assembly guides from much later than 2010, all of which still show the original 6 terminal one, so it isn't clear how common it is. (Has JK sent you an appropriate wiring diagram ?) Be aware that much of the advice you find on the forum will be relevant only to systems using the 6 terminal switch. Cheers

Modifications to my dash illumination included fitting resistors in line with conventional bulbs (together with some other components). I used separate boards for each bulb (small pieces of Veroboard with connectors on each) , but they're all simply covered in heatshrink and cable tied to the wiring at the switch. With just series resistors you don't really need any board(s) at all. I'd just solder the resistors in line, cover in heatshrink and cable tie locally to the switch. - Much less disruption to the original wiring. In case anyone's interested:- https://sites.google.com/view/bjw-caterham-seven/rocker-switch-illumination Cheers

>amendments in progress.> Cheers

Yes, sorry Geoff, Alastair B put me straight on that but I still think a simple note might be useful, e.g. something like:- "Note: On pre 2003 hubs there is a protective dust cap which must be removed to access the hub nut, and no shim behind the inner bearing. Otherwise the procedure is very similar." As an aside, I personally like to rotate the wheel while applying the settling torque. It seems to give a better feel of what's happening. Others may not agree. By coincidence I've only recently replaced my front bearings. The previous 'repairer' had tightened the hub nuts far too much - and left them like that. They were tight enough that it was awkward to release them with the assembly off the car an on the bench, holding it with one hand and the spanner in the other. The hubs were also packed solid with grease. I expect you can guess what the bearing rollers and tracks looked like... Of course the person who did this probably imagined themselves to be supremely competent! As they say:- Cheers!

Apologies - I skimmed and missed that ! Cheers

Hi Geoff, In your technical guide I was surprised by mention of a shim between the inner bearing and the upright. I don't have them in my '98 Caterham, nor had I ever seen one in any Triumph based setup I've come across. So, had a look on CC parts and it seems it's only present in the later assembly from 2003 onward. I wonder if it might be worth adding a note to that effect in your guide to avoid any confusion to those of us with older cars? Cheers Barry

Glad to hear it's all sorted. Cheers

It's taken a while to confirm this... but I certainly get logged out by the system now and again without deleting any cookies. When I log on (in Windows) the session cookie lifetime is set to the default of 2,000,000 seconds, (23 days, 3 hours, 33 mins and 20 secs !). Perhaps admins are given different timeouts, or the cookies are set differently for different operating systems ? (The relevant cookie is the one with the long name starting "SSESS...".) Cheers

14.3 volts doesn't sound too bad if that's measured at the battery rather than at the alternator. The sense wire is designed to compensate for the voltage drop in the wiring between the alternator and the battery when there's a high load - e.g. the battery is taking a large charge current or the headlights, radiator fan etc. are on. If you run the engine with as much electrical load as possible, and connect a sense wire and the voltage rises then you'll know whether it's worth fitting permanently or not. Cheers

It doesn't sound as though you have tried connecting the sense 'S' terminal to battery +ve as suggested? If the alternator is designed to use the sense input it may well default to a nominal output if left disconnected. From a Delco-Remy document regarding such alternators:- Connection of the Remote Sense terminal is best for optimum performance; however, the alternator will function without Remote Sense connected. Cheers

It's a simple potential divider, so:- V = Vsource * Rsender /(Rsource + Rsender) The graph is drawn assuming the analogue to digital converter nominally outputs 1023 for an input V = Vsource (i.e. with an open circuit sender) so becomes:- x = 1023 * Rsender /(Rsource + Rsender) As for the 'S' shape - here's another graph showing three different source resistances - the curves of the sender and the divider fight each other and the source reistor value determines which one tends to dominate:- Cheers

Do you still get the sigmoid transfer function with that explanation? Yes, because of the sender characteristics. Temp/resistance data for typical sender here:- https://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/users/42534/Temperature_Sensor_NTC_M12_Datasheet_51_en_2782569739pdf.pdf - Using Andrew's figure of a 1780 ohm source resistor results in the following relationship:- Cheers

the engine will not start! I hope it's not anything to do with the alternator wiring! Cheers

Presumably the field coils would be unable to pick up an excitation current via "S"? I doubt it would be designed that way - the sense isn't switched so would pull current even with ignition off. Cheers

But don't some alts rely on the warning-light circuit for excitation? Yes , but in this case AMBO confirmed it has been charging o.k. with no warning lamp connection. Cheers

It's not clear to me where your alt gets its excitation current from at the moment. That's the function of the 'IG' connection. Again, it's probably worth moving the warning lamp connection from 'S' to 'L' and then doing a test run before connecting the sense, just to get a bit more information. Careful - croc clips and a vibrating/shaking engine isn't an ideal combination...especially if it's the alternator end of the sense lead that comes off! Cheers

Such as the big fat terminal on the starter, perhaps? Seems reasonable. I suppose in theory the best place would be at the master switch, but in reality there shouldn't be a significant drop from the master switch to that point, and it would likely be much easier to wire it to to the starter.. Cheers