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front caliper torx/star bolt


griffchris

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Take it steadily and make sure socket is square on to bolt as you undo with as long a wrench as you can get, to improve control. Two people, one ensuring socket is located and one turning is best. 

This is assuming you have similarly poor fitting socket and tight thread locker. 

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  • 7 months later...

Well I didn't get this done over the winter so started today .

The two near side ones came out relatively easy , that may have been because Caterham changed the caliper under warranty .

The off side was a complete bu33er . One bolt is now out but the other gave up half way out . The end is completely rounded and won't budge at all . Tried cutting  a slot in it but can't effect enough torque to turn it . 

Have given up for today . If anyone in NW London ( Pinner ) has a welder handy I guess I could try that . Alternatively I may try to drill the head off and then try and get the stud out with some Stilsons ( although I worry it may be too stiff for that ) 

Ridiculous design , three cap heads now in use ....

 

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From my experience I would think an impact wrench would simply guarantee and hasten the damage to the heads. 

The problem is getting a well fitting socket but CC don't appear to know or possibly care what it is. Presumably they aren't doing the initial assembly. 

Your best route would be to try to get capheads fitted in the first place. 

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Good question. As far as I know it's still a Torx E12 or EP12. However, though the latter fits better than the former, neither are a good fit. 

It left me wondering if it's something other than Torx. 

I have the EP12, which I'm happy to lend, but they're not expensive.  

Peter

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xlarge_IMG_5394.jpg.06991bd1dc82fd79a02ed8a56bdd0043.jpg

Well ive sorted mine now , what a job , had to drill the head off in the end .

Even with the caliper removed it was still a job to remove the rest of the bolt . Whilst the head isnt a great design to apply a large amount of torque through the problem seems to be the strength of the threadlock used .REALLY difficult to turn it even though there was only about 5mm of thread left in the upright .

Have replaced with Capheads ( and some sensible threadlock ) IMG_5395.jpg.115b008b1dc103ed389f11c15904beca.jpg

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Hi I spoke with a technician at caterham dartford and they said they have not heard of this issue. Not from customers or the caterham dealers. I explained I have a build slot soon and that was my concern that I don't want to suffer these issues. They said there's no issue and nothing to worry about.. 

 

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Speak to the Mark in the service dept at Crawey and he will tell you they can be a bu33er to undo .

Has the chap at Dartford actually disassembled one after 2 years and several thousand heat cycles ?

Maybe they have changed the threadlock they are using now ?

 

Jonathan

The socket isnt the issue , i have the one CC told me was needed . The issue is that the bolt head is softer than the  torque required to resist  the threadlock at the other end . 

 

 

Thinking about this laterally you can actually remove the pad pins if you remove the mudguard stay , given the fact that i had to remove this to drill off the bolt head it might be an easier option for those who are concerned about trying to remove the caliper , leave the caliper fixed to the upright and remove the stay to allow the pad pins to be removed . 

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Hi Mark,

It is E12 however you should not need to remove these to change the pads. If remove the clips and pins the pads should come out.

Regards,

James

James Gibson
Warranty Manager
Caterham Cars

Kennet Road, Dartford, DA1 4QN, UK
E: james.gibson@caterham.com  | T: +44 (0)1322 625804 
www.caterhamcars.com

Of course he was wrong about not needing to remove the  caliper to change the pads and corrected that in a later Email .

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