Gary G Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 I need to recharge my battery. Service manual says it is important to disconnect the battery from the car before doing this as it will damage the electrics. Is this true? If so, do you have advice for a novice as to what to do first? e.g. Remove red before black terminals or vice versa? Do I need to remove the round covers on the battery to allow the chemicals to let off fumes? What is the clear pipe coming out of the battery? Does this come off, or do I need to take out the battery with it still attached? Please bear in mind that my garage isn't connected to the house and has no power, so I'll need to either move the battery into the house, or use an extension lead to the garage, which is not ideal. Thanks in advance. C7 GAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 I have only ever turned off the master switch and then connected direct to the batt. Plug the batt charger in after the clips are on and you have no risk of the connection spark igniting H2. I always do it with the bonnet off. Low charge battery chargers or trickle chargers don't create enough gas to worry about. Fast chargers I would think are a problem with gases and sparks and prob aren't too good for the battery either. Some batts are sealed so you can't remove the plugs. Most are semi sealed. I would extension lead out to the garage. Batt charge less well in the very cold. In the UK it doens't really get very cold... /Steve My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here Photo's of the year here Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 I've just brought a battery charger/conditioner from Julian Thompson, very good bit of equipment!! Keeps battery in tip-top condition Martin MW 51 CAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 Always remove the negative lead first (black). It is a good idea to disconnect this one lead when using a rapid charger but not necessary with a trickle or conditioner device. Not to mention of course that 'ordinary' battery chargers are half wave rectified and present a dirty potential; not harmful to the battery but death to control modules and the like. Notionally there is a diode in the regulator pack to stop interferance from a charger etc. Steve B Edited by - sjwb on 6 Dec 2002 09:24:09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Micallef Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 Gary, I asked the same question about a week ago. I have only been out in my car about once in the past 8 weeks and the battery is flat as a pancake ☹️. The Happy 7 Owner 😬 😬 😬 Edited by - anthony micallef on 6 Dec 2002 11:21:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 sjwb, Why on earth would the manufacturers only provide half wave rectification. It is only the cost of 3 more diodes to do the job properly. OK, I can understand not bothering to smooth the outpput, but to lose 50% for te cost of 3 diodes seems senseless. Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreK Posted December 7, 2002 Share Posted December 7, 2002 It's quite feasible, but not good practice, to charge with battery still connected. However you have more chance of sparks and there will be hydrogen about so get the ventilation as good as you can. If you are disconnecting battery, always disconnect the earth lead (black) first. If re-connecting battery connect earth lead last. This way if your non-insulated spanner touches the bodywork you won't have 30 amps or more going to earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John W Posted December 9, 2002 Share Posted December 9, 2002 I had battery problems a couple of years ago so after buying a new battery I also invested in a conditioner from Carcoon. Good bit of kit which works well. no problems since then even in the winter John W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted December 9, 2002 Share Posted December 9, 2002 IF (and that is a BIG IF) you disconnect the battery leads to put it on a conditioner, will that zap the config on the imoboliser? our old tvr had a battery failure, and nightmares ensued when replaced with the imoboliser... Steve Metalic Black SV-VHPD click here to see our 7 and rallye pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Green Posted December 9, 2002 Share Posted December 9, 2002 No. You don't need to disconnect anything with a conditioner though. It only charges at half an amp or so. One of the advantages is that all the car security gear can continue to work. I've been using an Airflow one for 4 years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amosian Posted December 9, 2002 Share Posted December 9, 2002 Now I'm concerned with this immobiliser talk. My battery is totally flat so needs a good charge. I planned to remove it, plug it into a charger and then pop it back in. Will this knacker the immobiliser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted December 9, 2002 Share Posted December 9, 2002 My experience with the Banner batteries is that once they've gone they've gone. That is to say they won't accept re-charging once flat. I had two go that way so bought a conditioner & no problems now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted December 9, 2002 Share Posted December 9, 2002 If any lead acid battery gets down to 67% charge, it'll probably die and will never accept charge again. If you have a Rover immobiliser, you can disconnect the battery with nothing untoward happening. When you connect it back up again, it'll work as before. I know this because my battery's been in and out a couple of dozen times in the past couple of months. I never give a toss whether my battery is connected or not. It'll charge up. Never had a failure of any electronic module. If the modules were that easily damaged, they wouldn't pass EU regulations for use on a car. You have to be able to jump start a car after all don't you? How do you do that with the battery disconnected? Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Edited by - V7 SLR on 9 Dec 2002 17:14:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 9, 2002 Share Posted December 9, 2002 Once a battery goes flat you often get a 'cell collapse' and it's kaput. I learned my lesson when I 'lost' my original battery by leaving it in the garage for a couple of months. I presume the blinking diode on the immobiliser gradually flattened it. It's a typical 'seven' problem because there are inevitably long periods in winter when the car doesn't get used. When I changed to the new one, my immobiliser (a Vecta) continued to work normally. I then purchased an 'Airflow' charger/conditioner from Caterham 2 years ago for about £30 and the car just sits there connected to it through the winter, starts readily in spring. I don't disconnect the battery from the car, just slacken off the caps (remember to re-tighten in spring - unless you have a sealed battery). There's also a set of LED's on it which tell you the charge level your battery is currently at. A good bit of kit and you can say goodbye to flat batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard K Posted December 12, 2002 Share Posted December 12, 2002 I have just bought a seven. It's a 1700cc X flow but the car has no battery. 'Yes I know I haven't heard the engine run but the car alone was worth the money and I trust the person who sold it to me'. What battery do you all recommend. Is the Banner the only way to go or can I purchase one from the local car spares chain. Can someone tell me the specification. amp hours, crank something or other etc. Thanks Richard 'See you on the road in the summer !' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted December 12, 2002 Share Posted December 12, 2002 Nig, It is not that "any lead acid battery" shoudl not be deep discharged. There are proper deep discharge designs, but they have to be much bigger for any given current draw. Caravans and boats use deep discharge lead acid batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted December 12, 2002 Share Posted December 12, 2002 How was you going to take the battery into the house without diconecting it? T.F@O.F www.p1spot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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