johnv Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 yes, that looks wrong .. I think the bang was a red herring, the rest of the bits look fine .. here's mine , it's just been flat floored at PGM who I can highly recommend, though a bit far from you Edited by - johnv on 11 Jun 2013 18:51:25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Botton link needs to be level with ground at best. Start from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnv Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 you need BIO!! yhm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Hehe I thought mine was running low! You can use it as a roadsweeper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-M Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Quoting revilla: Hehe I thought mine was running low! You can use it as a roadsweeper Sounds like I probably have been! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Level is best but you need 70mm clearance under the sump for road driving John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-M Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 So here's where I've got to: Bought C spanners, attempted to adjust the front suspension. On turning the adjuster rings the entire screw thread part of the damper also rotates, I'm presuming this is not a good thing. So...any suggestions on how to unstick them? There are 2 "flat spots" at the bottom end of the threaded section - so I'm thinking I could go out and by a "bloody great big spanner" to give me some counter leverage. That and / or WD40 applied to the thread are the only things I could come up with. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 The two rings lock together to stop them moving accidentally. You need to unlock them by turning them in opposite directions with two spanners. Turn them so the bottom one screws downwards and the top one moves upwards until they are unlocked, then screw the bottom one down and out of the way while adjusting using the top one, then lock them together again. You shouldn't need to hold the sleeve still if you turn them against each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-M Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 that'll do it - I'll be needing another C spanner then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Sometimes you can get away with locking a stubby screwdriver into one of the holes in one ring instead of a c spanner but depends how right they are. Make sure it's a good fit and use in such a way as not to hurt yourself if it slips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnockoff Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 If you are a complete novice at DIY maintainance you might find it useful to take close up photos of what you intend to work on before you start so that if you get in a muddle you have some idea what the thing looked like. I have got myself in pickles with bits before and couldn't remember how things were before I started. Saves a lot of angst. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-M Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 thanks Brian, I'll do that :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mostro Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 /hijack I'm [also a newbie and] concerned about ground clearance too - why does some adjustable suspension have the threaded end & platforms at the top (as per johnv) and some at the bottom end (like Andy's) ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 14, 2013 Member Share Posted June 14, 2013 What Brian says. Consider sticking the camera on a tripod so it's easy to take lots of photos. Like the old trick of dismantling into an egg box etc. I always think I'couldn't possibly forget the sequence, then something else crops up etc... Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Quoting Mostro: /hijack I'm [also a newbie and] concerned about ground clearance too - why does some adjustable suspension have the threaded end & platforms at the top (as per johnv) and some at the bottom end (like Andy's) ?? Choice. Putting the dampers 'upside down' reduces unsprung weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-M Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Quoting Mostro: /hijack I'm [also a newbie and] concerned about ground clearance too - why does some adjustable suspension have the threaded end & platforms at the top (as per johnv) and some at the bottom end (like Andy's) ?? I'm going to stick my neck out and say it's because mine is fitted with the bogo CC adjustable Bilstein's and Johny has some sort of super duper upgraded aftermarket ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-M Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 how's about that, proved wrong before I even answered! Can all adjustables be inverted then? If that's the case why aren't they installed that way be default since reducing unsprung weight is a good thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmmarsh Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Andy Can you get a shot of the front of your sump? It still sounds like a cats eye strike, particularly as you are riding so low. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 why aren't they installed that way be default since reducing unsprung weight is a good thing? 'Cos some can't be used upside-down... they have to be manufactured to work that way, and only the expensive ones are... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luegonigel Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Sigma 150 SV exhaust cut out photos - wheels and tyres 195 x 45 x 15 CR500 - height under sump now 105mm, sump relatively level (side to side), engine canted over a bit with the mounts in as new condition - with the front Bilsteins screwed pretty much right up, the height under the chassis rails under the back tube of the front wishbone is 145mm - can't see how you can get 150 to 190 under the front chassis rails with Bilsteins as it says in the manual page 69. - the rear has been adjusted up to 165 ish where the rear A frame joins the chassis, the manual calls for 15mm difference front to back. Took quite a bit of faffing to get it somewhere near and equal at both sides - all measurements without anyone in the car. - top tip for changing passenger side engine mount is (with car on axle stands and engine with jack underneath it), try the bolts in the engine block to make sure they screw in easily by fingers, put the chassis bolt of the new mount in first, this allows the engine and mount bolts to be lined up easily using the jack, put the mount bolts in nearly all the way by fingers, may need to jiggle the jack up and down a bit, if this is not done and the engine rests on the bolts, good chance of stripping the threads. For the top bolt into the engine, buy a 150mm long 6mm Allen key (I happened to have one otherwise I wouldn't have known) this allows you to get your hands on it from the top of the engine as it stick out from under the induction system. - 6 hours work doing the engine mount and playing about with the suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-M Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 thanks again all. Steve, I'll get a shot of the sump and post it asap (most likely tomorrow evening) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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