which live axle springs and dampers ?

[Jason Plato]

for a mate who runs a zetec

 

he's currently on 15 year old Leda.

 

anyone done the Nitron route ?

 

or other thoughts ?. I have run AVO's on a dedion and found them to be variable in quality .

 

🤔

[James_Russell]

I've driven a LA car on standard 'Spax' dampers and it was lovely

[philwaters]

Running Protech dampers on my LA with a zetec. springs are 250 to 300lb on the front and 115lb rears.

[Phil B]

Dave,

 

I am in a similar situation to your mate, old spax on the front, LEDA on the rear of a zetec powered LA and looking for new dampers/springs all round as part of the winter rebuild when I plan to go wide track.

 

Budget dictates AVO or Protech single adjustables, but interested to hear recommendations either way.

 

Phil B

[Pezky]

Heading down the Nitron route on my LA car.

 

Nitrons can be specifically valved for the car. Obviously, rear mounting is different as stem/loop fitting but can be done.

 

Live axle car setup slightly more tricky as rear unsprung weight higher.

 

My Zetec engined car was only 10kg heavier than a K-series engined car!

[Neil66]

Quoting Dave Jackson: 

anyone done the Nitron route ? 🤔

Yes live axle, zetec & Nitrons

 

Had a long discussion with Simon of Meteor and I went for 180/110lbs (F-R) - not too much up from standard 150/90 but this was because I prefer a more compliant suspension - went up from standard Spax setup.

 

To be brutally honest, the Spax were actually pretty darned good in back to back comparison, but the beauty of the Nitrons is adjustability (my corner weights / braking was sh1te: always locking up the right) & they're much more "creamy". Can't really describe it better... Bikers will understand ;-)

 

Edited for clarity & better link

 

Edited by - Neil66 on 23 Aug 2012 14:53:40

[elie boone]

I had Spax on my live axle, not the std one's but with 2 1/2" spring id they were really good, then i changed to Nitronand it wasn't that much better.

I have to admit that i had dampers from the first batch witch where not 100% suited to the 7 especially at the rear. the rears can be harsh on a sharp bump but are otherwise good, also i run a 5 link set upon the rear axle

 

I run 300/140 springs

 

You do need to make a bracket for the top rosejoint on the rear shocks, i used a old wheel stud to bolt this bracket to the chassis, a stud has a shallow head so that u loose minimal height.

[Neil66]

One thing I'd like to add is that the ball joint spacers for the lower double-shear mounts on all four corners required turning down to fit... When assembled, the assembly width was 100thou too wide for the suspension location brackets.

 

Spoke to Simon & he said just to file them. but I felt this was too much meat to keep even, so I took off 1.3mm from each spacer on a lathe I had access to, result was a perfect fit ;-)

 

 

[Neil66]

Quoting elie boone: 

You do need to make a bracket for the top rosejoint on the rear shocks, i used a old wheel stud to bolt this bracket to the chassis, a stud has a shallow head so that u loose minimal height.

Not any more, Simon supplies these, though they will need painting as they come in bare mild steel ;-)

 

ETA link

 

Edited by - Neil66 on 23 Aug 2012 15:07:29

[jonboylaw]

If anyone is interested, I have a set of Gaz adjustables and springs for a LA set up for sale. Would not be expensive, only done a few hundred miles.

I am now running AVO, 300lb front and 115lb rears, I have to keep the rear to the softest setting as the AVOs can be a little harsh.

 

 

[philwaters]

I have to keep the rear to the softest setting as the AVOs can be a little harsh.

 

Which is why I ended up changing to Protech's - I found the rear too skittish as it was always too hard. The Protech's range can be adjusted to suit - i.e you get x number of clicks, but if you want them softer than the default, or can change the range to give you softer settings, or I guess harder as well. I have found that around 4 clicks on mine is about right. Much more compliant ride.