Dave McCulloch Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 I need to remove my scuttle panel soon, and would like to use rivnuts to reattach the scuttle to the vertical panel in the engine bay. What type and size of rivnuts should I be using? I'm guessing aluminium and 4mm? And where's the best place to get them from. How do I avoid a gap between the scuttle and vertical panel from the rivnut head? And finally I read on a post on here about using some sort of rubber washer to avoid the scuttle rattling - what type of washer is this and again where's the best place to get them from? Thanks Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Hi Dave I used M5 rivnuts and stainless dome head bolts but M4 would also be fine. I also used nylon washers to stop the paint getting damaged. I bought one of these and it's brilliant. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted February 26, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted February 26, 2011 I'm thinking about doing this, but having a gap to accommodate the rivnuts is putting me off. I purchased countersunk rivnuts, but there will still be a gap. I don't want to use silicon. I am tempted just to go back to pop rivets, as they were surprisingly quick to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Leave the scuttle and vertical panel connected and remove both together. Saves touching all those rivets and/or replacing them with rivnuts. Just need to remove anything fixed to/through the panel which will include those around the steering column. Also stops the scuttle flexing loads when off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted February 27, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted February 27, 2011 Just need to remove anything fixed to/through the panel which will include those around the steering column. Removing steering column, wiring loom!!!!!!, washer tube, speedo cable, heater control, inertia switch, power feed leads etc. Then reapplying silicon to seal!! That sounds like hours of work compared with 10 mins drilling out pop rivets. I've decided I'll stick with the rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Simon Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Here's what you are looking for. Knurled nut inserts remain flush with the front surface of a panel when installed. If you look closely, you'll find these are the type of nutserts that Caterham uses throughout the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Paul, Steering column doesn't need to be removed nor does the wiring loom. Vertical Panel (VP) has a slot which goes over the steering column. No cables pass through the VP on my car (not built by me). Most everything else is attached using3M dual lock. No heater and no sillycone sealant. So for some the first removal may be a more lengthy exercise but if put back right it takes just 10 minutes to remove in the future 😬. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted February 27, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted February 27, 2011 Steve Clearly our cars are very different.To be fair it's not the main wiring loom that goes through the panel, but plenty of other bits like speedo cable, oil pressure gauge pipe etc. not to mention immobiliser, fuse box and various other bits fixed to the panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I wouldn't consider not having the scuttle top fixed with rivnuts now. I can have the top off along with the screen in 15 mins flat and the only wiring I have to touch is the heated screen. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McCulloch Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 OK, thanks guys. My car has also has a fair few things bolted to, or going through the vertical panel, so I really don't want to be having to remove that with the scuttle. So as for source of rivnuts, I assume Caterham is as good as anywhere for the (fairly) flush fitting ones? (as the website Bob linked to looks like a US site). Jason - thanks for the recommendation for the rivnut tool - I'll get myself one of those. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted February 28, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted February 28, 2011 For rivnuts and rivnut guns try Car Builder Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred_gustafsson Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I used 4mm rivnuts for mine and there is no gap to speak of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy couchman Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Ditto - small rivnuts and stainless steel cap head bolts. Only takes a few mins to undo them all, it looks good and no rattles or gaps. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted February 28, 2011 Leadership Team Share Posted February 28, 2011 M4 rivnuts need a hole of around 6.5mm so I came up with an alternative solution ..... - Make up a curved strip of ally the same shape as the edge of the bulkhead panel, around 15mm wide (I happened to have the old bulkhead when I renewed it so cheated a little 😬) - Into this fit the 24 x M4 rivnuts. - Silicone/Sikaflex this to the rear of the existing bulkhead, lining up using M4 bolts through the original bulkhead holes and into the new ally strip. - Job done, rivnuts fitted, no flanges, no drilling out the bulkhead Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 4mm rivnuts for me and only 12 of them. As I had a new undrilled scuttle I decided I'd only drill 12 holes and that is plenty. No silicone anywhere, no rattles and the scuttle takes 5-10 mins to remove with Brooklands screens still attached Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angus Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 What do people do with a battery master switch fitted ? (In the normal place inside the windscreen stantion). Has anyone got a neat solution that avoids having to disconnect and unbolt it each time you want to remove the scuttle ? Angus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I can remove my scuttle in 10 minutes with the backplate still riveted to it. Unbolt heater (but leave it in place), remove bolts holding steering bush, fusebox, immobiliser, disconnect inertia switch and windscreen wires, remove 2 poppers on the top, drill out 2 rivets on the sides, undo heater control cable at heater, unbolt scuttle and lift away. It really is easy, I wouldn't fancy drilling out all those rivets and putting rivnuts back in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Quoting Angus: What do people do with a battery master switch fitted ? (In the normal place inside the windscreen stantion). Has anyone got a neat solution that avoids having to disconnect and unbolt it each time you want to remove the scuttle ? Angus Angus I used the Cartek switch and I think it's a brilliant piece of kit. It only has two spades to the switch outside the car so easy to pull apart when the scuttle comes off. Also I wasn't happy with unfused 12v wires going to the normal CC isolator switch, the Cartek uses low current wires to the switch (button). If the Cartek unit fails then 5 mins with a 10mm and 13mm spanners will get the car going. Take alook at page five of my build thread jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angus Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I used the Cartek switch It looks a pretty neat unit and your installation is vey good. I would need a new scuttle though for the different hole pattern. Do you know if it passes racing regs ? Angus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Angus thanks yes the Cartek is approved. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now