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Battery Master Switch


myothercarsa2cv

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The non-FIA ones are a bit crappy in terms of quality. I'd buy an FIA approved one and then decide how to wire it.

 

The other thing you can do is run your alternator output to the battery side of the switch, which is how I wired my car.

 

 

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The problem with the cheaper one is that you can blow a diode in the alternator if you use it to turn the engine off. Although probably not a good idea to turn the engine off with either except in an emergency.

Mine is mainly used to stop the immobiliser draining the battery when the car is parked up.

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Thanks all. I think for £7.50, if it's a bit carppy, it's not the end of the world *wink*

 

11884, same reason I'm thinking of getting one. It's parked up for sometimes weeks between use, and the immobiliser is a pain. Don't really want to remove the immobiliser, as it would make the car rather easier to steal, and I reckon I'm up to fitting a BMS. I wouldn't use it to turn the engine off, just stop the drain!

 

Perhaps something like this might be more reliable?

 

John

_________________________

 

myothercarsa2cv

Bugsy: '82 2cv6 😬

Talloulah '08 1.6K Classic

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I don't have key ignition, and I only have a Master Switch to turn the engine on/off.

 

I've never had a problem re alternator but I do have the resistor on the master switch, and I always turn the headlights on just before turning the engine off(helps with current drain).

 

 

 

White road legal 2.0 HPC VX race car - Now all shiney and new 😬

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If you don't have a battery conditioner connected when the car is left, I would consider something like one of these battery disconnection switches Others are available - this is the 1st one I found with Google.

 

Easy to fit, no need for holes in the scuttle, no extra cabling to fail. Yes, you have to take the bonnet off to get to it, but is that so bad? *tongue*

 

cheers,

 

Darren.

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