myothercarsa2cv Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 So. If I fit one, do I need the fancy FIA version, with the extra wiring, or would a bog standard one do? What's the benefit of the extra wiring? Does it allow the immobiliser to keep going, and still drain the battery? John _________________________ myothercarsa2cv Bugsy: '82 2cv6 😬 Talloulah '08 1.6K Classic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 John, if you're only using it to isolate the battery when garaged (ie not as an emergency cut-off when racing) then the bog standard one will be fine. Just remember to turn off engine before turning off isolator. Ian - Slightly Vider SVelte SuperVeloce model 😬 - Joint AR for North Kent - Area details and calendar here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 Thanks Ian! Not going to race, so cheap one it is! To CBS! John _________________________ myothercarsa2cv Bugsy: '82 2cv6 😬 Talloulah '08 1.6K Classic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 The non-FIA ones are a bit crappy in terms of quality. I'd buy an FIA approved one and then decide how to wire it. The other thing you can do is run your alternator output to the battery side of the switch, which is how I wired my car.  Full Terms and Conditions of this post can be read here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 Unless you really need one I would not bother to fit either version as they are known to be unreliable. I removed the cut out switch from my car. Mark D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 The problem with the cheaper one is that you can blow a diode in the alternator if you use it to turn the engine off. Although probably not a good idea to turn the engine off with either except in an emergency. Mine is mainly used to stop the immobiliser draining the battery when the car is parked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 Thanks all. I think for £7.50, if it's a bit carppy, it's not the end of the world  11884, same reason I'm thinking of getting one. It's parked up for sometimes weeks between use, and the immobiliser is a pain. Don't really want to remove the immobiliser, as it would make the car rather easier to steal, and I reckon I'm up to fitting a BMS. I wouldn't use it to turn the engine off, just stop the drain! Perhaps something like this might be more reliable? John _________________________ myothercarsa2cv Bugsy: '82 2cv6 😬 Talloulah '08 1.6K Classic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I use one of the cheaper ones, and have done so for several years, without problems. Easy and cheap to chsange in case of problems  Ian - Slightly Vider SVelte SuperVeloce model 😬 - Joint AR for North Kent - Area details and calendar here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_h Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I don't have key ignition, and I only have a Master Switch to turn the engine on/off.  I've never had a problem re alternator but I do have the resistor on the master switch, and I always turn the headlights on just before turning the engine off(helps with current drain).   White road legal 2.0 HPC VX race car - Now all shiney and new 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Hi John, I've a proper CC-supplied FIA switch, complete with cables, that you can have for £25. My car already has one fitted, so I don't need this one anymore. Cheers - Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative bluenose Posted December 6, 2010 Area Representative Share Posted December 6, 2010 Car Builder Solutions do the exact same one as Caterham supply for £20. I have one fitted to my car. here   Lava Orange Caterham Blackbird  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thread gone full circle ... that's the same as the one in John's first post !! Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 If you don't have a battery conditioner connected when the car is left, I would consider something like one of these battery disconnection switches Others are available - this is the 1st one I found with Google. Easy to fit, no need for holes in the scuttle, no extra cabling to fail. Yes, you have to take the bonnet off to get to it, but is that so bad?  cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 as above, not on the CSR but on the Quattro which also kills the battery in about 2 weeks, I have one of these and at least on the Caterham you dont have the central locking to work around. Works really well and is quick and simple to fit, just don't fit the bypass wire and fuse or battery will still go flat 😬 Tim CSR 200 Aztec and Black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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