mark not max Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I am seeking help on two fronts. My VX broke down for the first time last night. Firstly please can someone let me know where I can source an oil pressure relief valve for my VX 2.0 16v and the part number. My original valve sticks occasionally and I hate to see pressure above 6 bar. My second problem is a total loss of power. It has happen once last week but last night the engine restarted on three cylinders and I was soon stranded on the side of the road again. After the engine cooled for an hour it restarted on all four and I limped home (followed by a friendly AA man ). On the first occasion I was out for a blat for about 70 miles, the car was parked for an hour or so and around 20 minutes into the trip home, when the engine was at a constant 4000rpm, I lost power. Extra throttle had an initial minimal effect, but soon the car ground to a halt with the engine still running. Spark plugs were changed yesterday afternoon, three of which were in tip top condition and the other slightly sooty. The distributor seems ok showing no sign of arching. Last night my blat out was around 75 miles. The car sat for little over an hour and on the way home whilst on a twisty ‘A’ road with mixed revs and a range of gears the power dropped in and out. I managed to limp on for 20 miles but when the car started to run on three cylinders and lacked the power to do 20mph I had to stop. The AA chap thought it could be the crank sensor but I am wondering what needs to be changed first! Your help is appreciated Edited by - Mark not Max on 28 Jun 2009 20:04:42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_h Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 first, ensure the crank sensor cable is not run along side the ht leads. I run mine above the spark plug cover. Second, it sound like the coil pack breaking down. Either find someone to swap with as a test or buy a new one. Third, is it always the same cylinder that's missing? try changine the HT leads. Hope this helps. Cheers, Andy White road legal 2.0 HPC VX race car - stolen with trailer 27/03/09 ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wilcx Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Mark - you'd be hard pushed to better QED for all things XE......they must know their stuff 'cause they also support the wonderful K Series....QED.... As for engine - it does seem to point to a sensor - I assume you have a 3D ECU and if duff and not picking it will not know what the engine is trying to do and have the effect of not advancing the timing accordingly. I assume as a minimum there will be a Crank Sensor and a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - possibly also a cam sensor but that will depned on what ECU you are running. Start by checking for obvious damage to wiring and connectors - if all else fails your friendly RRoad Man will be able to test that each sensor is picking up and sending a signal to the ECU....... Other (less likely causes) could be:- 1. aeration of the fuel in the Carbs - have you had the Webers off the car recently.....they can be sensitive to mounting....picking up heat and vibration. 2. duff HT Lead 3. duff coil 4. duff electical connector in the engine loom *confused*Call if you would like a hand - Rgds G PS - Did Jo enjoy her Scampi "n" Chips. My Winter '08 Upgrade was to a screaming DVA K05. www.geoffwilcoxphotography.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 SBD can supply an oil pressure relief valve www.sbdev.co.uk. Are you sure its the oprv and not a duff oil pressure gauge sender? You might get one from a Vauxhall dealer. Ask for a '91 Astra 2 litre 16 valve As you have a dizzy I guess you're on carbs. As well as ignition related bits I'd also check the fuel pump. The Facit solid state pumps can go intermittent leading to low or no fuel pressure. If you can hear it ticking its probably ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark not max Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Andy - thanks - new HT leads are on my list. Geoff - may need to enlist the support of your redtop friend. Can't give Stan another K series! ps whilst the food was very good, not enough scampi and her Snoopy cloud followed her - it rained last night in Cromer! Paul - Fuel pump is fine. I have seen poor reports of the SBD orv. Do you use one? Thanks all for your responses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Mark I used an SBD orv for years before I went drysump and never had any problems with it although I have heard stories of them sticking. The theory is that the piston is made of a soft material and will 'absorb' any bits of carp that might find their way there and otherwise cause it to stick. I think they might also sell you the standard piston so if all else fails they'd be worth a try. I hope you solve your main problem. I suppose another possibility is that the ecu goes faulty when it gets hot. Like the others, I'd certainly try the crank sensor first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 The OPRV is officially no longer available through GM dealers. I had problems getting consistant pressure with the SBD one. You could try an evening polishing your piston with something like Autosol polish or source one from a scrap engine. Certainly worth eliminating the sensor first - I went through 3 in 2 years. On the running point I can only concur with the others, coilpack, crank sensor, HT leads & fuel pump as starting points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 i had a faulty temp sensor on my HPC that was telling my DTA ECU that the engine was over heating, it had been mapped to safely cut the engine in this condition, this was found by QED reading the last running map on the ECU. it clearly showed the ECU had thought the engine was very hot, it wasnt. a simple fix of new sender around £15. Kevin R black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark not max Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Problem has been isolated to the fuel tank not breathing. Has anyone else had to drill a hole in their fuel cap to solve this? The tank is circa 1997 and I am not aware that it has any vent. I fitted a new filler neck last year - I am thinking that previously the tank was breathing through the old filler neck which had perished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 When I fitted an (early) aero style cap I drilled a breather .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiny Tim Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Mark, I had exactly the same problem on my VX HPC. I have an aero cap and have bought an overhaul kit from Newton Equipment who are the original manufacturer of the aero fuel caps. It seems to be ok now but I am still considering drilling a hole just to be sure. Seven Goes Mad in Dorset Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavic82 Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 I put a seperate vent with one way valve in mine. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Hi Mark, Have you solved your orv problem yet? I ask as I have the same problem. Is the orv easily accessible and straightforward to remove/replace. Someone said the orv may be inside the oil pump but think he was just generalising. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 The OPRV is very easy to access. It's on the lower front side on the block (nearside from memory). It's a large headed plug/bolt. Unscrew it and the plunger/piston and spring will pop out.Replacing it is an 🙆🏻 and a swearing exercise because you have to put pressure on the plug and compress the spring and turn the plug to engage the thread all at an awkward angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark not max Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Dave AVES is spot on. My OPRV has been taken out and cleaned up, but it is not perfect. I intend to source a replacement but after Sunday I have a more pressing issue with the clutch. Best of luck with yours Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Thanks for the info AVES. Very good to know, though ever so slightly worried about your PITA to fit comment. My mechanical/technical skill and knowledge usually runs out after 'Step 1. Undo bolt' and find myself stranded and needing help 😬 Always willing to have a go though , so I may have a look over the weekend. Should I expect any loss/seepage of oil when I take the OPRV out? Mark - did you remove/fit yourself. Did you find in the PITA that AVES says it is? Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark not max Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Dave I'd seen AVES post before, so I cheated. I arranged for an oil change at a recent MOT and the OPRV was taken out then. Much easier with the 7 on a ramp I am sure. All the best Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I'm talking straightforward but involving swearing rather than mechanically complex - This is coming from the man that set fire to his battery whilst fitting a removable steering column........... 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 AVES - that's quite an impressive achievement given the two components are seemingly unrelated or connected. I trying but struggling to work out what sort of sequence of events lead to that To confirm then, before I start undoing bolts - do I need to drain the engine of oil or, if I don't, will there be some loss of oil when I remiove the OPRV? cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Best to do it with the engine not running........ 😳 The oil will be in the sump so nothing major will come out - There will be a dribble but nothing of great merit. Then try polishing the piston with something mildly abrasive like Autosol. It's actually quite easy to set fire to a VX tinkering with the steering. The column runs very close to the live terminal on the starter motor. Once you've created that short.............. 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Engine not running. yep figured that one out Starter motor live terminal - yes I see now. bet that isn't a mistake you do twice eh Cheers though Aves, thanks for the info, all very useful and most helpful Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 If the above does not/has not fixed it, check the bolts securing the venturi's inside the carbs. The venturi has to be aligned as to allow fule to flow to the main jet. If the venturi revolves, no fuel, hence it gives precisely the symptom you have described. I had this problem on "The Morgan". Took weeks to find. Also be careful with a parts supplier named above (not SBD) I am bound by an NDA from passing opinion, but Aves handled my legal case against them. Perhaps he has something to say? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Ahhhh ❗ (Wipes misty eye) Just like the good old days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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