Lotus Boy

My experience of Toyo T1Rs has been nothing but appalling. I think some have commented that the compounds in later tyres have had to change making them, in my experience, borderline lethal. No grip, no confidence when braking etc. i quickly switched to Toyo R1R and have never looked back, confidence restored. Terrific tyre. Please don't be tempted by the cheap cost of T1Rs, a real false economy.

Sounds like you need the Jack Webb Motorsport lithium batteries. Just got one myself. https://jackwebbmotorsport.co.uk/LIFEP04-Lithium-Batteries-c42278020 Cheers David

Jeez, not another decent tyre discontinued :-( I got mine in 2018 so hopefully I'm ok for some years ahead (until I get a puncture) ...and T1-Rs are cheap for a very good reason ;-)

I agree Tony, never got on with them at all. Hateful tyres. Tried running them as low as 16psi but couldn't get them to work and in the damp I thought they were lethal, giving very little confidence when braking. Switched to R1-R and confidence was restored ten-fold. Sorry, appreciate this doen't help the OP, hope you get on well with them.

Hi Tom, sorry to drag this thread up but do you have measurements on your pre96 damper lengths open with the extension piece added? Looking for centre of top eye to centre of bottom eye. Thanks David

Hi, As per the subject, can anyone give me the eye to eye damper length (open) for front widetrack suspension on a pre 96 chassis - this is where the top damper eye and top rear wishbone mount share the same 1/2" bolt. Thanks, David

Ian, Is that normal for all Caterhams to need the top eye extenders? i have the pre96 chassis where the damper uses the same bolt as the top rear wishbone mount.

Blimey Ian, that seems good value. Not much more money than having my billies refurbished, though I guess the ProTech aren't adjustable platforms?

What sort of money are we talking for a set of four ProTech spring and damper set ups? Thanks, David

Yes these are what as referred to, I think, as the original S Type seats. I have them too. Great seats as the three lower pads on the back of the seat are adjustable so you can move them to suit your lumbar preference. They were an upgrade option in the early nineties before Caterham moved to the more commonly known S Type seats that are still fitted today. I'd be amazed if you could buy them new today but maybe put a wanted ad on the forum - perhaps someone has switched to tillets and have these surplus to needs?? Cheers David

A good little write up that and good to know the size of the oil pick up pipe o-ring. I'll change that next time - thank you! I have a 2.0VX and have changed the baffle eight or nine times. I change the foam baffle every two years. I remember when Caterham used to charge £14 each for them. £50 is a joke. You were lucky, when I bought my car, it was already ten years old and the previous owner knew nothing of the foam baffle. When the sump was dropped I was greeted with what looked like crispy seaweed. So thankful that none made its way up the pick up and blocked the oil ways. Had to flush the engine though. I also use the threaded rod trick to help line everything up and keep the gaskets in place but hadn't thought of the clothes pegs! Great solution and better than my 'tin of paint under the sump' approach! I was lucky enough a couple of years ago to get hold of a spare sump however the previous owner had installed metal baffles held on with brackets drilled through the sump. Not the most elegant solution but I think I will try that when my car goes back on the road later this year, rather than using the foam sump. I knew it was common practice to throw away the foam on a K-series but didn't think it advisable on a VX. Thanks, David

Thanks Elie. I found another one which appears to be in perfect condition. Also replacing the CRB along with new ARP bolts

All sorted now. Found a better mint condition one on eBay. Cheers David

Thanks everyone. I spoke to Phil and Road and Race and he recommended standard VX flat flywheel and the helix organic clutch and heavy duty cover, so that’s what I’m going for. Thanks, David

Hi Dave. Unfortunately the 558 Number is the part number for the pot flywheel So no good for me I’m afraid. Thanks for replying though. 7 wonders - yes that’s the one. May go for that. Cheers David

Hi, Does anyone have a standard OEM flat flywheel they no longer need from a VX 2 litre engine? Part no is R90285192 I believe. Thanks, David

Hi all, Having pulled my engine and gearbox from my car, I figured it would be sensible to replace the clutch. I have discovered I have the 'pot' flywheel type and it has been suggested that I replace it with the much lighter 'flat' type, to reduce inertia, which I want to do. So not exactly fitting a lightened flywheel as such but just replace with the OEM standard flat type which is lighter Questions are: 1. is it sensible to stick with the regular flat flywheel or look for an even lighter one? If so, can anyone recommend one? 2. Will I need to change my clutch cover as well? My clutch cover is very flat but I have seen other versions much deeper - which I am assuming is needed to fill the void created by the flat flywheel type. 3. Should I fit new flywheel bolts? 4. Should I replace anything else such as the CRB? Thanks, David

Hi Tim, Yes very easy to fit. You will need the escutcheons from Caterham as well. Offer the rest up to the door in situ so that you can identify the three rivets which will need to come out to fit the escutcheon. This will be the middle hole that the spike (under the armrest) will fix into and two on either side to locate it. Drill all three out rivets from the interior trim panel. Then slide the escutcheon down between the rubber trim and the sill protector. Either drill through the two outer rivet holes in situ (though I found the escutcheon quite difficult to drill through though my drillbit may have been a little blunt) or mark the holes in the escutcheon, remove and drill. Once drilled, relocate and rivet back in the two outer rivet holes to fix in place. You may need to drill the middle hole out a little more to help the spike fit in nicely. Then position, drill and fix the armrest to the door. Thundersports were very helpful with supplying the correct black plastic nuts and bolts if you need them. Really nice having the armrests - I feel it gives a bit more elbow room as you can rest your elbow further into the door. Cheers, David

Magic, will be great to see the pictures once done. Thanks.

That is fantastic to hear. Look forward to seeing some pics! Sevens and classics dong the work? What are your plans for the wheels? Can’t recall, did it have MBs or SLRs on it. Shame dymag are no more but wonder if they could be recreated. Anyway, terrific that another JPE is being saved and in the UK.

Essex Boy or Lotus Boy? Great to see you Dave and enjoyed the chat. Will ping those photos to you soon. Cheers David

Yes indeed, very jealous of your new purchase. Was it the dark green one with the windscreen? Look forward to some updates and what you plan to do with it. regards, David

47 different patterns!! Blimey

Not sure about Caterham but you could try SoftBits or Thundersports who both do them. Sure a chat with them will confirm what they can do. http://www.softbitsshop.co.uk/the-boot-cover-58-p.asp https://www.thundersport.co.uk/index.php/boots-covers/series-3/s3-boot-cover-mohair.html

Thanks Mrp - Thundersport very obligingly popped some in the post next day. Second question - when fitting the escutcheons, should I use aluminium rivets or can I use steel. I understand why I use ali ones on the bodywork but these rivets won't be in contact with the ali skin. (You've guessed it, I have steel ones at home but no ali ones at present). Also, what length - will 0.47" (11mm) be enough or should I use longer bearing in mind it goes through the side skin, rubber, sill protector and chassis? Thanks, David