Johnty Lyons Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 My eldest son is rebuilding his se7en aand it has a Mk1 Cortina 4 speed box with a hyd clutch. The box is well past its best and I would be keen to advise him to move to a Type 9 with what I understand is a long first. Question is do I try and get a box at a breakers and then get it upgraded or am I better to just buy a box outright [if so where] I've done very little with boxes over the years [run a six speed myself] so would be glad of any pointers or guidance The car will be used for Road rather than track and the power unit is a 1700 Std Caterham super sprint with a live axle back end Thanks in advance jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 JJ - I went through the BGH route - highly recommended. Basically, the cost of the upgrade will depend on the condition of the donor box. Mine had apparently 'led a hard life' (ex-Academy) and cost a moderate amount more than I'd been expecting. I can dig out the invoice if you'd like. You can buy a box direct from them as well. Bottom line is that donor-condition will determine the final cost... 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 Also ought to point out that I went for the full-house BGH option. 'Heavy Duty', long first, short fifth and (bone of contention) alloy top-plate with dipstick (I'd only requested a quote on that - but they went and built it anyway) 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiF Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Use SP Components. Could not recommend them enough. Used other gearbox manufacturers and he is tops . Give me a call if you want to know more. CA07BON has a modified SP box with long first. Truly excellent, plus the sevice RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Another for BGH, if you can get them a box from a scrappy to upgade are are sensible about what you go for it doesn't have to be too expensive. Like Myles I went for the full house option which does cost a bit more. The added bonus is they are just done the road from me 😬 not that this is much use in Ireland. Cheers Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted May 6, 2008 Author Share Posted May 6, 2008 I'll do the round of the scrappies what donor vehicle is best for correct shaft length and spline size 🤔 😶🌫️ jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 jj, I had a type 9 box upgraded to long first and was suprised how much of the gear cluster was replaced. While your at it, get them to fit a drain plug (about £20 extra) I know the K series engines require a long input shaft from a Siera XR4i, (hens teeth) but this may not be necessary with a Ford X flow. Also not sure which bell housing you require but I do know a std Sierra bellhousing is heavy! Doesn't the transmission tunnel have to be widened and the gear lever position moved to go from 4 to 5 speed on some chassis? Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave B Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 BGH every time They are very helpful and will listen to you and advise. Give them a try. Dave B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezky Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Brucey I don't think tunnel has to be widened, just some of the chassis rails cut out Have a look at the seven-up website, quite a lot of useful info. www.se7en-up.co.uk Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisHawkins Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 I have made a start on changing from a 4 speed to a 5, I plan to fit the new gearbox over the winter. I will need to modify the rear gearbox mount and have a 4 to 5 speed conversion kit from Brent Chiswick to do this. I plan on rebuilding the gearbox myself to keep the costs down and to teach my self about gearboxes. I will be getting a BGH kit to fit in it as the standard 2.0 litre ratios do not suit a seven. Most gear kits you see that change all of the ratios which means a new layshaft cluster, new input shaft and new mainshaft gears so its quite a lot of work, this picture hereshows the input shaft, layshaft with the 5th gear fitted on the far right and 1st,2nd, 3rd and 5th below. When you add in new bearings and seals the price does add up, this is all without replacing any worn parts. The input shaft will need to be a long one and this can only be changed by stripping the box right down as it will only come out once the layshaft or mainshaft is out (can't remember which one) you will also need a CC nose piece for the front of the box, these are a CC manufactured part and are not worth buying second hand here You will also need to get a spacer to go between the bellhousing and the gearbox again these are a CC part here. I brought a second hand 2.0 Litre spec Type 9 from ebay for £30 because I thought it would be worthwhile having one for part ex if nothing else and since I plan on changing all of the ratios it did not matter which flavour I sourced. So far I have stripped it down, its not a hard thing to do but you will need a hub puller to remove 5th gear from the layshaft and a press to remove the speedo drive gear from the mainshaft to enable you to remove 1st gear from the main shaft. Looking at the condition of the box I will probably replace the baulk rings mainly as they are out, the 1st/2nd Synchro hub, Layshaft and the reverse idle gear and shaft. So doing this as a cost saving exersize is becoming pointless and is now purely educational, although it is spreading the cost! Chris K93 AMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 I did as Chris did, a known box and final drive from a 1.8 sierra - stripped cleaned etc replaced seals gaskets rings bars and springs and popped a Tran X SCCR kit in their. All the bits are readily avaialble I used Steve @ SPC or alan @ t2t2 performance if you've got the time you will save a far bit of dosh. Alternatively Steve now offers a tall 1st box for I think 200 plus fitting, top guy, based in Redditch contacts in Lowflying, or Alan in Aberwystwyth (spelling ) you builds a lot of boxes for the rally guys over there SPC are the Quaife semi pro agents so all these kits come via him and both these guys know one another as there both ex Tran X ! Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 As Q102 says, you don't need to widen the transmission tunnel but you do need to cut the floor of the tunnel (sheeted over on the 4 speed) back to just behind, and including, the existing gearbox mounting crossmember. The kit I manufacture comprises a new fabrication which is rivetted to the tunnel sides and includes a new rear gearbox mounting crossmember which is positioned a little way back from the normal 4 speed jobby. The gearlever of the 5 speed is positioned further forward than the 4 sp but still falls nicely to hand. Apart from the normal tools required to take the engine/gearbox out, you additionally need a 4 1/2" angle grinder with metal cutting disc, a 4.2mm drill and a pop rivet gun. You will need to drill out some existing rivets before sliding in the new fabrication but the instructions I send with it should make everything reasonably clear I think. The entire job could easily be done in a weekend although you will need to get the prop shaft shortened or just buy a new one from CC. Again as Q102 says, there is a lot of info on the Se7en-Up site including pics of the conversion we carried out on his car. It's much easier to take an angle grinder to somebody elses pride and joy rather than your own! 😬 Brent (aka Arfur Nayo) 2.3 DURATEC SV You know when you've been AMMO'd 😬 R470.69 😬 Edited by - Brent Chiswick on 7 May 2008 09:02:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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