chris perry 1 Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Dear All, Am about to install a cigarette socket to run my gps in my seven. Have the necessary cigarette socket but confussed with the installation instructions. Physics was not my strongest subject at school! Im following the instructions here: http://www.sjmmarsh.f2s.com/Caterham/socket1.html My car, a 1600vx 8v does not have a spare slot in the cars main fuse box as shown in the instructions. Is it necessary to wire to the fuse box anyway given the cable has an inline fuse as it leaves the battery. Cant you just wire directly from the battery and inline fuse straight to the cigarette socket? Thanks in advance. Chris Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delbert Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Thought wiring straight off the battery was the "correct" thing to do, that way the battery conditioner will work as well. I stand to be corrected prefferably before I do exactly that Moving to Newark and yes I do know what its an anagram for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 I did this recently without any instructions available I simply connected it direct to the battery. I wanted to ensure it was powered 24/7 so that plugging in my Accumate would keep the battery happy. The inline fuse should take care of any problems should thye occur IMHO. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Mine's wired directly to the battery too, but as Steve mentioned, make sure you have an in-line fuse in the wire - small amperage too BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 IMHO The only time wiring direct to the battery could be seen as a problem is by competition scrutineers who would want it via the cut out switch if they spotted the direct wiring. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_C Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Mine is wired from the FIA switch with an inline fuse Cheers Tom FH54WLX - only the car supports ManU, honest! see here - UPDATED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Chris An in-line fuse wired directly to the battery is fine. If you only want to run your GPS, then a 1 amp fuse will be perfect. If you want to run, say, a battery charger through it then use a 10 amp fuse. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 This has been helpful for me as I will be doing the same soon, I will be running it to the battery, where should I go for an inline fuse and where should I go for the cable and what thickness? Do you then run it along the main loom that eventually comes up infront of the heater? BRG and Yellow nose VU06 XZX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_C Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Depends where you mount it James. Mine is in the bulkhead next to the fusebox, and the wire comes out of the back of it to a fuse holder cable tied to the ECU mount post. The wire is then cable tied to the main loom bundle across the engine bay. Cheers Tom FH54WLX - only the car supports ManU, honest! see here - UPDATED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andycox Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 remember that the fuse should not be rated above the current rating for the wire used otherwise the wire will burn out before the fuse Flying across the fens 😬 looking for an escape route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmmarsh Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Chris You don't really need to use the fusebox on the bulkhead if you do not have a spare slot so long as you have an in-line fuse. I did it because I was concerned about the environment under the bonnet corroding the fuse (15A) so I wrapped it in self-amalgamating tape. The fuse still works, is protected from the elements, but is a pain to replace. So I just added another fuse (10A this time) in the spare slot in my fusebox. In theory, in the event of a short or the socket being overloaded, the internal fuse should blow, which is a lot easier to replace. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 There are no spare fuses on my box so will need an inline. Where do you get these from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davef Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Any motor factor ought to be able to sell you an inline fuse - also Halfords stock them in their electrical bits section. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 James Maplin sell some suitable inline fuse holders if you have a store nearby. Otherwise, I think Halford stock them as well, but probably more expensive... I ran new wiring direct from the battery, through the wiring grommet ahead of the gearlever, then through an inline fuse to a 'race' connector (Maplin again) tie-wrapped to the ignitino key barrel. This is totally out of sight, and allows the battery conditioner to work whether or not the FIA key is out. You can also run any accessories form this, but obviously need the matching connector. Guy See some pictures of the build here. 9000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 The extension socket I bought already had an inline fuse as part of the wiring 😬 Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Is there any reason not to wire the 12v socket to the "always-on" side of the FIA switch? That way the wires are already the right side of the scuttle and it's not more stuff to disconnect when disconnecting the battery. Presumably it'd still work with the battery conditioner? stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Can't see why not. The cables to the FIA switch are heavy duty enough that's for sure. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Providing you use a suitable in-line fuse for safety, there's no problem electrically. I have no experience of whether this would meet track day rules or not though. Better check with someone who knows, ie: track days may require TOTAL isolation. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Chris - I've never been on a track day where they've insisted on an FIA switch - I think it's a race scrutineering thing, rather than a track day thing. I guess the options are either to wire to the 'always on' side of the FIA switch and bypass some of the functionality of the switch (ie, it's not going to turn ALL the electrics off), or to wire to the "switched" side and always leave the FIA switch turned on when charging. Presumably the charger could cope with either unless there was a significant voltage drop over the FIA switch? stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 There will be no voltage drop over the switch so either method is fine for charging. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Thanks - I guess it wouldn't be a great switch if there was. ta Chris stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7kjt Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 For mouting I put mine inside a small hobby box from Maplin and fixed it with d/s tape to the underside of the wiper bracket here. The inline fuse is contained within the box, piccie here though I've since downgraded the fuse and used thinwall 17Amp cable during the rebuild. Forgot to add, its wired direct to the battery, specifically for use with the battery conditioner. Kevin Thomas The 7 Gallery... with added BBCi Edited by - c7kjt on 31 May 2006 17:54:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Bit of a numpty question, which terminal goes to +ve, the one that feeds the centre on the "fag lighter" or the one that feeds the side contact???? Toe down, nose up the windscreen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7kjt Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 +ve in the centre, -ve on the side Kevin Thomas The 7 Gallery... with added BBCi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Thanks! Toe down, nose up the windscreen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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