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Grubbster

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Everything posted by Grubbster

  1. It's this one, highly recommended, not sure where the best price for it is though. http://www.tison.biz/product_info.php/neilsen-cordless-impact-wrench-24v-12in-drive-300nm-ion-ct3730-p-66489
  2. My wife got me a brilliant one for Christmas, it easily does wheel nuts and I recently used it to under the big hub nuts - which it managed! 2 batteries with it and they seem to last ages. It was certainly a handy tool to have when I completely stripped the rear of my car over the winter, made very quick work of undoing all the 19mm nuts and bolts!
  3. As I said I never fitted mine but I think mine is in accordance with the instructions from QED http://files.qedmotorsport.co.uk/k-series_qed_remote_thermostat_fitting.pdf but the text does say So I think that either option is valid?
  4. Callumskeat - mine was fitted by Tom New (New Techniques) not me - I look forward to seeing a picture of yours.
  5. Sounds odd Peter? Radius arm bolts on mine go from inside the car to out, then the arm goes on then a nut. The caphead sits in a recess on the inside. I can't visualise how it could be any different?
  6. For sale on behalf of a friend so please contact him rather than post on here. All parts removed from a low mileage 2013 Caterham Academy (metric S3) as part of an upgrade. Standard master brake cylinder £50 Please contact Stuart Hood if you are interested, he's near Finchampstead. scd.hood@btinternet.com or 07850 172550
  7. Some of you may remember that my 230 bhp K used to have the occasional problem on track days, sustained running at really high rpm would sometimes cause coolant to blow out of the expansion cap (even tthough temp indication seemed to be fine). Similar to Callumskeat I tried many things to fix it including a head gasket change (during an engine overhaul), fitted a PRRT, tried a new temp sensor but nothing seemed to work. Then a couple of years ago Tom New fitted a QED remote stat for me and <touching wood> it has been fine ever since. So it gets my vote! It's interesting that different solutions work for different cars - the K series must be a bit fickle, especially as the state of tune chages.
  8. Ah, so these are 2 single straps - 1 of which would convert a 4 point to a 5 point harness. To convert to 6 point you either need 2 straps that go to a spreader bar with a single harness buckle attachment point, or you need 2 single straps that do not have buckles on the attachment ends but sewn in webbing loops that loop onto the waist straps (at least this is what academy cars have).
  9. I recently asked the same question and the answer was East Coast Fibre Glass Supplies:- http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/c-924-big-head-bonding-fasteners.aspx £22.50 for 10 that was the best price I found.
  10. I recently changed mine - a 2003 car that has probably >25000 miles, many on track. I did is as a precaution (when I had the car in bits) but I don't think there was anything wrong with it. A right bugger of a job, I took a saw to it to get out and then ended up taking it elsewhere to have the new one fitted. A lot of effort. I wish I hadn't bothered! But yours is shot so you have no choice!
  11. If you have a BMW diff you should make sure the clonking isn't the dedion tube hitting the diff.
  12. The other type might do (they look like the ones I replaced on my 2003 car) but it doesn't say what thread they are, they might be the same, but the stainless ones look so much nicer :)
  13. The second link is what you need but also a set of cone washer type things that go on them - in effect it's a 2-part wheel nut.
  14. Original fit in the race cars will be heated as they have to pass IVA and be road legal but you're probably right about replacements, most likely they'll go for whatever is cheapest or available.
  15. I bet they have a few spare ones in the support truck for the racers (Academy and Roadsport), I wonder how they prioritise who gets them when supply is limited?
  16. Not sure but I think they will be OK, you might need to get the correct inserts that go in the bushes to suit your bolts (if they are different), but other than that I expect they are the same.
  17. Comments above are assuming it's a ford diff not BMW
  18. Ouch! That hurts to listen to on the video! There were quite a few issues in the past with whining diffs, some were fixed by having a rebuild by R&R but even that didn't sort it every time. Also, on some chassis the accuracy of where bushes were welded wasn't great and therefore the bushes end up squashed right over and it was thought this could transmit more of the diff noise through the chassis. I'd probably talk to Phil at R&R to see what he suggests, maybe a new crown wheel and pinion would improve things (there were some pretty low quality ones in the market a while back, genuine parts are better if they can be sourced)
  19. Grubbster

    Fluid leaks

    On mine the leak at the flange on the water rail turned out to be a pin hole in the weld on the flange - so no amount of replacing gaskets would have sorted it! Redline spotted it and fixed it for me.
  20. I bought a replacement gel battery from Powervamp recently, there is no club discount any longer. Ed told me the ebay price is it now and delivery is free to all.
  21. Good idea Mankee, this is what I'd try, you only need to separate them half an inch - maybe not even fully undo the bellhousing bolts so that they don't fully come apart.
  22. No spring washers (or any other washers) to be used under these cap head bolts, the assembly guide is correct.
  23. OLED is optional on the video vbox camera system, this is the vbox lap timer, looks like an OLED unit in its own right, good little system (but obviously no video recording) http://www.racelogic.co.uk/Store/product_images/f/206/VBOX_LapTimer_Right_Card__91204_std.jpg
  24. My Minno Max does have small raised edges along its length (it's an older one so they may have changed) so you wouldn't be able to hang over the side. It is 1705mm wide.
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