simon_h

The small connector is on the chassis harness on a Rover/MG. Caterham add that and the MFU wiring to the engine harness for the 7.

They may not be optimum but the kit gives a good result for a lower cost. The whole lot would come in at less cost than an Emerald on its own as far as I can remember. If someone wants to tinker with the car afterwards then its not the best for that I admit but it is worth considering if you arent going for every last horsepower.

RJ, If Gareth decides he doesnt want the engine loom I could be interested in it. Cheers, Simon

Lotus has a kit that contains a different exhaust cam pulley, a VVC 160 throttle body and a reflash of the EFI ecu. This gives a much better idle, starting and will help at MOT time. This is for the later WVTA cars ony and does not aply to the SVA ones, the emerald is then the only option. If you already have a vernier on the exhaust and large throttle as most of them have by now then the reflash is a cheaper option than an emerald. Mail me offline if you want to discuss further. They came with a standard 'long ratio' box but again a lot have had the shorter one fitted. The good thing is that all S2 Elise have the short box and they are easier to find in breakers than VVC S1 which is the only other volume production Elise with it fitted. Simon Edited by - Simon Hayward on 4 Oct 2006 08:37:06

He may have bought a starter kit with all those parts included. Although you would have thought he would keep the carbon and sell the GRP. Still, it seems a reasonable project if you could trace the original reg and avoid SVA.

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Tell him to make sure he a very good fitting screwdriver on the screw heads if he takes it off. They appear to be made of soft cheese and will round off very easily.

The idle valve on the Toyota throttle is held on by 3 black Phillips screws. He is looking at removing the valve insides which could end in tears. You can get to enough of the valve without having to undo these tamper proof fixings if he wants to clean it out. Simon

BTTT with price adjustments

One new K Series standard valve head. Machine ported, valve seats deshrouded, inlet opened up to fit VVC plenum or TB's. Complete with valves, tappets, springs, caps, standard cams (if required) etc. This is not assembled so would save work if used for a DVA porting job or could be fitted as is with SS cams to give a reasonable amount of power.

As the title says. EU2 or 3, doesnt matter. Cheers, Simon

Better not be as it was in the garage when I went out there this morning!!

Wiring loom is nothing like a Caterham one. ECU needs replacing unless its already had an Emerald fitted. Plus usual like sump, coolant pipes etc.

Scholar have a jig to hold the piston square to the press to do this. It seems to work ok, they did it with my old engines rods. I think it ruins the pins that are fitted as they have been nipped when the rods cooled onto them at first assembly. If you have new pins for the omegas then it will most likely be ok.

No idea Milo. They are as supplied by PTP.

16 solid followers for K Series. New and unused. Sold to Milo Pair K Series cams from 160 sport Elise. Hydraulic profile. Used for about 10000 miles, in good condition. £100 plus carriage. 4 new second rings for Omega pistons. £50 plus carriage. Cheers, Simon Edited by - Simon Hayward on 10 May 2006 08:26:08

Anyone got any type of EU3 K Series engine loom they dont need?? Doesnt matter if its standard or VVC. Cheers Simon

Has anyone changed their VVC loom for a non VVC one and got the old one laying around they dont need? I need the EU3 type, not the early one with a red and black plugs. Or has anyone got one I can borrow for a while for a donation to NTL so I can copy it and modify my MGf/Elise one? Cheers, Simon

Thats not a bad gain. As its mostly a road car then the torque would be good, the 1.6 is a little gutless down low, fine when you get going though. Probably wont notice the gain as much when its in VVC guise as I wont be going above 7200rpm. Its because I already have the Omegas that I am unsure. As you say if pistons are needed then its probably worth the risk. I doubt if the Pistal ones will wear out before 10k miles which would probably be ok. I saw them the other day and there isnt much to them I agree. All depends on how much I could get for the Omegas I guess.

Thanks for the info. It does appear that they are no more likely to fail than any other K. I had an Evo2 block in the last one I built and that is still going fine after a couple of thousand miles. I have no problem with the block mods at all and am doing that regardless. But, on these 240ish hp engines how much more are they giving than they did as a 1.8? If its that they were at 200hp then its probably worth the outlay, but I guess its the torque where the greatest gains will be found. I am after future proofing the engine tbh. It will have a ported head, Piper exhaust cam but retain VVC and a plenum for now. I may go solid cams and throttle bodies in the future but I dont want the aggro of pulling the bottom end apart again. I still have the 1.6ss engine in the car so its not like I'm taking the car off the road while I do this and I could store that one in case it fails when its done. Not that I think it will. Simon