swsambler

Thanks very useful.

I ran 13 inch wheels some 5 years ago, but stupidly sold them as I had 5 years in an OMS single seater. I should have held onto them. Oh! Well.

Very helpful, many thanks.

I am looking to change my 11 year old CR500 tyres on my 15inch rim Roadsport. The car has 280hp and I do a mixture of Hillclimbing and Road use. The current 195/45 R15 ( Dia 554mm Section 200mm) in Avon CR500 or ZZS/R seem to not be available anymore. My question is do the 195/50 R15 (Dia 577mm Section 201mm) fit under the cycle wings? Either Avon ZZS or Nankang AR1

13 or 15 inch?

Hi, Caterham wheels, black, 8 and 6 x 13

Hi, Yes, both bits plus nuts and bolts.

I have some race bits and pieces for sale as have moved on from sprinting my Roadsport SV to an OMS 2000M. A tillett B6 Carbon GRP seat would suit an SV. VGC. Complete with TR1 seat runner. All new ex vat £631. Looking for offers around £ 375. Set of wheels and tyres. 13 inch rims. ZZR A24 soft compound. With 4mm of tread. 215/55 and 185/55. New £1,274. Looking for offers around £850. WHEELS AND RIMS NOW SOLD Head restraint to suit FIA roll bar SKU79045. New £29. Looking for offers around £17. HEAD RESTRAINT NOW SOLD.

If you are interested I shall be in Wimbledon for the weekend of 23rd April and could deliver. If you are getting into racing I have a Tillet B6 Carbon GRP seat, head rest back plate, and crotch strap valid for 2016.

I have a set of these with ZZR A24 rubber.

What are the timings on the day please?

In response to your question....no apparent damage on old unit and green sensor working fine. Can only assume some signal breakdown in or from the old unit.

Had the same problem with my 2010 build 175 Roadsport. Speedo used to fluctuate and then go to zero above 50/60mph. It would then recover as speed dropped and continue to fluctuate. I tried all the clearance, cleaning, electrical continuity, mount flexing and pulse recomendations to no avail. Instantly cured by fitting new sender and lead. Good luck.

When I built my 2010 SV 175 Roadsport, I had a spongy pedal. This was cured by bleeding and persistently tapping the rear calipers with a soft head hammer. It took many bleed sessions to remove all of the air. I would pressurise with Eazibleed and tap then release and then repeat the procedure. Tiny air bubbles came out for a long time. My pedal has been rock hard since then even when sprinting and hillclimbing. Apparently it is due to the orientation of the rear Sierra caliper on the Caterham.

After much cleaning and adjusting I only managed a slight improvement with needle still fluctuating and eventually falling to zero around 70mph. All other components seem fine, castellated ring not slipping, bracket firm, gap set at 1mm etc. Took the plunge and replaced the sender unit at the rear axle. All now fixed and needle steady at all speeds.

I have a malfunctioning speedo. Below 60mph the speedo reads fine, there is a little fluctuation in the needle above 50mph and at 60mph the needle falls to zero and stays there. As the road speed falls below 60mph the needle springs back into life. I have checked the sender at the rear wheels and the toothed disc is clean and secure, the green light on the proximity sender flashes as the axle rotates. Any ideas?

Twice in a week, now I really am famous!

A post Yorkshire Big Breakfast (Malton Specialist Cars) lunch time carvery pit stop.

I have been discussing this with the MBE dealer in Yorkshire. He made the comment that this is often air bleeding into the exhaust before the Lambda sensor, thereby causing it to think it is running lean, causing the ECU to react by enrich ending the mixture. Suggest you check exhaust joints.

Filter cover now sold . Thanks for the interest.

Engine now sold. Thanks for all the interest.

Air filter cover now sold. Engine now sold. Thanks. All other items still available. The following items are offered for sale to help pay for a dose of upgradeitus: Roadsport 175 SV Components 1. Std. Coil over damper units (Fixed platform) – Front £118.00 As new 1,000 miles only 2. Std. Coil over damper units (Fixed platform) – Rear £142.00 As new 1,000 miles only 3. Duratec 2.0 ltr engine - £1,800.00 ono 175 hp Caterham ECU Single throttle, plenum chamber Modine cooler Alternator Drive belt and tensioner Wet sump (extra drilled sump plug for temp sensor) Flywheel (no clutch assembly) Excellent condition only 3,000 miles 4. Cosworth - Air filter cover – race - £250.00 As new unused Looks like Caterham part no. 35E058A 5. Wheels and tyres £300.00 2 off Anthracite 15 x 6 rims 195/45 15 CR500 tyres 3,000 miles only, tread circa 4 mm First Used April 2010 I am based in West Yorkshire so collection or local delivery would be ideal. Edited by - swsambler on 7 Mar 2013 21:57:14 Edited by - Swsambler on 10 Mar 2013 13:22:03

Just completed this mod with the help of Soft Bits for Sevens. 1. Fit petty strut 2. Measure from windscreen on top of scuttle to leading edge of petty strut, make sure tape is on a line from scuttle to rear cross bar at the top of boot lid behind seat. (Where the harness is bolted down). 3. At the point you have measured to on the petty strut check alignment with seat head rest, mine was in the middle of the headrest. 4. Remove petty strut and fit toneau. 5. Re measure using alignment with seat headrest and distance form windscreen. 6. Mark leading edge of petty strut hole and then draw an oval to the rear of the car from this point, allowing for the angle that the petty strut makes as it will go through the tonneau. approx circle plus 30% additional length in the direction of the rear of the car. This worked for me and SB for S did a neat job with a zip to the side of the car so that I can fit the cover when the strut is in place.

Have just wired in my new Omex Shift Lights. I have wired them to the back of the Rev counter with an in line fuse on the live feed. The LEDs are working on the control box, but as yet no sgift LED's showing! I am getting conflicting advice on the correct wire for the tach feed. I have laid out the wiring connections on the back of the tacho below. The codes are from the wiring diagram. OMEX RED DASH LIGHTS RH INDICATOR LH INDICATOR +'VE RED/WHITE WHITE/BLUE GREEN/WHITE GREEN/RED BLUE/YELLOW GREEN RW 98 WN 147 GW 129 GR123 NY177 G 79 UW 111 WB 154 WG 146 BW141 BU 153 B 37 BLUE/WHITE WHITE/BLACK WHITE/GREEN BLACK/WHITE BLACK/BLUE BLACK MAIN BEAM TACHO -'VE OMEX BLUE OMEX BLACK Can anybody say whether the tacho feed is actually WB154 or BW141? edited to say the table didn't quite line up . green +ve, black -'ve and currently WB154 as tacho feed. Edited by - swsambler on 28 Jan 2012 14:29:18

I am sure you will get loads of advice on this. It is a bit of a fiddle and I started the other way round with mine. The things to check are: 1. that the top bolt actually goes all the way through the diff casing often it doesn't, yours seems to be okay. 2. that you have got it centred in the car using the spacer washers. This is worth spending some time on and is a bit fiddly. Try grease or petroleum jelly to hold spacers together in a pack. I think the tolerance from the centre line is + or - 2mm. 3. The mountings do give but it is a case of getting as many bolts in as possible, even iff they are part way through. Personally I used a long thin screwdriver in the top mount and then put in the lower bolts, finally putting in the top bolt. Hope this helps. Four arms or two people is useful for this one.