swsambler

Let me know when you are going to put them up on e-bay.

Also, which springs and what spring rates?

How old and what condition?

I am competing in the Harewood Hillclimb Championship for the first time this year. Class 2b in my standard Roadsport SV 175, home built last year. Uprated front brakes and 14 inch wheels with Avon CR500 Tyres. So far have done the practice day 9 runs and the School day (highly recomended) 8 runs followed by my first competitive day last Sunday 17th April, 2 practiceand 4 timed. The class record is 59.74. My times started at 77 and are now down to 67.29. Reason for the post: I am running the CR 500's at 18psi cold. I have no understeer at all. Front anti roll bar standard red bush, no rear anti rollbar. Current technique is to leave the front tyre pressures alone, but keep adjusting rears back to 18 psi hot prior to next run. No tyre warmers allowed in hillclimbing and gap between runs can be long. Questions: 1. Any general advice? Apart from improve my lines AND BE BRAVE! 2. Are Yoko A048 softs gripieer than CR500's 3. Any pressure advice for CR500's I know from conmbined sector times that I can do low 66 seconds in current setup, if only I could drive properly! Class record is held by stripped out Westfield 2.261 litre Duratec (Simon Green). All in the name of speed!!! SWBO fully supportive and enjoying the fantastic paddock friendliness. *smile*

£96 for the suspension setup and print outs befors and after.

Good experience last week with Track Torque Racing, Tockwith, York. I had been looking for someone in the North East to do a 3 dimensional suspension check and found these guys. http://www.tracktorque.co.uk. Full print out of all settings both before and after. Next step Nitrons

Thank you for all the replies. The photograph of the single throttle and plenum arrangement is as per my Duratec 175. I will check that the axial spring, as shown in the photo, is in fact two coiled together. With a bit of luck the BARC Harewood practice day on 27th March and a trip to the Harewood school on 7th April should clear everything up before I turn wheels in anger. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

I am intending to enter my Roadsport 175, (Duratec 2.0l, 2010 self build), into a number of hillclimbs this year and in preparing the car have read that I may need two throttle return springs. Can any one confirm this? And if so are there any component /supplier recomendations and or instructions on where on the throttle linkage it might fit? Simon Roadsport 175 SV

My advice is go and sit in a car. I have a roadsport SV 175 with FIA bar and I have had to move the seat all the way back and move the pedals back to get under the line between the bar and the engine block. I am 6 foot tall. The issue for me was the adition of the crash helmet which put me above the line. I am now just under the line sitting on the seat tray and as far back as I can go. Every body is a different shape so get your helmet and try a car. Take the seat base out on leather seats to simulate tillets or a plastic tray. Also check the length of your arms to the wheel in the new position. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

I should also say that I am only a whisker over 6 foot tall. So I suspect others may encounter this problem. I was surprised how much height the helmet put on.

Continuing my preparations to sprint and hillclimb my car next season and have just sat in the car for the first time with my helmet on....Disaster, top of helmet is slightly above the line between the top ofthe FIA bar and the top of the windscreen. I know that there must be clearance (50mm) between top of the helmet and the line between the top of the rollbar and the nosecone/top of the forward end of the engine block,so know that I am way to high. When I sit in the car without helmet the clearance are fine. So to the solution: 1. I can lower the floor, long job and gains 40mm. (I think). 2. Buy a new high FIA bar from Cage (or other), then my roof won't fit. 3. Fit a tillett seat, don't know how much this gains. 4. Sit on the floor? Ideally I would like to keep my car as it is for road use, leather seats, standard weather protection and perhaps fit a race seat. Any advice welcome. Before accurate measurements looks like I need to find about 80mm! Bit fed up and have concluded that Caterham should discuss this type of issue when you are specifying a part race spec car. ☹️ Particularly when you spend so much time in their showroom trying to find the right car combination to buy. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

Thank you for the usual high quality support and ideas. I have investigated Bricol's suggestion and have gained 40mm, must have had it shoved right into the dash when I built it up earlier this year. Just had a great blat with full control. No need to move my hands on the wheel now. *smile*

Has anybody got experience of an aftermarket boss to bolt direct to the three bolt quick release boss for the momo sterring wheel. I am seeking a solution to bring the wheel away from the dash and closer to the driver. I have looked at the after market and there are plenty for the 6 bolt larger PCD steering wheels, but apparently none for the smaller PCD three bolt hub. I have checked with Demon Tweeks and they do not know of one. Any ideas? Simon Roadsport 175 SV

Survey completed. Are you going to publish the results? Have you registered as a Pat Pending.

Definitely the odometer and not the trip.

My new build Roadsport 175 has just gone through 1,000 miles on the odometer. The display has always had a leading "" in front of the mileage number from the beginning, i.e. 144 or 854 etc. I was driving in the Thirsk area on Friday pm and the odometer was approaching the 1,000 miles mark and when I next looked at it, it read "6", but the leading "" had gone. Since then the odometer has climbed steadily with miles covered. Anyone else experienced this or have an explanation of the ""? Simon Roadsport 175 SV

Just had my 175 Duratec's first service last Thursday at Caterham Midlands. They said the soft cut in on the rev limiter was 7,100 and the hard cut in 7,200. I questioned this as the owners manual said 7,600. They said the software ecu model was correct at 7,100 and 7,200. hope this helps. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

Success: Drove down to Caterham Midlands today to seek a solution. It took two hours to diagnose the fault, which turned out to be poor earthing of the ECU. Requiring a change of wiring at the ECU and re routing of the chassis earth at the alternator direct to the Battery! Following a first service I am now safely back in Yorkshire. The engine didn't miss a beat all the way, hurray. A big thanks to the Guys at Caterham Midlands (very entertaining workshop banter). Simon Roadsport 175 SV

Handbook...... you have a handbook? I wonder what that looks like. You read so many different pieces of advice on running in these days, from get in and go ( to avoid glazing the cylinder bores) to the original variable revs in stages building to a maximum over 1,500 miles. I have been using a range of revs up to 3,000 for the first 300 miles and then building to through 4,000 etc as I have gone on from there. Main thing I have concentrated on is not putting the engine under any major load so gentle as you go. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

Anyone got a voltage and rpm for the throttle position sensor? Duratec 175. I will be having a check of the usual wiring misdemeanors at lunch time. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

I have a new build roadsport 175. It has only 280 miles on the clock. Took it out last night for a first blast upto 6,000 rpm and no issues fabulous drive. Took it to work this morning and it has developed a hesitation which clears on acceleration. Filled up with fuel as thought it could be dirty fuel. No change and feels to be getting worse. Anyway made it to work, but then noticed that the exhaust is black, very sooty! Running too rich? Air blockage? Any ideas? Simon Roadsport 175 SV

My stud has an allen key way in it. So you stop the stud rotating with the allen key with a ring spanner on the nut at the same time. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

To thread use strimmer plastic cable and thread up the stay. Then attach wire using duck tape. Then push wire down the stay. ease the strimmer wire out as you go, but do not pull. The purpose of the strimmer wire is to guide the cable out of the hole at the bottom. Works for me every time. If you need to take the captive brass bolts out of the new repeater base, use a small socket with internal size slightly larger than bolt head to support the underside and tap with a hammer. Place socket in the vice and then base plate rests on top. This stops the thin base plate deforming. They pop out easily when supported in this way. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

With regard to the immobiliser there is a black wire running round the top of the ignition barrel. The first few time I had to touch the fob to the wire to get the immobilier to disarm. If the fuel pump primes (You will hear it quite clearly) then the immobilser is disabled. Simon Roadsport 175 SV

Success!!! I have been searching for some decent copper washers, (The halfords assorted box washers are too thin and do not have enough surface area), after much searching I ended up at my friendly Quickfit, they gave me two washers for free. They are thicker than the the standard ones with more surface area. Dimensions are as follows: ID 9mm, OD 15mm and Thickness just under 2mm. I cleaned them up with fine wet and dry by rubbing on a flat surface. Interesting that they did not initially clean up evenly, i.e. not flat. I then followed the heating plan. Cherry red in the blow lamp and then immediately quench in water. I then rubbed dry all over o clean up. I inspected the AP caliper at the interface, but this surface was clean and flat with no paint overun. Th ID clearance on the washer was very tight on the male to male adapter with the washer having to be threaded on at the start. Making sure that I had the male to male adapter the right way round. (More thread turns on the caliper side, the thread is a good fit, if you get it the wrong way round the adapter feels wobbly as you wind it in. With reference to the AP web site I then torqued the adapter and washer up to 25 Nm. Fitted the braided brake line and then bled the brakes on both innner and outer bleed screws, tapping the caliper as I progressed. The bleed screws were then torqued back down to 15Nm. It is now 4 hours later and there is no sign of a weep. The key appears to be a good flat tempered washer of the right dimensions torqued up to the right setting. Fingers crossed and time for a GIn and Tonic, the sun must be over the yard arm somewhere. Thanks for all the helpful comments as usual. Simon Roadsport 175 SV