Shad

Kudos to everyone posting in this thread. Just fitted a new tank and was (reluctantly) contemplating the cost of a new filler neck and cap to suit, but if moving the tank forward/down is the way around this (maybe with the honeycomb right at the back too) then happy days

What Dave said. The slides you didn't want to initiate were just from too much throttle too early. The spins were because you didn't get off the gas earlier enough, as well as (in some cases) not applying enough opposite lock. I don't think this is really about car set up, yet. Take a look at my vid from last year: You should be able to hear me give it a prod of throttle on entry or near the apex, then get out of it almost completely once the car has started to slide. I only reintroduce the throttle when the car has settled into its slide, so I can hold the angle (or increase it ). Finally, don't be afraid to let the steering wheel slip through your fingers if it's a big slide. You'll find it less frantic, but remember to wind the lock off as you recover the slide. Keep practising, it's lots of fun

Looked to me like you were going well! Mark (silver/green Academy spec car with me in garage 10) said he had fun chasing you around. Agreed on the stoppages, seemed to be a lot of cars breaking down. I have some video of some of the interesting driving standards. There were three Hondas at one point that were ducking and diving all over the place, making passes on the inside, etc. Had a little moment with the white/black R300 racer as I caught a tow all the way down Hangar straight, arrived at Stowe with maybe 10mph more speed tucked up right behind him, then he braked really early at the corner marker board! Bit of a brown trousers moment!! All good fun though. Have a good one on the 14th

Think I passed you a few times at Silverstone yesterday, didn't have much time to wave though

In my experience, the rake is quite critical to the overall balance of the car. Not enough and the car won't want to turn-in very crisply, especially at speed - understeer. Too much and it will want to swap ends before you reach the apex - oversteer.

Cheers Simon! There was a lot of grip out there really, only the Indy circuit was dicey in the wet, out the back even in the rain it was pretty good on A048s. Did nearly go off tho - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151849315317387&l=181762150362227138 😬 Those 4 corners on the GP section, they totally make the day worth it for me. Such a great sequence - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151850429877387&l=3774279040185576060 (Both of those Facebook clips should be public, apologies if not)

Had a lot of fun today, great driving as always from club members. Special thanks to The Team in garage 12 Same time next year? 😬

Probably me in the yellow one. Yeah the traffic sucked. I couldn't be arsed to change before driving home so I still had my race suit on... not pleasant, ended up extremely sweaty by the time I got home (3 hours). I got off the M25 at Chertsey and came back to Newbury via Staines and Windsor onto the M4 that way. Fun day out aside from that though 😬

Cheers Geoff. See you all on Thursday

Geoff, do you know which 10 garages we've got? Hopefully enough to share between everybody, with a couple of cars in each?

Yes please to the aero mirror mounts. Will mail you.

It's a lot easier with the wishbone off the car IMO, then you can put it in a vice and press it out using a large socket and a smaller socket (or similar). It might need some heat though if it's been in there for a long time.

Andrew, rather than riveting the blanking panel in place I drilled holes to line up with the existing rivnuts for the heater, and attached it with the old machine screws from the heater. That way I can take it off again quite easily which gives good access to under the dash when necessary

Sometimes if you pump fluid through using the pedal, and the pedal travels further than normal, it can damage the seals in the master cylinder as they travel past an area they don't normally. If you see what I mean. Usually fixable with a seal kit to rebuild the master cylinder, if that's the problem.

Another happy Brise customer here

T'was me, thanks for the spots, picking up a friend for a trip to work. Chillier than expected!

Hi Paul Barry's taking the sofa and armchair bits tonight and John has someone who might be interested in the cabinet, although I've not heard from them yet. If you do fancy the cabinet it's basically still there for the taking

No that's correct, no washers needed at the top on the rear. Just torque up the cap-head bolt correctly that that's it

I've still got these bits and pieces. Bored of paying for storage now really, I'll let them go for free or an NtL donation. They must be good for someone? :)

I've been down this road... See: http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=194142 Passed the MOT again a few weeks ago, no problems!

I have mine under the dash clipped onto the loom

You may be able to do this with an aggregator. Here's a selection: http://www.techsupportalert.com/best-free-rss-reader-aggregator.htm Whether or not any of those will also provide you with an output feed I don't know, but they may well do. It would certainly be possible to write something to do this though.

That would work but it will eat front-tyres in no time. I run -2.5 degrees camber and 2mm toe-in on each side. Decent handling and even tyre wear

You'll need to take the tunnel cover off to access the mechanism. Relatively simple but possibly a bit more involving than you might have imagined. Remove the rubber handbrake cover that you've already started sliding forwards (it will come off completely an leave the leather part behind. Remove the gear knob (looks like a 6-speed knob - should be a small grub screw at the front, loosen that and unscrew the knob) Now to completely remove the tunnel cover you need to slacken off the handbrake so that it goes up enough to let the tunnel cover off. That's done underneath the car at the adjusters just above/forward of the diff. You should find them if you follow the handbrake cable. Then the tunnel top should lift off. It might be secured towards the rear bulkhead with a couple of screws too.

Pedals on the middle mount with the brake slightly higher/closer than the clutch, and throttle set to be level with the brake at about 60% pedal pressure.