StevehS3
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Everything posted by StevehS3
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The cam cover is soft, thin alloy as you will see when you drill it so I think it is better inline. Mine is secured to a chassis tube with a couple of zip ties. I am away and will check the valve on Friday but if you blow down it you can determine which way it goes.
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Andrew, my NRV is in-line rather than fitted to the tank or cam cover. Others might have fitted it differently though.
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This is a shot of the cam cover fitting. I think (and it only a think!) the size of the orifice is important. If the hole was too large it might reduce oil pressure and discharge [too much] oil with the air into the cam cover.
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I might have a new bracket. I’ll check later.
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I have always thought the standard gauge isn’t heavily damped as the needle can move fairly quickly e.g. when setting off from from idle. Andrew: note the fitting is different for the later metric chassis just in case that what you happen to have.
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Many thanks SM25T - sounds good. Is the glass lens roughly the same shape as the original (I have seen that some stand forward about 1cm more than the originals)? Also, was there much improvement using the Powerful UK units alone? Many thanks, Steve
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I wondered how folks got on with the PowerfulUk 5.75 crystal headlights. We’re they much brighter? Easy to fit? Any finally, but importantly, do they look ok on the car and not look like an aftermarket job?
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Hi John, firstly here’s the good luck message! I wondered if your gauge actually moves in one step from 1/4 to E in practice? My needle does seem to gradually move between 1/4 and E albeit rather more quickly than expected which ties in with the non-linearity of the sensor/measurement. Having said that the gauge is heavily smoothed so I expect the needle wouldn’t immediately jump from 1/4 to E anyway. I expect you are right and the float is hanging in air below 1/4 full.
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Thinking about the bottom quarter area and a possible explanation. Do you think the gauge was stuck until the 14th litre was added then it jumped from 205 to 176 ohms and in practice with all the vibration and slushing around of fuel when driving it wouldn’t have done that? Apart from that anomaly it seems as good as can be expected.
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I’ve used ZV3, Uniroyal Rain Sport (not sure what the difference is between sport and expert) and ZZS, albeit on 13”. Rain Sport are a noticeable improvement over ZV3 but not as good as ZZS in the dry (not used them in the wet). Rain Sport have huge cut outs and along with their shape nowhere near the contact area of a track day tyre like ZZS or I suppose R888. As a road only tyre I find the Rain Sports a good choice and quite inexpensive.
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I swapped mine out for Uniroyal RainSport from Camskill which seem noticeably better (for road use) and are reasonably priced.
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They are fitted the same way as mine before I swapped them out. Go easy on them, there isn’t much grip.
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Same here. 18 PSI cold. Mine are all 185 size.
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Cadwell Park - Tuesday 12th June - £195 - PLACES AVAILABLE
StevehS3 replied to Shortshift's topic in Track
Totally agree with what others have said. Big thumbs up to the organisers. Never felt intimidated, cars seemed well spaced out and got loads of track time over the day. Oulton booked! -
Mine drying in the sun after the first blat of the season ;-)
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That would be me heading back home after a blat in the Peaks and coffee at Hathersage. Steve H
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I think there is a backlog for them to work through as mine arrived last week.
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I'm a dribbler too. Sneaked an order in directly just after the deadline. I feel better for coming out and posting. 😳
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I think a RR session and open loop control is preferred by most but I've had success with the LC-1 and adaptive control. I'd be interested to know what range of AFRs others use. I am running at 14:1 at low load through to 13.5:1 mid throttle and 13:1 at full throttle. Better to run open loop at idle and load cells 0. I find much smoother response at low throttle (no kangaroos!) without selecting 'cut fuel on overrun'. Steve H
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Hi Gary, First Dibs on the black windscreen please. I'll BM you. Cheers, Steve
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YHBM re Carcoon. Steve
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Jason, the main issue is that you are running far too lean. The pops and bangs is secondary and may well go away once the AFR is sorted. First check should be the TPS calibration. If you are running open loop your mapping is dependent on that. Connect to the ECU and check that it reads 0 to 100% across the throttle range. Ignition on and engine not running, display the injection map and the highlighted cell should move smoothly from 0 to 100% as you open the throttle. Make sure you can reach the full load cell ie 100%. Steve
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I'm no expert either but if your AFR meter is correct then you are far too lean. Cutting the fuel on over run might help. I think there is a theory that a lean mixture on over run at higher revs 'misses' the spark and just goes straight through to the exhaust. A richer mixture actually helps at it ignites.
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I think it depends on your overall setup as to whether it is worth moving the lambda. I have an Emerald ECU and swapped to a wideband lambda running closed loop as an alternative to rolling road mapping. I wouldn't be happy to use only one cylinder for that application. If it was a standard ECU which would have a good standard map and a narrow band lambda I would probably leave it.
