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StevehS3

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Everything posted by StevehS3

  1. At the throttle body end be sure that the clamp can rotate freely otherwise the cable is continuously bending causing it to fray and snap. Bicycle brake (not gear) inner cable was fine on mine.
  2. Just for info. the I.D. of the hose is approx 16mm at the water rail end and 20mm at the thermostat end with the 90 degree bend. So, all good and a neat solution avoiding the joiner in the middle.
  3. Thanks again. I will measure the IDs of the new hose before draining down. It is made for this so as you say, it should fit.
  4. Hi Andrew, yes it is that hose. I was hoping I would manage it without draining, accepting I would lose a bit. Interesting with regard to the sizing, my existing one has a joining piece which I assumed was for connection to the heater, if fitted. My replacement is a one-piece silicone hose from Classic Silicone Hoses. I now wonder if it will fit.
  5. Many thanks Jonathan. I’ve drained before and have a method that works for my setup thank you (it seems I’ve got one that is easy to bleed!).
  6. I need to change the heater hose (although I don’t have a heater) on my K series car. Will I manage to do it without draining down the coolant? Many thanks, Steve
  7. Unfortunately I can’t help Stephen but I completely agree with the step by step guide idea. It would make a good read for LF magazine too to have some technical content in each issue such as how fit SS cams, how to change the cam belt etc...
  8. Hope they brought it under cover before it rained.
  9. StevehS3

    1.8 power

    Thank you for taking the time to explain. Interesting. It is nice to learn something new each day.
  10. StevehS3

    1.8 power

    Makes sense JK, heat and noise in the tyres too.
  11. StevehS3

    1.8 power

    That’s great news. As an aside, I have often wondered where the circa. 30hp is lost between the engine and the wheels. I assume it is lost as heat and sound but it does seem an awful lot. Would better lubrication/oils help (if they exist)?
  12. I don’t have the map settings but from memory I chose sites with zero throttle then chose a rev. range (say 3,000 and above), check there is fuelling at those sites and then delay the spark in the ignition map (so that the fuel misses the spark in the engine causing it to pop when it hits the exhaust).
  13. Perhaps a few words about ‘Spotted’ in LF to drum up a bit of interest or even a competition with a L7C cap as a prize for the most confirmed Spots?
  14. You’re lucky, I could have spotted you at almost all of those locations!
  15. I had a very similar sounding problem. It happened when it was warm (but not hot). It turned out to be a faulty heater in the lambda sensor which is used to heat the probe when the engine isn’t up to full temperature. In my case it was reported by the ODB reader. If you have a spare lambda it might be worth swapping it.
  16. I agree with RJ about the clearance. I think the engine mounts can sag over time so make sure the engine is where it should be before cutting the hole. Is the existing exhaust in the middle of the existing hole or towards the bottom (indicating is has sagged)?
  17. My top tips - Loads of masking tape and cardboard to protect the paintwork if you slip - I used a dress maker’s curve around the primaries to give a smooth line and even gap (honest it was my mum’s!)
  18. I recently weighed my 6x13 Apollos with 50% worn ZZS tyres at 11.6kg. My 6x14 Minilites with 30% worn Rainsports weigh 14.6kg All heavier than I’d hoped.
  19. Jack, It isn’t my idea but I did it myself. It wasn’t difficult but obviously needs doing with care (I waited for a day when everyone had gone out!). I originally had the belts sat on top of the seat but it didn’t feel right to me. Let me know if you want more info as I took photos as I went along and might still have details of the plastic insert I used. Steve
  20. I have cloth seats and decided on this solution.
  21. A623 from Chesterfield towards Stockport. Looked like a car that was at Bedford Autodrome earlier.
  22. Thanks Jim. I’ll take a good look at it as take a note of the cable routing
  23. Thank you for the suggestions. I will have a good check round. Jim, It is 3 clicks to fully engage the brake so about normal I would say.
  24. It’s coming up to MOT time and I remembered the above advisory last year. I perhaps would expect the n/s to be slightly weaker due to the extra cable feeding off the o/s brake. I don’t know how much weaker it was but I am wondering if I should do something about this such as replace the cable. The handbrake seems to take effect at about the same time on each wheel but that’s really all I can test at home. Any thoughts please?
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