ECR

My leather seats (1990 vintage) predate the S seat but out of interest: Leather Seats (Restall) weigh 10 Kilo each including runners with 30 x 6mm mounting strips R500 seat Fully trimmed - no runners or extraneous fittings 2183 gms

Sounds like you are talking about your rear anti roll bar. In this case yes it is safe to drive to the garage. The handling will be affected but only during cornering so take it slowly. Make sure the broken bits don't foul on anything if you drive it (take the broken bits off).

It's OK for a sprint but from what I remember a little narrow in parts for a full on track day. Not a particularly nice environment either...

As it says... Mail me

Shaun Good advice from F355GTS. I will be there and am happy to give you any "hand holding" you need on your first day (I still remember mine....just !) Green/Yellow car with Club web site sticker on bonnet (and plenty of "patina"). 😬 Ex Chairman Roger

Graham Still for sale. I will mail you Roger

Now about these wheels....

He's now coming round to my way of thinking (patina adds value !)

Paul I had exactly the same problems with my Techcraft silencer. Raceco modified it for me and to date no problems. I could tell you exactly what they did but then I would have to kill you.....

As alicat says follow the shaft down to find exactly where the play is. Assuming that it is in the rack you can adjust it out. You should have a large nut above where the shaft goes into the rack. This is a locknut for the adjusting screw which when turned will take out any rack backlash. Adjust with the wheels off the ground and do not overtighten. When finished check rack through its full deflection.

NigP Had all my plating done in the west midlands so unlikely to be of help to you. Surf the web ?

Electroless nickel plating is the preferred finish for this type of part (if you want a shiny finish) AFAIAA it does not suffer the hydrogen embrittlement problems of electricaly deposited finishes. It was the finish used on Lotus 49 suspension for example.

Still for sale. Anyone make Luekaemia Research Fund richer by £190.00 ? I can bring to Lydden on Saturday if required. And I need the space !

Cable tie round it ! I did

IIRC They are M12 x 1.5 pitch. They are about 5" long on my setup (you can always cut them down). You need 4 off This is from memory only ! hope it helps.

Well that's good If you present it to a scrutineer he will inspect it for general condition and then on payment of £1.00 (usually) he will attach the current MSA gold sticker. I suggest that you try to do this previous to any event that you may enter as they do not always have the stickers to hand.

BS 6658-85 type A is acceptable. Type B is not (sorry I don't know the differences between type A and B) Edited by - ecr on 19 Sep 2002 12:45:54

Thanks Ian My chassis/wiring is a 1990 De Dion X Flow exactly the same as yours. It's a puzzle why that wire is in the loom at all. I wondered if when the wire broke (yes it has on my car many times) it earthed itself and that caused the burn out. Perhaps someone will be along soon and tell us what that wire does... If it electrically connected to the same point on the alternator as the thick browns (I have not checked that on my car yet but will) then I have a wire that is connected to the thick brown wire at the alternator end and also at the bulkhead end. Doesn't make much sense

What axle is 3 3/4" p.c.d. Ford or Ital ?

Thanks for that Graham The clever bit is how they get the smoke in there in the first place...and, I suppose, why it doesn't spill out when it is in storage on the reel. If you find an answer to that please let me know. 😬 In the meantime if anyone can answer any of my previous questions.... Peter Turning off the master switch does not affect my ECU (otherwise there would be little point in fitting one )

Yes the two thick wires are connected to the same point. Any ideas as to what would have caused the wire to burn out ? Why would I not have noticed any problems with a wire bunt out like this ? Would you normaly expect to see this wire spliced to a thick brown ?

Electrics always give me problems and so in an attempt to be better informed I would like to know what the wires connected to my alternator do. I have 4 wires in total. 2 thick and 1 thin which attatch through the plug, and In addition to this I have 1 more wire which is connected to the alternator a little distance from the plug. The two thick wires presumably carry power to the battery. The first (plug) thin wire feeds the warning light (does it ?) What does the second thin wire do ? I discovered that this wire had burnt out recently (with no apparent problems to the car) and had to unwrap the loom to replace it. I traced it back to the bulhead where I discovered that it had been clumsily spliced into one of the 2 thick alternator wires. As my loom has been modifiel by a (presumably ?) qualified electrician when I converted to ecu driven distributorless ignition I am just wondering if I have discovered a "botch".. or whether this is correct. Your thoughts/explanations would be appreciated Edited by - ecr on 18 Sep 2002 12:02:28

I believe them to be Ford but I will check tonight and let you know

Glad Steve put your mind at rest. Are you doing Cadwell now ?

I may have for sale (If I can persuade Barbara that she actually likes a dog box !)... 5 speed straight cut Quaiffe pro box (needle roller). Quaiffe alloy case, alloy lid with modified breather outlet and front corner filler point. 2.04 first gear. The box can be delivered with either long or short input shaft and so will fit any car arranged for a type 9 gearbox. The box is being professionally refreshed by SPC at the moment and will have zero miles after rebuild. I am told that this box would currently be over £1700.00 new and I am open to offers in the region of £850.00