andymal

Hi Is it the 9522 with the solenoid underneath or the Magneton with the solenoid above? I'm having a similar problem with Brise at the moment. First I bought a 9522 that missed the ring gear. I returned the 9522 and sent a Powerlite that would fit for repair and as a pattern. They have replaced the 9522 with a Magneton with a different size pinion and that won't engage either. It is about to go back for another try. I don't what flywheel is on the car but as it was the first SLR it could be non-standard. I'll be interested to hear what Brise tell you. Andy

Mine cost £200 +vat. I only had the outside done.

Does anybody have a Brise, Magnetron or other starter for a K series out of the car that they can measure the diameter of the pinion for me. The Brise I have recently puchased is not engaging with the flywheel. I have tested that the pinion is activating correctly. The only possibility I can find is that the pinion is a smaller diameter than on the starter I have taken off the car. I'm trying to determine whether the issue is with the starter supplied or my flywheel. Thanks Andy

I had my primaries coated by Zircotec over the winter but had limited chance to really test out the effectiveness so far.

Myles, it's a 9522 like the one on the left in the picture. I have solved the problem by removing the backplate and grinding a small amount of metal away to allow space for the head of the allen key bolt. Also, today I've constructed a heat shield similar to the one you show. Thanks Andy

I'm fitting a Brise starter and having a problem with the bottom fixing. For the top two fixings I have cut down the original allen key bolts and they fit without any problem. For the bottom fitting I've inserted a stud because there would be no way of getting an allen key to a bolt head but that leaves no space between the stud and the body of the starter/solenoid to fit a nut onto the stud. There is a channel cut into the starter body to allow space for the stud but I'm struggling to see a way of securing the bottom fixing in any way. Has anybody else encountered this or found a solution? Thanks Andy

I'm planning to fit lowered floors this weekend but struggling to work out what some of the fitting kit bits are for. I will be retaining the leather seats that attach to separate runners. In the kit there are two metal sleeves, 18mm in diameter and 45mm in length. I can see nothing like these in the existing installation with the standard floors. Where do they fit or are they not required with leather seats? Also in the kit are two flat plates and an angled plate with several holes cut in it. I see from other posts that the flat plates have been riveted to the upper side of the floors. Is this still required when there is the separate chassis for the leather seats? Also, what is the purpose of the angled plate and where does it fit? Any relevant photos will be greatly appreciated. Andy

I've just had the primaries coated by Zircotec but not had a chance to use it in anger yet. I was fed up of the dreaded click - a starter/solenoid was lasting a year at best before being cooked. The cost of the coating was a liitle over one new starter or equal to two starter refurbs so it's worth a punt. The service was good and it looks excellent. I was put off the idea of wrapping because of threads on pistonheads about hotspots where gaps appear between the wrap or the wrapping is uneven.

I've found Performance Braking (01600 713117) to be excellent for both advice and service.

I will soon need to make a similar decision so I am very interested in what responses you get. With the Yokohama A032 a solution sometimes recommended was to have the super soft on the front and soft on the rear to help remove some of the understeer. To add another angle to the original question, does soft front and medium work with A048 or is soft all round and play with suspension settings better?

Thanks guys. Heat work on one of them. The second took three attempts before it would move at all. In the end it would turn slightly but as soon as I used a drift to help it on its way chunks broke off it. Looks like I'll be on the phone to Caterham adding new adjustable platforms to the winter rebuild list. For the tops I clamped the eye and turned the nut and it worked a treat.

I'm replacing the dampers and springs on an early SLR and struggling to remove the adjustable platforms. The springs and collars have come off ok but I cannot get the threaded sleeves to move. I have soaked them in releasing fluid for a few days, tried to turn them to start the movement and used a punch but all to no avail. What is the best way to remove it? At the top of the existing damper damper is a hexagonal section approximately one inch long. I assume that this is the spacer for wide track suspension that other threads have referred to. Is it simply a case of replacing the top from the new damper with the top from the existing one to retain the additional length? Thanks Andy

Hi I would appreciate feedback from anybody who has had Zircotec ceramic coating applied to their exhaust manifold. In particular; have you still suffered from cooked starter motors, has the manifold cracked or gone brittle similar to wrapped exhausts, or have there been any other side effects? Thanks Andy

Hi Chris The normal rule with classic cars is that the tyres should be replaced after 10 years. This is because the risk of cracking increases dramatically after that time. It is essential that older tyres are regularly checked, all three surfaces. Regards Andy

The early VHPDs had the oil tank in the bellhousing with no dipstick. The correct level is an inch or two below the plate seen just inside the bellhousing tank when the oil is warm.

Paul I run CR500s on 13 inch wheels at 15psi front and 16psi rear when hot on a SLR. Both me and the son find the car stable and predictable at this whilst much more and it becomes too twitchy. Andy

I've seen a number of threads regarding running CR500s in the oposite direction to the markings in the dry because of the fronts delaminating under heavy breaking. Also, some threads refer to the marked direction of rotation being focused on acceleration forces. This would suggest that in the dry the fronts are used in the opposite direction to that marked whilst the rears are used as marked. Is this correct or do the race teams mount all four in the opposite direction? Thanks Andy

What is the latest wisdom on which starter is best to use? I have the dreaded click again despite the relay mod and a new top range starter less than two years ago. Both Brise and CC appear to now supply an axial starter with the solenoid built in. Any reports of problems with either of these latest versions or recommendations of which will be most reliable and easiest to fit greatly appreciated. Andy

I have a trace of oil where the nearside halfshaft enters the diff that has also been thrown back onto the bottom of the fuel tank. I assume that there must be an oil seal that sits between the halfshaft and the diff casing. Is it replaceable without removing or dismantling the diff? Looking through the archives I found a mention of a breather pipe that may throw out excess oil on the nearside. Is the seal or the breather the more typical problem? Andy

I use one identical to that with no problem.

Thanks Dave. Duraboot looks good.

Hi How do you replace the gaiter on the drive shaft? I have managed to remove the shaft but have been unable to find a way to split the shaft at the outer end to be able to get at the gaiter. Regards Andy

Hi Steve Have you checked whether the rad is sludged up? I have the old rad of mine if you want to swap them over and see if it improves. I know the old rad was starting to sludge so it will not be perfect but is likely to have about 4 years less use (I think the cars are roughly the same age and it is about 4 years since i swapped). Regards Andy

Shaun I experienced a moving biting point for several months. It turned out to be the clutch cable that was frayed and would snag inside the sleeve. I recommend you take the cable off and test it. Andy

I have an emerald now, fitted it at the same time as the jenvies.