bobt

>what is the difference between the QED and Landrover offering? Try 85quid cheaper for a similar kit for starters! The PRRT has been discussed in great depth on previous threads. It will certainly be worth your while reading before parting with your cash! Rob

Expensive gimic IMO. Why not use the proper landrover device? - PRRT

> as it has more mapping points and so more accurate mapping Really? Emerald used to have fixed points but now the granularity is totally adjustable >The torque curve has less of a dip too That has nothing to do with the ECU and everything to do with the map/mapping Rob

Thanks stu, I'm certainly going to give this a go now. The car is very much in bits for its winter refurb/checkover and engine refresh so have no quarms in removing more. The scuttle etc has come of many times and needs to come off again as I'm also relocating the Emerald under the dash. thanks for your help chaps Rob edited to say: Stu, just looked at your pics. Mine is No 125 and same colour and currently in as many bits 😬 Edited by - bobt on 29 Jan 2010 10:01:20

So if I understand correctly, the panel only lips under the edge of the side skin and is not riveted or bonded there? If so (thinking out loud here) if I used a 1mm sheet of wet lay carbon (much more flexible than pre-preg) I could or rather might be able to slot one end in first then flex the sheet just enough to push in the other side. It looks like it lips under each side by 15mm. Does this sound feasible? As suggested by Adrian the existing panel could be removed by first carefully cutting in half. I guess if the sheet won't flex quiet enough I could cut 10mm of the ends of the old Ali panel and slot that in first, a smear of sealant, shorten the carbon panel by 10 mm each end and try again. The lip would only be 5mm each side which should be very easy to flex for. Hmmmm Rob

I want to replace the panel because its scuffy, has lots of holes in it and want to 'black pack', well, black powder coat that panel and the vertical scuttle panel. Rob

I guess I'll have to remove the steering shaft to remove and fit this panel. Can you confirm?

Yes the flat horizontal panel infront of the scuttle. Not the vertical one connected to the scuttle. Hmm ok I'll give it a go. Thanks Edited by - bobt on 28 Jan 2010 21:37:01

Hi, is it possible to replace the horizontal bulk head panel without disturbing the side skins? It looks like this panel tucks under the edges of the sideskins on both sides. Anybody removed this panel before? Thanks Rob

Hi Dave expect a phone call 😬

Will speak to Oily, but do happen to know what they are made of? downsides to using them? reuseable? Rob

Is it possible to use head shims with the K series? The reason I ask is that the head has been skimmed twice already and is now very low, even when using the new landrover two-piece head gaskets. I've just finished refreshing the engine and was a little concerned about some of the pitting on the fire ring area of the head. I've reassembled for now with a new landy 2-piece gasket to see how it goes (no previous HG issues) as I don't think I can get away with another skim, so what are my options? If a shim can be used, is it bonded to the head? Its a DVA big valve ported head so reluctant to scrap it once the pitting compromises the seal ☹️ Thanks Rob

Speak to Oily, I'm sure he'll have hundreds of very low mileage standard valves

How much play is acceptable in the bearing of the manual tensioners? Is is a case of zero? thanks Rob

Hi, Well powerspeed have welded me in a new Cat and in their opinion (having dismantled the existing one) the previous cat showed all the evidence of being destroyed by rich running. The engine is running on an emerald and has been properly mapped by the 2 Steve's with no issues for 2-3 years The conclusion is that the Cat was killed whilst on a 10 blat up in the alps earlier in the year ☹️ We spent the whole time at high altitude in the passes and thinking back noticed that the idle was dead rough and the exhaust running considerably hotter than usual. The heat was belting off it which you could feel as you got slightly close to the car (the main can also tarnished heavily that week). Once back down at the end, everything returned to normal. You'll probably notice from my other recent postings that I'm now fitting a baro sensor to compensate for altitude as I WILL be doing it again :-) Rob

Bu&&er didn't think of that 🙆🏻 Oh well, my engine is properly mapped already and I guess the baro sensor is considerably cheaper than a wideband and associated gubbins. Thanks again to all of you for your on and off list responses, its been most helpful. Rob

Hi Johnty, blatmail sent Hmmm, I think my understanding of the BARO must be over simplistic. Why would the fueling reductions necessary vary from engine to engine in order to maintain the same AFR? The only variable being adjusted here is the air density. Are you suggesting that the particulars of a normally aspirated engine influence its susceptibility to changes in ambient air pressure? In my (simplistic) view I was expecting the calibration settings to be particular to the type of sensor employed but the necessary correction over variation of ambient pressure to be common to all N/A engines. Now stilling patiently and wanting to be educated 😶‍🌫️ Rob -editied to add- Engine is Emerald ECU, 1.8K, throttle bodies, BP285H cams, DVA ported head, bigger valves (sizes escape me at the mo), forged pistons, Powerspeed 4-2-1 208 BHP Edited by - bobt on 15 Dec 2009 14:51:24

I've just downloaded the Emerald manual and can see (on page 55) that the sensor can be connected to pin 34. I think the manual is not quite upto date as it only mentions MAP sensor compensation and configuration (but does not describe any of the details on how to do so) yet my software has both MAP and BARO. Which document are you refering to Johnty?

Thanks everybody for your replies both on and off list. I spoke to Emerald this afternoon and they pointed me at this part here: Magneti Marelli PRT03/04 MAP 1 Bar Absolute Pressure Does this look like the part you guys are using? Thanks Rob

Thanks - I'll give them a try.

Or is it called a barometric pressure sensor?

Hi peebs, Every year myself and a few mates do a 10 day road(trip/blat/race) through the Alps :-p Every year the car runs like a dog on the high altitude sections of the route :-( I'm running a 210 bhp K with an Emerald and would like to find some information on setting up an atmospheric pressure sensor to prevent the engine running over rich. Has anybody on here set this up before? know what sensor to use? which spare channel to use etc ? Any help or pointers would be very useful. Thanks Rob

Anybody know of a good o ring supplier who can ship fast with small quantities? Cheers Rob

Hmmm ok so the guides fitted 2 years (under 10K miles) ago should still be good then? To be on the safe side maybe I'll also bring the head round on Friday when I pop in to drop some bits to you. Just for a quick eye-ball. Would hate to rebuilt it and overlook something like that ☹️ cheers Rob

Can't believe nobody knows!