bobt

Well, after a lot of thinking about options etc I've decided to stick with the existing BP285H and hydraulic followers. I will instead just upgrade the valve spring caps. I'll hold fire on the cam upgrades until a later time, thus leaving me more cash to refresh the engine. Cheers Rob

From your responses I'm guessing they're no longer operating so I won't be ordering the adapter. Thanks for the info Rob

Who is Jason then?

LOL I'm aware of the history but I want one of their -6 adapters for the K series plastic fuel rail. As far as I'm aware they are not available anywhere else! Rob

Anybody know if these guys are still trading? The phone number listed on their website does not connect Rob

Hi Dave, Hmmm, I might of guessed it wasn't going to be that simple. So if I understand correctly, the plan will still work but I would have to ditch the idea of converting the followers and move straight to proper solid followers and the appropriate caps? Can solid followers be gapped for one cam and then gapped later for another? is there still the same concept of shimming ? or are they machined? Thanks Rob

Hi, Hmmm not sure I understand the reasoning behind that. How will the timing be different? The profile of the cam has not changed. Tob

Hello, As part of the winter engine refresh (1.8K DVA 210bhp) I'd like to plan for a future cam upgrade. My thoughts are to rebuild the engine with the original BP285H cams BUT fit further uprated springs, steel caps and solid followers (converted hydraulic followers). The reasoning here is that I can run-in the engine on the current map, and when I later decide to upgrade I can simply swap cams and re-shim the followers and remap. No head removeal required as valve gear is up to spec. Would this approach work? or is there something about the profile of the BP285Hs that would prohibit their usage with solid followers? Thanks Rob

Hello peebs, As part of the winter engine refresh (1.8K DVA 210bhp) I'd like to consider having the front pulley, crank, flywheel and clutch cover dynamically balanced. I understand 'Vibration Free' are the people to see, but would like a rough idea of cost from somebody whos used them before. Anybody? Cheers Rob

About 2 years.

My freestyle adjustable front ARB has just snapped :( The main bar has broken just before the join with the adjustment boss. Has this happened to anybody else? I run the bar pretty soft too. Rob

Hmmm can't find the PC680 on the Powervamp site. Has it been discontinued and replaced with another model?

Certainly agree

😳 Mine certainly didn't cost anywhere near that!!!!! The *real* company that makes them is called 'Bright Plate' I bought one form them direct at the show.

😬 Hi Steve, See you're in Selsey Occationally when the weather looks good I take the A283 and A285 down from London through to Chichester then onto Selsey. Great Sunday morning blatting roads finished of with fish and chips in Lifeboat pub topic> Edited by - bobt on 10 Jul 2009 16:23:35

Oooh have you got a google map/ multimap link to there? I'm in Ealing so only 20ish mins away

You don't need a rear number plate light with one of these: http://scaperformance.co.uk/Brightplate.aspx Ordered one at the stoneleigh show. Look great

I bought the standard (caterham) sized ones from them. Again, powder coated brass shells. Been on for a number of years now with no issues. I didn't go for 5 3/4 ones otherwise it might be mistaken for a W***field 😳

Try looking and the SVC webite: http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/lights_head.html

Hi, Yes I'm currently using that part. I think there will be a benefit. Using a simple plate with a single 90degree hose takeoff on it bolted to the block, the assembly will be considerably lower profile and a much smaller target than present. I'll give them a call tomorrow and ask about that part. Thanks Rob Edited to say: Actually I'll pop down and visit so that I may hold the proposed assembly up against the block to get an appreciation of size/fit. Will Comment back on Thursday for those interested. Edited by - bobt on 14 Jun 2009 18:55:39

Hi, I've never been happy with the position of the oil filter, and following a few scrapes on the can from some motorway rubbish would like to relocate it. I'm running with a pace drysump so have a high pressure hose comming round the front of the engine and into the filter head plate. I'm guessing if I place a filter in-line on that hose I simply need an adapter plate with a single hose take-off to replace the filter head on the block? Does that sound right? Been looking at the think-automotive site but can't work out which takeoff plate I need. The takeoff ones shown appear to be for remote filter or oil coolers where two pipe takeoff are required as they assume you are using the engines own internal pump and not an external one thus requiring a single hose takeoff. Can anybody help ID a part? Thanks Rob

what he said But I also run with a radtec for the past 3 years with no issues too. Rob

My carbon cycle wings have been bolted on for years. Not a single sign of cracking around the holes (There's a smutty under tone in there somewhere) Rob

Hi, I have a carbon nose cone on my superlight and have always fancied a nose band. The nose is painted and the area where the band would be takes a fair bit of rash. Having a band would also be of practical use as there would be no paint to chip off Question is, would it be possible to create the nose band by removing the paint in some manner instead of stripping the whole nose and respraying? Cheers Rob

I fitted a set to my widetrack superlight last year to replace the adjustable platform billies. The very next day I set off on a 2200 mile tour with a handfull of other cars through the Alps. Fair to say that was a good road test and the difference quite noticable. Ride was excellent and felt very sure footed, and we certainly weren't sparing the horses Rob