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@ScottR400D The leak on the radiator that has just been replaced did not appear to be stress related, I suspect it was a coolant corrosion issue as has been discussed many times before and swapping to blue coolant last year made the leak worse. Thanks for calling my solution a lash up but it works for my car and has done for around 10 years. I only offered it as an alternative. Cheers Andrew

@Jonathan Kay If you look carefully at the picture you will note that the top hose actually rests on the chassis, thus supporting the top of the radiator; similarly at the bottom the same thing happens. Additional support does come from the silicon hose bobbins. I should point out that my car was originally K series powered in an imperial chassis and when the K let go spectacularly in 2007, I installed a Raceco 210bhp Duratec but still running the K series style radiator albeit a deeper core. The metric chassis and radiators for the Duratec cars leave clearance between the top hose and the chassis rail, so the radiator bobbins do have to carry the weight of the radiator rather than utilising the hoses as well. My solution works for me but it may be worth trying a variation of it on a metric chassis. Cheers Andrew

@Handwheels the silicon hose bobbins have lasted really well and I haven't had to replace them (I think they were installed in 2013ish). The radiator hoses are Caterham silicon hoses, they've been on the car since I did the Duratec conversion in 2008/9 with no issues and they carry most of the weight of the radiator whilst the bobbins locate it in the right place. Compared to the current Caterham top hose used on the 420 the silicon hoses are much more flexible. Andrew

The best solution for road use is the standard Ford (Modine) heat exchanger although it does need a smaller oil filter to retain ground clearance. It helps the oil warm up quicker, particularly for a dry sumped car and once everything is warmed up, it actually helps stabilise the coolant temperature. One of the best mods I've done on my car and one mod we did on all the Premier Power F225 cars if they weren't fitted already. Oh, and for road use blank off the oil cooler, uncover for the track. Cheers Andrew

And this was my solution some years ago, using pieces of silicon hose as the bobbins. The top and bottom radiator hoses (also silicon) ensure that the rad doesn't move far anyway and the flexibility of the whole thing means that any chassis flex isn't transmitted to the radiator. The rad in the picture has just been swapped for another Radtec due to a leak that has steadily worsened over the past few years and definitely got worse after I swapped to blue coolant last year. Blue coolant will be going back in as it seems to be a better solution for cars that are laid up over the winter. If you drive it year round then the recommended pink stuff is probably fine.

Its more pink than brown and looks like the aerial for the 5AS immobiliser unit. Andrew

Having done a large number of Duratec dry sump oil changes over the past year, I've never had any issues with the tank sump bolt. My advice is don't be ham fisted with it, nip it up (having ensured that the copper washer is in good condition) and feel the tightness - it doesn't need a torque wrench! Cheers Andrew

Gauge sender has one terminal and ecu sender has two terminals. Currently know of a 2021 R420 Duratec (not mine) that has the same issue; when the car comes off SORN I'll run Easimap and see what the issue is. Andrew

You don't need to swap the LED units just add resistors into the trailer wiring to mimic the effect that an incandescent bulb has. The reason its nots playing with the tow car is that the LED units have minimal resistance compared to a filament bulb and thus the auto check system (and the flasher relay/controller) on the tow car is not seeing the resistance it is expecting. Reverting back to filament bulbs increases maintenance as damp gets into the contacts/bulb holders and they will need a yearly inspection for signs of corrosion.

Have you tried jump starting it off another vehicle? Battery volts at 10.7 when cranking seems a little low and may well be the issue with disabling the immobiliser. Cheers Andrew

As others have said, a replacement MBE ECU is probably the best course of action and a rolling road session to map it properly. You'll probably end up with a much better running car than with the standard Caterham map, particularly for cold starts/low speed running and will be optimised for your car/engine.

I wouldn't bother, most I have seen recently, particularly on the A frame to Dedion centre bolt have had massive holes worn in the middle and thus are contributing very little. Andrew

Concentric clutch slave cylinders are not bomb proof by any stretch, I would replace whilst the engine is out. Be aware that there are 2 different lengths, 60mm and 70mm and what you need will depend on the bell housing depth - unfortunately both sizes look identical. You should also have a clutch pedal stop to limit the travel as if the slave goes over centre, it's life will be short. Around 20-25mm of travel, measured from the centre of the clevis pin to the rear edge of the pedal box should be ok. Cheers Andrew

As others have said, if the tick box is left unticked, the Emerald won't use the immobiliser. I eventually removed the immobiliser completely as it was causing all sorts of weird effects on gauges , particularly when the hazards were switched on. Good riddance, I rely on a properly wired FIA battery master switch that kills both high and low current feeds to the car, and has a knee panel covering it that makes it difficult to bridge out the contacts. Andrew

Sounds like an adjustment issue on the clutch; if it's a standard hydraulic clutch, you shouldn't have more than 25mm pedal travel (measured at the top of the pedal) otherwise you risk blowing blowing the seals on the slave cylinder - which is an engine out job to replace. If you don't have a clutch pedal stop then you need to fit one. Cheers, Andrew

This is my solution, implemented in 2018 when I rebuilt the car. I had a new rear panel and wanted to keep the clean look. The LED units (bought from Germany, not sure they're still available and can't find the link either) are mounted on alloy plates (made from the old rear skin) which were riveted to the rear basket tube whilst the fuel tank was out of the car. I have since covered the clean lenses with a light smoke tint to further hide them. The plug hanging down beneath is for the number plate light so that I can remove the spare wheel carrier and run without a spare. Both the spare wheel carrier and the mounting plate for just a numberplate have their own lamp units so its literally the work of minutes to swap over. Cheers Andrew

You do need a filter on the power supply to cancel out the majority of the electrical noise. I use a Starcom supplied unit on my Duratec but having fitted a new digital PMR this winter (which is separately powered and switched from the intercom) I now need to fit a second filter purely for the PMR. I'm hoping I have another Starcom unit in the garage, if not, I'll have to investigate further. Added - just found this via Google, haven't tried it but looks like it'll do the job: https://www.rallynuts.com/intercom-accessories/zero-noise-12v-power-filter.html Andrew

Sounds like the wiring needs replacing in that area as well as the immobilisers. Does it have a FIA battery master switch? If so, could just ditch the immobilisers and use the cutoff switch. Much less hassle.

Jonathan Replaced all the mounts with these, much softer than the originals. Hoses help to keep any excess movement in check. Cheers Andrew

Having suffered similar issues on a Radtec radiator post conversion from K series to Duratec, I came up with these flexible mounts to stop any chassis flex being transferred through to the radiator. They've been on for ~10 yrs, done a number of European trips and have no issues with leaks (and I use the pink/orange coolant). M8 stainless bolts inserted from the inside of an offcut of silicone hose. Cheers Andrew

Assuming that Caterham haven't changed the colours in the harness over the years, there should be 2 wires on the back of the starter button - white and white/red. White is the +12V supply from the battery/fusebox and white/red goes to the starter solenoid. Hope that helps? Andrew

Hi Elie, I have a used Duratec wet sump, it has the usual scuffs and scrapes at the front but no leaks. Surplus to requirements following upgrade to dry sump earlier this year. £100 + postage Cheers Andrew

I did wonder if it was your car after reading some of your posts during the build! We were just heading back to the hotel after a trip to the south of the island. Some great roads, love the mountain circuit and have so much respect for the racers. Hope your enjoying your Seven after the troubles during your build.

Split the engine and gearbox and remove separately to save pouring gearbox oil all over the garage floor. Engine can be removed using the engine crane whilst gearbox can be supported on a trolley jack and then slid forward to remove from the car, keeping it horizontal as it is lowered to the floor.

I used small dome headed aluminium allen bolts and nylocs (from ProBolt) rather than pop rivets when I swapped from stainless to carbon protectors a few years ago - when stripping the car for repainting last winter, I didn't have to worry about drilling rivets out in proximity to carbon and fibreglass. In terms of fitting, I prefer to lay wing on a flat surface and fit the protectors off the car. The other way would be to fit the wings with 3 or 4 bolts, place the wing protectors in position and drill a couple of holes at the top and bottom, then remove the wings and finish off away from the car. For the innermost fixings next to the body, I spaced the protector off the wing with a flat piece of rubber so that there was no distortion.