Pierson

Thanks Simon - much appreciated. Pierson

Apologies for a somewhat simplistic question, but could someone using a cycle computer on their car please advise if the same functions appear on the readout each time the unit 'wakes up'? What I'd like to know is: does the computer automatically revert to the previous readout settings, e.g. speed and odometer, or do you need to scroll through the various functions to reach the desired screen? I appreciate that this may vary from computer to computer - but if it was, say, the popular Sigma BC1606L - how does this work? All I want is speed and odometer on constantly - is this possible? Thanks in advance, Pierson

I, too, recently bought the same laptop - a Lenovo 3000 N200 with XP - mainly because it's getting difficult to buy PCs without Vista these days. Have to say I'm pleased with it overall, even tho' I need to chuck in some more memory. You didn't say which browser you're using. If it's like mine, it'll be IE7.0. My Browser sometimes freezes randomly in much the same way as you suggest - and I know 7.0 is a PITA. Maybe either install a more stable IE derivative or perhaps even Mozilla or something and see how that behaves? Pierson

Tim - it's Caterham part 71189 Originally it was from a Sprite caravan - so you'll be able to pick one up from just about any camping/caravanning outlet. Pierson

Most keyboard caps prise off with very little effort - I'd simply remove the key cap and rinse it in soapy water, dry it and reassemble. Whilst the cap is off, use a cotton bud to clean out any sticky residue, etc., from the keyboard base. You mention that it's only a few keys which are sticking but even so, I'd be tempted to do them one at a time so that I don't forget where each goes..... 😬 Pierson

I queried this myself a short while back and was advised that it may originally be from a Mk1 Ford Fiesta - can't confirm this though. Pierson

Apologies for the partial hijack but; First trip out this year today and my X/F did a similar thing - it would idle nicely then a blip of the throttle saw it 'idle' instead at 5,000 rpm! Appears that the ferrule on the carb. end of the throttle cable was dropping out of its retainer after the inner cable was pulled rather than sliding back again properly. I botched it so that I could go for a blat by taping the ferrule to the retainer metalwork above it but I'd rather do it properly. Is it wise to lube the cable sleeve with WD40 - could it simply be a little sticky? I have a spare (new) throttle cable which I could fit but there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the current one. Should the ferrule fit sufficiently snugly to avoid it dropping out, is it a deliberate interference fit? Pierson

A bloody mouse has chewed holes in the tunnel carpet in two, far too obvious places at some point during the past couple of weeks! Anybody got a black deDion tunnel carpet in good condition? It's for a long-cockpit 5-speed handbrake-under-the-dash S3 7. Anyone seeking a dead mouse in extremely poor condition, please see the 'For Sale' section - I'm open to offers. Pierson

Sorry Guy - Guy, then FTH and me last! Pierson

...And so am I! Is there such a thing as a Bulk Wanted?! If anyone else has one - black leather or vinyl, long cockpit S3 for the under-dash handbrake tunnel - I'd be interested after FTH. Cheers, Pierson

I'm afraid that I don't know the technical 'ins & outs' in respect of the A3 specifically but do know that on the Audi TT (original Mk. I) this type of activity was often a pre-cursor to what is known as dashpod failure. The dashpod is the entire instrument binnacle in a TT - hence I'm not sure how relevant or otherwise this may be to the A3 - meaning that individual instruments, dashlights and read-out LED's cannot be changed independantly. Other symptoms such as mis-reading fuel indication/miles of fuel left, etc., and the consistency of failure forced Audi to acknowledge a design flaw and replace the entire (£500+) unit at their cost should it fail on UK cars up to 5 years old, even out of warranty. One other thought comes to mind - another TT-related issue along the same lines seems to be a failing battery, causing the computer settings to be lost at the time of ignition power-up. Could it be something as simple as this? The easiest, quickest way to understand such a problem is to get either an Audi dealer or someone with a VAG-COM system diagnostic computer to check the engine fault codes - this will pinpoint the error and allow you to solve it more or less immediately. Good luck! Pierson

Don't know if you already have a non-black guard but if so, maybe get it powdercoated? I've just had the headlamp rims done - pair for £15. Just a thought... Pierson

Fantastic, thanks Bruce - BM sent. Kind regards, Pierson

A stone has gone through one of my Cibie headlamps causing water damage to the reflective coating. Anyone got a single 7" Cibie headlamp lens, standard item with main/dip and sidelight fittings? The bulbs I have are fine - just after one glass unit. Cheers, Pierson

Maybe it's a 'taken for granted' in others' instructions, but also remember that the two centre tonneau popper studs pass through the scuttle and self-tap (I believe) into the dash rail immediately beneath the scuttle itself. I speak from bitter experience of wondering why the damn thing wouldn't lift off after removing everything else that others have mentioned.... Pierson

Could it be that some cables are Catholic whilst others aren't? I'll get me coat.... Pierson

I had exactly the same thing happen a while back - 'excess' acid (even though the battery wasn't over full) blew out of the side vent of the Banner battery and made a caustic mess on top of the passenger footwell and alongside the battery tray. Ordinary boiling water will clean things up - you don't have to use bicarb. - and then a metal cleaner of choice (Mother's, Alu, whatever) to get things back to as they were. Worked for me - thankfully the venting acid didn't touch any paint work..... I called Banner's UK distributors and they kindly sent me a vent pipe complete with a 90-degree connector, allowing me to run the tube to underneath the car in front of the footwell in case in happens again. In fact, they sent me two, so if you have a Banner and you want this spare, PM me with your address and I'll stick it in the post to you. Pierson

Blimey, when I first read this: ...I thought that you must have an ENORMOUS fuel tank..... Pierson

I have to get 4 stackable chairs home to Suffolk (just outside Ipswich) at some stage - no distinct timeframe - from my office in Holborn, central London. If anyone has capacity and might be headed east at sometime in the not too distant future I'd be very grateful - please Blatmail me for further details. Thanks, Pierson

Cool - thanks all. My battery has recently vented summit nasty all over the passenger footwell due, I think, to being hooked up to the conditioner too long. Shouldn't happen I guess, but it did. Thankfully it didn't touch any paintwork - left a bubbly, corrosive mess all over the ali instead. Boling water got rid of the worst of that and maybe, perhaps, y'never know one day I'll get around to fully restoring things. 6mm plastic tube it is then. Pierson

Does anyone know if Banner can supply a purpose-made vent tube for the 'standard' battery, hopefully with a connector built-in, or do folks simply make up their own with washer-bottle style tubing? I've e-Mailed Banner but thus far had no response. Pierson

Thanks for your post, Ian - perhaps you're 'sheading some light' on this matter.... (sorry). Our car is 1987 vintage, one of the first de-Dion chassis, so your diagram sounds/looks accurate and contemporary. Well, last night the inevitable happened - used the lights after a run to the monthly Carrotlands meeting and when back in the garage fully expected the problem to remain. But it didn't - the parking light on the NS was on (as was the OS) without the ignition. So - I'm happy, but no closer to understanding why.... There is a small (matchbox-sized) black, finned box plugged into a white connector which eminates from the fusebox under the dash and attached by Velcro to the inside of the scuttle bulkhead - wassat, then? Could that be a separate Dim/Dip control of the same vintage? Please forgive my lack of electrickery knowledge. Any clues? Not so much concerned, just curious. Cheers, Pierson

SM25T is right - with ignition on, both side (sorry, 'parking'...) lights are on when on the first indent of the light switch, then dipped/main with the second (full) indent. But turn off the ignition and it becomes akin to the situation Darren hints at whereby leaving the indicator set in the tintop, for example, offers night parking visibility on one side of the car only. However, in the case of the 7, it's just the NS front that's out, the rears and OS front are on. The car is standard as is the loom. It's not the end of the world 'cos engine running, the car still has full parking lights and I always run full lights anyway. Guess I'll have a peek at the bulb and try swapping it to see what happens. Pierson

I checked my lights yesterday and without the ignition on, had no NS side light, only OS. Turn igntion on and both sides illuminate. Can I assume from this that the side light bulb has a Dim Dip function that has blown on the NS - or is it something altogether more 'fun and interesting'? Pierson

Toothpaste is also rumoured to work.... Never tried it myself but might be worth an initial trial if you want to clean things up quickly. If you do try, let us know how you get on! Pierson