Peter Mears

I am looking to lower the spring rate on the rear Lead units. With 2 .25 being the ID whats the easiest way to get the lenght. If I took the wheel off, let the suspension hang and undid the lock rings would the spring be loose enough to measure. Dont want to unbolt it all just to get a size.

Thanks Roger, had a look today and can see the locknut and screws to which you refer. These carbs are only a year old so hopefully will not be any trouble. Very much looking forward to sorting this as I have been running with a very loud and booming vauxhall race can for a while that was put on in a rush after the smaller diameter one failed. The car was never really set up correctly after I went over to the 45s. Raceline seem to have the specs for taking the chokes down from 40 and to rejet for best driveability. Mr August,keeping it oldskool :)

Yes primaries four into one and silencer. As their website.

I have decided to splash out on a raceline repacable exhaust for my silvertop zetec and after a chat with the guys they are going to supply me with some smaller chokes for the 45s along with some different jets to fit. Hopefully this should reduce noise and help with the general smoothness during the progression part of the fueling. So how do I change the chokes ? Is it a matter of whipping off the trumpets and they just pull out?

After having electrical problems and also a dead battery recently ( It was 15 years old ) I would like to get to grips with using a meter. Can anyone recommend a multimeter for jobs like testing continuity, 12v supply and also charging volts from alternator. Cheers Pete

Just come accross this after searching for the lucas dimdip. Would seem to be a landrover defender part. Says it all really and Ive just spent two days pulling every light out of my car. Time to unplug and forget. It's the Dim-Dip Transformer, it's probably been un-plugged because it's failed. When they fail - Dipped Beam comes on and stays on, even with the master lighting switch in the off position. The Transformer costs a small fortune to replace and, as Dim-Dip is no longer a requirement, I would leave it un-plugged. PRC6336 - Dim-Dip Transformer for Sealed-Beam Headlamps - £149.39 inc VAT

Update.... Thanks to JK and the correct fuse board diagram I have fixed the problem by removing the fuse called dim/dip. it only affects this function and being that what i think is the unit producing dim/dip was warm to the touch i beleive I have found the problem. Does anyone know if I can get a new unit and should the white plug come out of the top of it. The unit sits to the left of the fuse board is black with and about 2' x 2' and has a fluted heat disperent front. As I do not have intermitant wiper it can only be what I think. Having the wrong fuse board layout had me chasing rad fan switches and all sorts of circuits. Then with a dieing battery things looked even worse. I have seen cars with bad earth problems such as mk3 escorts light up like xmas trees in the past and thought thats where I was, so glad to finaly sort. Now to find a replacment unit if they still exist, thanks for all the input. Pete

Have now discovered that the fogs work on high beam as well and that the right hand side stop light does not work but the other does. My fuse board does not line up with an owners manual I have so making it difficult, it shows injection fuses and the holes aren't even there on mine. Next call will be the fog lights and as I said all the wire conectors under the wing. Is there another fuse board layout diagram avaliable for the older cars. Thanks for the direction Roger

So I've cured the problem by taking out the fuse to the dip beam. But seriously, the fuse for brakes also cures the front but you still can get a glow from the brakes so I believe the big cluster of wires behind the wheel in all the wet need investigation. To be continued...............

Thismorning I have pulled out and also swopped relays around but the lights still stay on. Another thought is the funny side lights I have. When you turn them on you get the little 5w bulb illuminate, but once the ignition is on and the engine running you get a dimmed headlight as well. This goes to full power when the switch is in position two. I beleive this was a fitment back in 1989 and over the 20 years ive had the car it has always worked fine. Have i missed a relay or somthing that would operate this function. This is starting to get on my nerves now :)

Relays next point of call, ran out of steam with it last night will post how I get on in the daylight.

Next to the relay and fuse box is a small black square unit with a multiplug at the top. What is this and should this be warm to the touch. Relays seem good and main beam switching over fine.

Have been pointed to an old thread that suggests rear light earth and 12v feeding back so with the fuse having blown on the stop lights will try there.

Okay with all the switches out the lights are still on , any other earths to check

The lights stay on even when the switch is disconected !

Went to Stoneleigh in the wet today and on arriving the main beam would not switch off. Pulled the switch out and no change, all other lights work normally and the switch does turn on the side lights correctly. Lights dim slightly when the switch is used to attemp to turn off. So its just the dipped main bulb lights that are on constantly none of the back are a problem and main beam switch and flash are fine. The only thing I found was a 7.5 fuse gone but that was affecting the brake lights only and replacing this has made no change to the front dip being on all the time. Any ideas for other things to check, all a bit random really. Cheers Pete

Am I right in thinking the ones that "Arno" has are very rare and of a limited run back in the day.

Thanks guys, so that's the birthday money seen off and it will be tools for Xmas. Now where to buy the tank from ??

For the rough price I want to pay I can only find 50l 7.8CFM. Has anyone got this spec and will it be close enough to the suggested spec of OBNS.

Considering a battery Impact driver for wheel changing but it would it be a one trick pony and sit around most of the time. For similar money I could get a compressor, the tools are much cheaper and could be used for sanding, bike tyres etc as well. So advise needed as to what to buy for very light garage work. What sort of capacity will I need. Hopefully someone has a set up that works well for them.

Yes but do you still have all your teeth

Hi Nick I have a set of five in the loft that I was keeping as spares, they are original black and ali but would need a refurb. The casting on these wheels were poor quality at the time and can suffer from pressure loss, I fixed one of mine with a few coats of clear lacquer on the back of the wheel. The fit is dedion and I think these look great as I also have an 1988 car. Not sure what these are worth so make me an offer. Might need to know where you are as posting is probably not easy.

I took my copper rad in to them as they are just down the road. Very helpful and showed me the Ali comparision to check fitment even though I had no plans of changing at that time. Charged me £60 to braze top and bottom of mine. I now have a plan to upgrade to Ali over the winter and they told me they have them in stock normally.

Oh hell, the only tyre Ive ever used apart from 32s on track. What else do they make thats E marked then?

Newcastle test centre whilst getting my MOT