paul jacobs

For anyone interested, I have ended up buying a brand new car, something I really wanted to avoid. However, I'm running it through my company, so can write off the depreciation against any profit I might be lucky enough to make. I was on my way to check out a Peugeot e-308, highly regarded by Autocar, when I passed an MG dealer. Yes, I know - Chinese, but actually the Chinese, for all their difficulties, can make some pretty good stuff if they want to. Long story short etc, I have ended up buying an MG5 Estate car, which should be perfect for all the running around journeys, with its range of 200 miles +/-. I didn't get the best deal, because I really need it right now, but got a bit of a deal and am collecting it on Monday the 1st Nov. Watch this space (or one close by) for more info.

Shows how much I know, I meant to say Nissan Leaf, or a Zoe or I3s, e-Up etc etc.

I'm interested in dipping my toe into the Electric car experience, but don't want to sell the present fleet, so only want an older car car to play with, does anyone have something like a Note or similar they want to sell? Also any advice would be welcome, as all this electrickery stuff is new and alien to me. Thanks, Paul.

I need to get an engine wiring loom made up for a 2.3 Duratec, for which I already have an Omex 710 ECU. Should I go to Omex or can anyone recommend someone else I should approach, especially if they are in the South West where I live? How much should I expect to pay?

I hope no low flying moles were hurt in the making of that ridiculous video? Mr. Snoates, you should know better than to glorify the destruction of deaf and blind mamils.

Hi David, Thanks for your analysis, which mirror my thoughts. I did refill with GL4, and am happy to try again, the clutch did not have much left at the very bottom of its' travel, but it is definitely disengaging now after 20k miles, but someone did tell me that anything but a OE clutch would give me trouble, how, I don't know though? Paul.

This is a really weird problem on my 2009, 80,000 mile Toyota HiLux pickup. A couple of years ago, at 50,000 miles, I had to have a new clutch fitted because someone who used it managed to burn out the original. At the same time I asked that the gearbox oil be renewed whilst underneath. I understand that the garage did not used an original Toyota clutch, however, when I got it back I had various problems, the main one being a difficulty engaging 1st and 2nd when the oil is hot, say after 20 minutes or more of running. I have since changed the oil to the recommended viscosity but it did not improve the problem, yet when the oil is cold, it engages perfectly well, which would indicate an oil problem. It is slowly getting worse and is now almost impossible to get into gear from a standstill, unless I stop the engine and start again in gear. A pain in slow moving traffic! Before I spend a couple of thousand £££ does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this annoying fault? Thanks in advance. Paul. I

Just out of interest, although I'm not an expert on Series 2 Sevens, I doubt it would be the original engine, I think yours would originally have been fitted with a BMC A series, or a pre X/F 1340 or 1500, maybe a Climax, though I suspect only Series 1s had those. Does it say anything about an engine change on the V5 or even the original buff or green log book if you have it?

Hi Peter, As it happens I do have half hood available and no car to fit it on any longer. PM me your email address and I can send you some pictures and a description. It's all in good nick and I can vouch that it is definitely better than the standard hood. Paul.

Deposit taken, so off the market.

Quaife ATB Diff. in Sierra housing. A 3.62 cwp Sierra diff. unit complete with Quaife ATB lsd. Taken from a bike engined Seven as longer ratio required. It has covered approx. 22,000 miles and, when installed, was quiet and seemed to be working perfectly. Try me with a close offer, in the region of £725 ono. PM me with your email address for internal pictures etc. Preferably collect from Taunton or courier at cost. Paul.

Thanks Nick, but it looks like a little too much work for me and no V5 . Paul.

Now surplus to requirements. A 700mm prop shaft originally out of a Ford 5 speed CSR 200, but understand it will also fit all SV models. It has done approx. 7,000 miles and is in excellent condition, all labels still attached. I would consider offers around the £85 mark? (I believe this is about half of the new price). Pictures available. Paul.

Thanks for your thoughts both. Rob, I think you are probably right about the thermostat being an 82 degree one. Are there any markings I could look for? I will change the thermostat first, as it is an easier job I fancy, then see what happens to the temperatures after that.

Thanks for the heads up Andrew, I've sent a message.

This is a long shot, but does anyone have, or know of, a part built or non started kit, either basic chassis body unit with or without other parts. I am willing to collect from most places and obviously prepared to pay cash on collection. I am a long standing club member currently without a Seven and I want to build up a car for myself, I am not a dealer looking for a quick profit. Paul.

I'm not sure about the pulleys, but it does have a dry sump fitted from Cosworth, it's a separate tank, not a bellhousing one. My thoughts about running higher oil temperature were similar to yours and whilst quicker warm up is good, longer term running, with oil temperature too low isn't. I'm guessing the oil should be around 80 - 90 when hot, although interestingly my Golf R runs at around 105, but it is turbo'd which might affect it.

Thanks, I'll double check.

My clutch is set up for a type 9 gearbox, however I will be moving the engine into a chassis already fitted with a Mazda 5 speed box, can anyone tell me if the 1st motion shaft dimensions and splines are the same, or will the clutch plate have to be changed?

I'm a little concerned because my Cosworth Duratec 2.0l 225bhp engine, fitted with a Modine heat exchanger seems to be running very cool. The water temperature rarely goes over 80, and under normal running is around 65 -70 even in summer, the oil temperature however rarely even gets to 50 except in traffic when both water and oil temp rise to maybe 85 for water and 65 for oil. I am considering a couple of options, either change the thermostat, though I don't know what Cosworth fitted as standard, or disconnect the Modine, which intercepts water from the block to the heater. Before I start messing around does anyone have any ideas on this please?

That is what I understood too Charles, but I'm afraid I have no hard and fast data to back that up.

I don't know if you've done your flat floor yet, but if not it may be worth having a look around locally to save a run up to Millwoods, who are very good, but a long way away. I've just done a quick Google search, so know nothing about them, and come up with EXE-TC Competition Suspension at Sowton - 01392 444490. Not Seven specialists admittedly, but the suspension on our cars is not difficult to set up and any company who regularly works on competition cars should have no trouble setting up a Sevens suspension. You might have to furnish them with a few parameters, but I'm sure there will be people here who would be glad to help you. If you try them and find they can do it, it would be nice to put a post up here to let all the other SW area club members know. Best of luck. Paul.

Great news Mark, it's always fulfilling when a simple mod. does the job - so much cheaper and easier than a cracked sump. Talking of which, I did once hit a large rock with mine, and all it did was take a chunk out of one of the cooling fins, it could have been so much worse.

Colin, a good issue to bring up. There is always someone else with the same problem, in this case me. I have a 2l Cosworth 220bhp Duratec in my car, a very similar engine to yours, but my engine temp. barely reaches 80 in normal driving and is often around 75. In traffic it will get up to around 90 but I have rarely had it high enough for the fan to kick in. I have always been a little concerned that it is running too cool, but haven't got around to doing anything about it yet. I guess the obvious first thing is to change the thermostat temp, but I can't believe that Cosworth would have sent out their engine with the wrong thermostat fitted? I will be very interested in your findings and anyone elses' experience.

So, actual purchase price - £33,600. My guess is that's about right, although nowhere near the reputed asking price on Pistonheads of nearly £42k though. I think the purchaser should be pleased with that?