Mechanical Moz

Land Rover have said anything from 1996 onwards is compatible so all the Rover bits should be fine. That just leaves the rubber hoses, the original hoses on my 1998 car are SAE J30 R6 so I intend to replace them with R9 from a reputable source in the winter.

https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=195&aspect=45&diameter=15&wheelwidth=6&offset=50&width2=195&aspect2=50&wheel_size=15&wheel_width=6&offset2=50 This calculator shows the speedo error, a 3.39% reduction in indicated speed going from 45 to 50 section.

After sitting idle in an unheated detached garage for 5 months I checked the voltage on my Amazon bargain Skyrich lithium battery and it was 13.4V. Unfortunately I hadn't taken a reading back when it was parked up to compare. Car (1.8K) started on the first turn of the key. Car has an isolator switch but other than that I gave it zero attention over winter, happy with that result.

What is the width of the gap between the teeth? I can produce a 3D cad model if anyone needs one, my car doesn't have the ring for me to check though.

#3 - Their sister site https://reluctorrings.com/ says if the car isn't listed by them and you're the first person to request one they'll make it for free. Worth an ask JV?

I've had this Sealey mat for over 10 years now and it's been much more durable than I ever expected. Very handy being able to wipe dry if it gets any fluids on it. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/sealey-foldable-mechanics-work-mat-vs858-seavs858/ I find anything with really small castors needs a smooth floor to not be frustrating to use.

I'm also trying to choose a replacement 15" tyre. Went from T1R to Yoko AD08R last time which was an improvement, both 195/50 and clear the wings and stays by a few mm. I do some track days so looking at semi slicks this time, R888R are the front runners as I've driven a car with them on and really liked them. I am intrigued by the Zestino Gredge 07RS soft compound https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/zestino-gredge-semi-slick-tyres-2012154/ Nankang NS-2Rs are also on my shortlist as I've heard a few positive reports, the AR-1 seems a little extreme maybe for when I get caught in heavy rain.

You should use coloured LEDs behind the coloured lenses for maximum brightness. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/blogs/news/why-you-should-not-use-white-leds-behind-coloured-lenses

Given the amazing work done by Revilla creating his mapping tool is the Emerald still necessary on a car with MEMS3? Can the IACV be used with the Jenveys, do they have a port for idle control?

I managed to pick one of these up for a bargain £44 back in March https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GZCNIWI/ to replace a dead Banner. Thought I'd take a punt at that price, if it was no good for the 7 then it was destined for the mower. So far working just fine on my 1.8K, I have a battery isolator fitted and don't use a conditioner with it.

Looks like Elise Parts sell a phosphor bronze cup upgrade (assuming they fit the Caterham rack - I don't personally know). Do they look like the cups in the Caterham rack? https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/steering-br-suspension-1/steering-ancillaries/2-x-steering-rack-phosphor-bronze-cups/

That's awesome, great to see that it's being used with success by lots of folk.

I had these same problems with a Brise starter. It was quite old and I didn't get any response to an email to Brise (the starter was old and on the car when I bought it to be fair) so I bought a WOSP. It's exactly the same motor with exactly the same problem. I've replaced the cables to the starter with new 25mm2 cable with professionally crimped lugs, no FIA switch either. Same problem on both the original EU2 engine and replacement EU3 with a different ECU and MRFU and I've been through the 12V supply to the ECU cleaning and replacing connectors. Replacing the original Banner with one of the Ultramax 20Ah units fixed it for a summer but then it started happening the following spring. Battery on a CTEK conditioner during the summer and disconnected during the winter. Stored in a warm dry garage. Replaced the Ultramax with a new Banner, fixed it for a couple of summers then it started again. I have a LiFePo4 unit to try in a couple of weeks when I put the car back on the road.

Did you ever try the 5w50? I'm trying to decide which way to go with the next oil change. I ran the Comma 5w50 in my old EU2 VVC but went to 10w40 semi synthetic on my rebuilt EU3 VVC. The oil pressure drop off when used on track days seemed higher though so I went back to the 5w50. I'm pondering if a 10w40 fully synth would be better under the demands of track use. Or maybe a 5w40? It should be the same viscosity once warm and there is a much broader choice of oils in that grade.

How long roughly does it take to empty the sump on an Apollo car Paul? It gives a flow rate of 0.2l/min for engine oil @60degC with a max run time of 30 minutes. Is the actual flow rate much better than that or does it really take 35 minutes to empty 7 litres of warm oil out of the engine? I have a large pneumatic vacuum pump but recently it seems to work about as slowly as above and requires my small compressor to run flat out so I don't like using it.

You could have a good one scanned and then 3D print replicas, it may be prohibitively expensive though. I threw a perfectly good one away a few years ago, it didn't even cross my mind that it would be something that would be difficult to obtain sorry.

The thin spindle nuts are made of cheese (actually they might be plated brass) and are really easy to strip or cross thread. On classics that live a life exposed to the elements it's common for the nuts to corrode on to the wheelbox and round off with very little effort. Or shear the wheelbox, I've had both happen in the past. I've rebuilt these wiper systems a few times, replacing the wheelbox is as you describe. It's well worth pulling the cable out and cleaning all the old grease out of the system then re-greasing. You don't notice the gradual slowing down of the system as the grease goes hard over time until you see the wipers whipping across the screen after servicing. Not a problem with new wheelboxes but if reusing the older ones it's worth inspecting the shoulder on the spindle groove where the arm clip sits. The edge can wear rendering the clip useless and the arm can fly off, likely at the worst possible time and in the worst possible place. Assemble so that any worn part of the shoulder is not where the arm clip will sit.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/updates The MOT manual has been updated to indicate LED replacement bulbs in halogen units should be a fail.

Lotus Elan S4 DIY EV conversion. 28kWh battery capacity, 30kg lighter than it started. I think for a Caterham putting an EV drive unit where the diff is makes the most packaging sense. Problem with using one from an existing EV is going to be the gearing, might need to fit the wheels from that Grand Tour Caterham.

Fitted to the MR2 this evening, it didn't have very good lights and I'm impressed with the difference. Just been for a drive in the dark down some unlit lanes and I can actually see far enough down the road to maintain a decent speed. Halogens that came out were Osram standard 60/55 H4. Definitely £20 well spent.

I picked up the Novsight ones on an Amazon Black Friday deal, going to try them on my MR2 and eventually transfer to the 7. Will try and get some before/after pics. They have come with a pair of white cotton gloves in the box just in case I need to urgently referee a snooker match, handle the Magna Carta or pretend to be the thumb up emoji.

My 1.8 VVC was 107kg dry with alternator, inlet manifold, loom and TTV lightweight flywheel. That didn't include an exhaust manifold or starter motor.

There are some bosses with M8 tapped holes in the head just below the cam ladder. You can attach lifting eyes or swivel hoist rings to them.

I got mine from this ebay seller last year. Had to use it once on my daily, really easy and it was in the outer half of a front so I didn't even have to jack it up. https://ebay.us/Mhq51A

I would also recommend buying from oilyhands. I originally used an OEM gasket set from Rimmers and one of the valve stem seals failed big time after 1500 miles. I replaced with seals from Dave which I believe he has made for him.