millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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a CERTAIN sTEVE fOSTER IS ALSO TRYING ducting at the moment. Perhaps he'll chome in soon with his experience of ducting? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Piers, can you check your hotmail I need to contact you. Thanks very much all for your help. We're investigating the contacts supplied. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Make sure that yoyu get the heavy duty spring that holds you in gear. Mine kept popping out of gear which is really annoying Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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anyone had the problem of polishing the mudguards and they go all white? How do you abvoid this -do you laquer them first? If so, how reliable is the laquer finish? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Can anyone help me with the technology / method required to create a carbon / aluminium honeycomb composite panel (double skinned carbon). I need to visit a compnay already involved in working prepregs or similar as I've been asked to develop the technology in house (we make boats) very quickly. Need help. Anyone? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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I took a while for me to clear the air from my engine. Keep an eye on the header tank (difficult as it's tucked away) for a few months (dependent on use). Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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No idea really. Open the rad vent and watch the water flood out? ☹️ Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Forgot about this - if you have the K series header tank the engine is a bugger to bleed of air fully. You have to lift the front of the car off the ground as much as you can and then run the engine (cap off I think) at about 3K rpm and you should see air coming out. Keep an eye on the water level for this reason too as it does self bleed over time and you seem to be for ever pouring water in until it all settles out. You may think you've already done this but I bet there's air in there somewhere. If you need a more detailed explanation call James Whiting I imagine he'll be his usually helpful self. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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this is normal I think, mine does it anyway. The temperature is read directly it exits the cylinder head so you should expect this as it hasn't yet been cooled. If you can test the water as it exits the radiator it should be ok. For piece of mind you could try relocating the temp sensor. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Hijack - My under dash handbrake 'rings' at times. Any idea how to fix it. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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I had the same thing on my XF. Don't run it. I suspect that your clutch is dead. When I removed the clutch my clutch springs fell out, some had broken. New clutch, no problems. ☹️
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Would I be correct to assume that the pushod ronts would not fit a 94 car with the old (lower) mounting points for the dampers? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Consider your pump jets. If it hesistates as you squeeze the throttle it may be that they could be improved. Speak to Roger K. for advice / sales! Don't know how easy they are to swap though as he did mine for me. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Ralph - What did he actually do to resolve your problem (as progression requires drillings)? Also Matt - how does a 195 give 210 anyway? Are you using 45s or TBs and if 45s, what chokes? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs Edited by - millsn on 13 Dec 2002 17:15:18
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I used Dunnell myself (165 brake). No complaints about their work although the progression jetting on carb is suspect. My advice? Go to whomever is nearest to you because you'll inevitably go there more than once. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Seemed like a good question to me? Will you be putting it forward to Top Gear to put the Westfield in its place? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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My zetec has its temp sensor immediately after the point where the water leaves the head. therefore you see the actual exit temp of the water, not the temp that the engine actually sees. Where in the water circuit is your temp gauge sender and is it the correct one for the gauge? Also - I see a higher temp reading from my gauge when the earth to it is dodgy. I.e. if I switch on the lights my temps appear to go up. Is your earth doing a good job? Your gauge will over-read if it isn't. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs Edited by - millsn on 3 Sep 2002 19:32:59
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The reason it's done that is in your question I think. The bush shouldn't be oily at all. You probably have a diff leak which drops onto your rubbers and knackers them very quickly. Sort the diff / engine breather oil leak and your rubbers should last longer. s any girl will tell you. oily rubbers are not desirable. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Very limited knowledge here but when I spoke to Mr.Perks it seemed to be the revs that the box would see that bothered him most and not power / torque figures. Using lots of revs? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Steve I think that to run shorter springs (assuming similar rates) in order to use the upper pick ups on the tube you'd want to use the shorter damper bodies too. Careful what valving you end up with. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Dampers can 'top out'. This occurs if you've adjustable platforms or posibly if you've got you bilsteins with their circlips which support your non adjustable platforms on the wrong groove. this is especially likely if (like me) you're heavy yourself as you tend to wind the rear ride heights up to compensate. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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What exactly is it that a dry sump does and does anyone have any plumbing schematics they could send me? How does the crank get supplied with oil if there is no reservoir for it to pass through? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Possibly a hole in the radiator eaking a small amount of water? Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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Maybe oversimplifying, but the dampers on the newer cars are longer and need a lower mounting point to maintain the same ride height. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs
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you can bend the piece of mtal that activates the switch although whether it's possible by using the pedal is debateable. Before replacing the switch just check that it doesn't just need 'a bit more bend' on the pedal to activate it (i.e. a bit moe switch travel). Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs