marcos59

Thanks for all answers. Your right RH/LH cylinders seem to be the same. In fact car it stuck in a friend house at 500kms of me...so everything is much more complicated to see/understand and explain to my friend ! Thanks a lot

Elie, I think I didn't well understand your answer: Do you mean it is a marina one because on the ford one the brake cylinder is held differently? If it is problem is that a set of marina cylinder look like THIS with a bleed screw on each. and this very differentof one fitted to my car without blee screw like THAT

Hi Elie. So it is a Ford brake cylinder on an Ital axle? Do you know from witch car it come from? With a quick look on eBAy I didn't find a similar one without bleed screw ...

I hope I will find the answer here (if not where ? 😬) MOT problem on my car because of a faulty rear brake cylinder. It is a strange one and definitively not look like a marina one... I desesperatly need someone able to recognize itto help me to find one. I start to think it could not be a marina axle but a Ford one... Brake cylinder pic here Thanks for your help 😶‍🌫️

MBE Ecu failure 😔...mean no budget this month for wheels I'm affraid However as bulk buy are often quite long to set up I could be in for a set at the end of November...but nothing sure at the moment

Interrested by a set of: 1370 1385

Paul, At least pot throttle problem is solved...thanks for your help I have removed loom: No relay anywhere. SBD (Steve Broughton) answered me today: Rev limit light always on is not a good news and it seem that ECU is damaged. I think we have done together all possible tests on loom and sensors. I will try to go to Croix en Ternois track day with car and trailer. Perhaps Arnie will find something with laptop and easimap. Your help have been very appreciated many thanks Paul Regards Huggy/Nicolas

Back from garage..... Paul many thanks for your call to SBD. This is where I am tonight: 1 ELECTRONICS GROUND To sensors and car chassis (BLACK) Loom tested OK and 0V OK 2 ECU SUPPLY +12V To Battery +ve relay controlled (PINK) Loom tested OK and 12V OK 3 IGNITION COIL DRIVE 1 To coil pin 1 (BLACK/WHITE) Loom tested OK and 12V ok with ignition on 4 LAMBDA If not use, GROUND to pin 1 Not used (injection) 5 LOAD (THROTTLE POT) REFERENCE To throttle Pot supply (RED) Loom tested OK and 5V OK 6 CRANK SENSOR SPEED SIGNAL To Crankshaft Signal (Sensor Pin 02) (BLACK/WHITE)Loom tested OK 7 AIR TEMP SENSOR SIGNAL To Air Temp Sensor 1 (Sensor Ground to ECU 01) (GREEN) Not used (Injection) 8 COOLANT TEMP SIGNAL To Coolant Temp Sensor 1 (Sensor Ground to ECU 01) (BLUE) Not used (injection) 9 POWER GROUND 1) To ECU Loom Braid (BRAID) I do not understand what it is and what difference is with Pin1 10 IGNITION COIL DRIVE 2 To coil pin 2 (GREEN/WHITE) Loom tested OK and 12V ok when ignition on 11 INJECTOR DRIVE (GROUPED INJECTORS) To all injectors Pin 1 (Pin 2’s to be connected to separate +12V Not used (Injection) 12 CRANK SENSOR SPEED RETURN To Crankshaft Return Sensor Pin 01 (BLACK) Loom tested OK 13 TACHOMETER SIGNAL To Tacho (GREEN/WHITE) Loom tested OK 14 GEARSHIFT LIGHT To –VE side of gearchange lamp (GREY) Still 0V so explain why shift light light is on. I just need 12V here but do not understand how to do or what problem couls be if there is no faulty relay and in fact no relay at all ! 15 LOAD (THROTTLE POT) SIGNAL To Throttle Pot Signal (Throttle pot return to ECU 01) (YELLOW) (Green on my car) Loom tested OK and Dismantled from carbs value change from 0V to 5V: Perfect ! In fact the spindle was unscrewed..so no modification of value even carbs butterfly was open or closed - Crank sensor swap OK - Throttle pot test OK - Coil swap OK Any relay found....will remove full loom from car if necessary but I'm 99% sure there is no relay. So last question is why I do not have 12V on pin 14 when ignition is on if there is no faulty relay ?

Many thanks for your help it is very appreciated ! *thumbup* I will check further more tonight but I can already say: - Shift light = normal bulb (not LED) - Pin 5 tested from loom - Pin 14 tested from ECU - Pin 15 tested from ECU I will remove throttle pot from crabs tonight to see if it is a setting problem or if it is still allways say 4.8V Regards

Hi, They are more difficult to bend. Powerspeed in Kent bend some home made CDS door bars to finish my wooden chassis Marcos rollcage 2 years ago. Great job and friendly service

Upgrading for wide track but I do not love steering rack extension. I would prefer to change "short" track control arms + extension for proper wide track ones. But how to do it ? Do I need to remove steering rack ? or can it be done in situ ? I never do it before and would like to know if it is an easy job, how to do it and where I could found a technical drawing of our steering rack. Thanks !

Thanks BIO and Willie You're right Willie. In fact Hi Specs calipers was already used on my std track and needed banjo (not straight). I will doubke check theorical +2inch/side and full lock measure Thanks

I'm currently converting my car from std to wide track I use Hi specs calipers and need different braied hoses than CC ones However my std suspension parts have been already sold so I'm unable to check how longer lower wishbone is and how longer bake hoses need to be So I need someone who could let me know how wider a wide track is to have my new brake hose made to order Thanks

In fact question is where pin 14 come from ? From key ignition switch ? Is something could be simply disconected there ?!

More investigation this WE without result ☹️ @ Arnie: Many thanks: YHM regarding checking ECU on a laptop @ Paul : Pin 5 checked: 5V: Perfect Pin 15 checked: 4.8V all time You said it should vary between 0.4V and 4V depending throttle pedal position: Electronic problem? or perhaps just mechanical issue (wrong ajustment on butterfly: say open when close). But anyway could it do not start just because throttle potentiometer do not work or badly adjusted? (It may cause a bad advance curve but not nill spark isn't it?) Pin 14 checked: 0V (Not 12V) so at least explain why rev lmiter light is always on. So question is why I do not have 12V on pin 14 ?! I have check coil connector: Pin 3 and 10 have +-12V with ignition ON and when starter motor is running. Last one (not connected to ECU?) have permanent 12V. Is that correct ? I do not find any relay Nothing separatly Nothing "build in" I assume you mean build into the loom ??? Are these relay in ECU ? (Can send a pic of ECU interior if needed. I assume they can't be on original caterham fuse box Many thanks for your help !! Still not answer from SBD an my technical english is not good enough to give them a call an explain/understand what happen.

Could be interrested too

Thanks for all replies @ andy_h: I do not have master switch @ Steve: No inertia switch no solution there ! @ Paul: - I heard fuel pump - Carbs are full of fuel - Sparks smell fuel - I have fitted exchange crank sensor with a friend zetec caterham: Friend car started with my sensor..my car didn't start with his sensor. So not a crank sensor issue However my shift light is now bright all time when ignition is on and even when starter motor is running. I think (As I'm now a bit confused with all my tests ) shift light brighted briefly as you described when car running sweetly few days ago. Does it mean that ignition is cut by ecu itself ? (It seem to be what shift light say) If it is I have no chance to see engine start I have check another time full loom: Nothing special Nothing have been modify just before problem happen. Car have been parked in my garage with no problem..and didn't start on next WE What could I test further more before send it back in UK? (SBD seem to not answer emails 😔 are they recognise to have a good service 🤔) Thanks Edited by - marcos59 on 17 Sep 2009 20:30:44

Sorry for my bad technical english On a 1.8 Zetec on carbs with MBE ECU 956 Model Engine do not start: No spark on plugs Rev cut light is bright when ignition is on (Was not in my memory when car running OK but I(m unsure now ) Is that a symptom of problem on ECU? Everything else have been checked (coil,crank sensor,buterfly sensor, water temp sensor and loom)without result. Any avice about how to check it warmly welcome ! I will prefer to be sure that problem come from ECU before send it back in UK Thanks for your help

Thanks for your answer Peter. Not what I'm looking after in fact. Anyone else interrested ?

Rog, YHM regarding Fuel filler casting

YHM

Thanks for your answer Norman. However I do not want to cut/drill chassis I hope to find a solution with bushes. Y9 are not the right ones..I currently working on original one piece one grinding 0.1mm it to fit front wishbone effortless as old 2 pieces bushes fit pre 1996 wishbone.

I have small problems to convert my car with pre 1996 chassis to wide track. And sorry in advance for my poor technical english 😬 See this album for pics First problem: Lower wishbone will need washers as WT wishbone fitting points are just a bit wider than original wishbones: where I need to put them? On front or rear fitting point to be as near as possible of factory caster setting? Second problem:As chassis is different (superlight chassis use a big/long bolt and nut for front wishbone fitting point / Pre 1996 have a chassis extension an use a small bolt) I'm unable to put wishbone in place because of one part bush (original wishbones used 2x Y9 bush and allow an easy fitment.....but when I put Y9 on WT wishbone they seem too small but seem to do the job when tighten.. And as std front supension have been sold I'm unable to compare size between both wishbone type Any advice ? Are Y9 the right ones to use and if not witch one? MAny thanks ! 😶‍🌫️

2° dibs.......just in case

Thanks ECR