neilg

Thanks guys for all your advice. I am indeed going to send all the parts to Arch and let them do it all. They have all the requisite equipment and I know a quality job. Spoke to them this morning and Phil informs me they do it all the time. Will save many expletives and accidental chips I suspect. Cheers Neil

I'm refreshing my car and to that end have taken all the front suspension and rear Watts linkage and A frame off the car. I will then remove all the old bushes. My question is do you then get all the bush orifices powder coated and then push new bushes in or do you somehow block off the holes so they aren't powdercoated. Or do you get the wishbones etc powdercoated and then remove powdercoating where the bushes reside before pressing new ones in? or get the whole thing powdercoated , leave the orifice powdercoated and press new bushes in. Not done this before so sorry if this is a stupid question. Is powder coating all the same or are there different types or thickness?? Any advice appreciated as are any other tips re refreshing all these parts. Finally standard Caterham bushes or fancy Poly bushes ?? Best regards Neil

Hi, after left and right sidescreen for S3 imperial chassis in decent condition please if anyone has a pair sitting around. Thanks Neil

Hi, I'm altering my S3 Blackbird to accept Windscreen and as such i need :- 1. Windscreen Black 2. Black Stantions 3. Complete windscreen wiper assembly and wipers . 4. Washer assembly. 5. Doors Thanks Neil

Still for sale ?? ta Neil

Hi Clive, I've messaged you but if its for sale and fits a imperial S3 chassis from 2000 ( Blackbird ) de dion i'll have it. I've just removed an old tall roadsport cage so my has all the bosses and brackets I believe. See message. Many thanks Neil

Another one gone sausage side. I'll have the only Blackbird left in the country at this rate!!! Cheers Neil

[ Edited by - neilg on 19 Jun 2014 00:12:21

Katie, you may have to look at that price I'm afraid.

Don't worry about minute differences in rake here , camber there, blah blah. just bolt em on and go like hell. Unless you're at and over the limit all the time steering on the throttle and generally pretty good all round on a circuit you're unlikely to need to bugger around too much. Ive got all sorts of tyres and wheel combinations and never bother too much faffing around for a track day. The biggest difference is that slicks are: 1. Cheap....i've got a second hand set that cost £50-00 for four and have done over eight trackdays with them. 2. Progressive once warm....so you can slide them with more confidence. 3. Very good on a damp track....once heat into them. 4. Braking is far better . 5. Look cooler...and that's important 😬 😬 Obviously if you're racing all of the above out of the window in the search for a few tenths here and there but for a trackday just bolt them on and go play. You'll love them.

Hi there, I've got standard blackbird set up. It's true that there is a slight misalignment in the system. I haven't found it a problem though . I presume you have the rubber doughnut Cush drive unit between engine output and first props haft with three bolts in each It is a general motors unit , off a senator I think. It does deteriate with age but I've only changed mine once in four years. What problem are you having once it is all bolted up? If you like you can contact me direct on blatmail . Cheers Neil

I've got one of the original Jordan Blackbirds and now in Buzzin Hornet livery as apposed to Benson and Hedges! In four years and many many trackdays i've come to learn how to drive it to minimise gearbox issues. I've got a couple of engines and a Nova gearbox although the present gearbox is standard. Brilliant fun , great noise, just different to the car engine cars and you just adapt driving style, particularly the downshifts to be sympathetic to the fact that the dogs are as big as your front teeth. Cheers

Thanks for all your input guys, sorry I haven't replied sooner. What I am experiencing is that when really tanking on the suspension feels under damped and not under as much control as I would like. The suspension is undergoing full travel and the odd bottoming out. I think I may try a tad harder spring . One things for sure on m1's it felt too hard and not compliant enough. It may be that adjustable dampers are the way to go but I want to try some springs first as they are cheap and see how we go. Thanks for all your replies. Cheers Neil

Now following our trip to cadwell and then the TT i have got to know my car a bit better after changing my Blackbird from M1 dampers and standard springs on the front , M1 dampers and green springs on back to standard M0 dampers and springs all round. The reason i changed was because it was far too hard on the road and the car was jumping around all over the place. Now with standard set up it is much improved on the road in general driving and pootling . BUT once tanking on , and the Isle of Man highlighted it perfectly , it all gets a bit limited with not as much control as i would like. SO..seeing that the M1's were too hard should i go up a spring rate with the standard dampers, and if so what is next up the hardness rating? I also have an orange ARB which i believe is the slimmest. Any thoughts? I know i would like super dooper Nitrons or Ohlins but ££££££'S Cheers Neil

Hi , like you I'm having no joy on the farm, bloody weather, so spent the morning fiddling with the caterham. Are you going to get that car on track now? No excuse. Cadwell in May perhaps?? cheers Neil

Hmm transmission tunnel reverse switch could be possibility as I have no reversing gearbox sensor due to BEC and connectors could still be there flailing around the props aft. I'll have a look underneath. Also brake switch connector by clutch pedal. Thanks Neil

So I put a new fuse in and it works ok. I drive it a while and eventually fuse blows so no brake lights. Where should I look first.? Any help gratefully received. Cheers Neil

I'm ok for this Geoff, I'll ring Sam and sort tomorrow. Cheers neil

Well, she's had her puppies, all 8 of them last sunday. Mother, my wife and puppies all doing well. Sample photo here We had 6 dogs and 2 bitches. One of the bitches is already spoken for but if anyone interested in a miniature labradoodle will all documentation please give me a ring on 07766912648 or blatmail me. They are tiny at the moment ( about 8 inches) but will be opening their eyes soon. I can send photos if anyone interested. The bitch is £700-00 and the boys are £600-00. Beware they are very cute 😬 Thanks Neil Edited by - neilg on 7 Jul 2012 15:17:08

YHM as well 😬 Cheers. Two weeks to go now....

Hopefully due in a months time or so but if anyone in the market or interested in having a miniture labrodoodle puppy please blatmail me. Our dog , Jess, is a two year old cross of yellow labrador and white miniature poodle ( don't laugh ) so is about spaniel sized. We have mated her with another miniature poodle sire of top quality reputation to get a curlier coat. She is a very very child / baby friendly house pet without any vices at all. Anyway she comes from a very good home and has all her correct documentation and is her first litter. More information can be obtained by blatmailing me. I will obviously post details of puppies when born. Regards Neil Edited by - neilg on 11 Jun 2012 15:12:34 Edited by - neilg on 11 Jun 2012 15:13:29

Yep, great day, and Geoff cleverly organised all sorts of different grip levels constantly changing throughout the day. He also waited until i had my rear slicks on before ordering that heavy lunchtime shower. Knackered today.... Cheers Geoff

Having a go at cleaning up my Barnbys today and a couple have had wheel weights at some time of their life before i had them stuck on the outside face. These have been taken off leaving long black sticky lines of adhesive. Whats the best method of removing the stuff without scrathing the face. Tried white spirit and wheel cleaner and heat gun to little effect. Cheers Neil

Hi Charlie, Glad you're enjoying the car. BEC's are quite tricky to start with but i find that you must change gear pretty quickly on the upshift with only a slight dab on the clutch pedal. You'll soon learn how to clutchless upshift on a track but best to use clutch on road while you're getting used to it. It also helps if you sort of preload the gearstick with a bit of finger pressure before the gearchange and then when you lift off the throttle ( quickly) the next gear will bang home really quickly . The gear must be clicked in quickly else you'll wear the dogs. Quite different to a normal manual road gearbox actually. You'll be amazed how quick the gearchange is on the upshift when you get used to it and how really S...L....O....W a normal gearbox is in comparison. On the downshift you must be more gentle ( but still positive) , don't ram it home, with good heel and toeing and all the speed lost with the brakes..NOT the gearbox. Hope that helps. Are you going to Cadwell by any chance??? Cheers Neil

Oh, i'm just about to do this and all the above are top tips. What silicon do we use on Barmby wheels as the sealant by the way??