Myles

As an alternative, if you have only limited power requirements this side of the firewall, why not tap into an existing fused/switched feed from the fuse box? To be honest, my sevens have all three options in place: grommets through the firewall (for fan-override and speed sensor), feeds through the transmission-tunnel big grommet - plus tapped feeds from unused switched/fused connections on the fuse box. Quite a mess - a result of organic growth over a decade or so - and on the winter list for the last five or more years (but never commenced). Plan ahead and avoid this scenario! I've got a new auxiliary fuse box ready for all my gadgets and additional guages - just need to clean out the rats nest and fit it!

Yeah, drill it in the correct place! When we did my engine a decade ago, we didn't quite trust how close the manual position was to the auto tensioner hole - so opted to tap out the auto hole to the larger bolt size instead. It works fine - but you need a different length of belt and I've no idea if the belt covers would still fit without modification.

Worky! iOS 8.0.2

Worky? Or no-worky?

Bonkers. It's deadly slow over 4G on my phone - other sites are fine. I don't give a stuff about updated thread indicators - can this be turned off by the user?

On iOS 8 on an ip6, the add-link dialogue is almost unusable as it appears partially off the bottom/right of the screen and can't be dragged back to get at the submit button. Only workaround seems to be to change phone orientation a couple of times and to hope you can find a bit of the main page in the background to pinch-zoom with.

Ah, thanks for confirming it. Minor, but irritating - particularly on a slow or expensive connection.

This occurs for me in iOS 8.0.2, Safari. when you access Chitchat, for instance, and then use the page number navigation (I.e. Click on 1, 2, 3 etc.) the behaviour seems a bit odd. Clicking on page '2' only seems to shuffle the thread list up a few entries - with most of the default entries still present. If I then click on '3', the behaviour appears to revert to what you'd expect - I.e. A completely-new list of threads.

I, of course, read it as cat flap given my recent thread an posts on the same topic.

It's been a long time since i did this, but I'm struggling a bit to see why this couldn't be sorted out with a multimeter and a bit of thought. A normal key-barrel has three basic positions: I) off, II) static-on and iii) momentary-on. The latter is used to fire up the starter - and can fairly-safely be disregarded in this case as that has already been farmed out to a button. If memory serves, then, you should be left with a positive feed - and a bunch of wires that will take that feed (when the barrel is in the static-on position) and light up instruments power the ECU and so on. So, surely, if you can identify the feed from the battery (or FIA switch), the rest will either be redundant (snipped but not removed feeds to the starter solenoid - or push-button switch) or things that want power anyway. i'd start by identifying the main feed. Then try to check if any of the other wires are actually connected to the starter button (they shouldn't be, but measure twice and all that). The feed can go to one side of your new ignition switch - and hopefully everything else that still has a use to the other. By this time, you'll have physically removed the column-lock/ignition barrel from the car and can double-check which connections are common (most of them, probably) before taking a brave pill and flipping your shiny new switch. ...or, at least, that's how I would tackle it if given the problem blind...

Given the trouble I've had with my first Brise, I'd take this to refer to the possibility (certainty in my case) of a 'dry' high-resistance connection somewhere in there. In my case, it manifested itself by way of slow rotation - too slow on many occasions for the ecu to r cognise it and fire the engine up.

Erm, ok. If you want to bypass it - but avoid the fuel-dousing scenario, why don't you run the wires to a conventional switch on the dash - presumably covered by an aircraft safety cover? That way, you can not-only remain safe(ish - you need to be conscious and intact to activate it), but you can feel one switch closer to Top Gun!

Saw one/it in Edinburgh a week or so ago. I was passing the other way on my bike so didn't get a great look, but it did look ok from what I could see.

When you say there's no light, is that literal? The LED should show red until rotation is recognised - at which point it will turn green unless I've taken leave of my senses. If you've no light at all, the emerald has no power....

New-line functionality seems a bit hit and miss. I thought it had been fixed this week as I was able to get a proper new line by inserting a carriage-return after a single space at the end of a line. ...but this *mostly* doesn't work now (to the point where I wonder if I really imagined it).http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/cry_smile.png http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/regular_smile.png Correct smiley insertion appears to work though.

I'd love 213-04.com to be re-tasked too. My current employer blocked even that site eventually (damned content-monitors!) but I used it universally on all of my devices and cursed whenever someone linked to a BlatChat 'version' of a thread as I never cached my credentials on that version of the site...

I'd be interested in some of the scrappy bits! Racetech mirror, spa stalks, wing piping, seat spacers... ...and the sill protectors if Paul doesn't end up with them... All would need to be posted - but absolutely no rush...

No?

People might want to know if it is locked/unlocked.

That did occur to me. I inspected one visually yesterday - and the rubber does look cracked. When I investigate the alternator, the first thing I'll try is to lift the sump gently and see if the mounts are ok.

Thanks. I don't think I've ever used a torque wrench on these either (partly as I didn't have one that went that low until a year or two back). As to the vibration (that I presume is the cause of them loosening), I think I'll try removing the alternator belt, checking for any obvious bearing issues - and then firing it up with the alternator disconnected as a starting point. Not sure what else I can easily do at this point...(?)

Op took around 8-secs to rise this morning after pushing the car into level ground (recent cold starts have been nose-up on my drive, which wouldn't help of course). Coupla seconds quicker firing it up to come home tonight - so I guess it's probably fine. I'll change the oil and filter soon though and might try to source your preferred filter this time.

Anyone know what the recommended torque is for the in-head coil bolts on an eu3 k-series? Not sure where my Haynes has got to.... Mine have loosened twice recently - I swapped the coils and hand-tightened them out of laziness... ...more to the point, they are possibly coming loose partly as a result of a kind of 'gritty' vibration the engine is exhibiting. It's a kind of mirror-wobbler - low amplitude, plenty of energy (you can feel it throughout the car), not specific to any given load, rev-range etc. - it's always there... Engine seems to pull fine - only thing I can think of checking next is to see whether the bearings on the alternator are ok (it's almost new in mileage terms - just a few hundred miles - works perfectly, electrically though). Hmmm!?!?

Can't recall for certain. I took the new wire to the passenger-side light cluster and almost-certainly just terminated it with a piggy-back spade connector onto the main earth. Probably not a great long-term solution, but I didn't want to have to drill out a rivet or anything at the time. I've got the honeycomb tank protection too - so there are no gaps to get the new wire inside the car - it's gaffer-taped underneath the underside honeycomb panel at the moment... ...one to fix at leisure!

I did the latter to get through this years mot. The earth through the light mount itself had degraded.