leon

It really is a good idea to remove the apollo bung if at all possible as they have a magnet inside which picks up metal fragments. Not certain if the early ones had this but all the later ones do.

Arch won't take the car but they will repair the chassis if required. Give Andy Belcher at Tech7 a buzz in the morning (if you need his number pm me) he will assess, advise and liaise with insurer and Arch if required and can deal with all the other bits that may be out of shape or damaged. PS. what rotten luck but at least no one hurt and the car was not bent before the trip. Edited by - leon on 25 Jun 2014 22:00:10

Chris, Going to have to pass on the MB alloys as they will be too wide for me. Have a BTTT on me

Dibs on the MB wheels please pending a check on front clearance of wing stays. Can you confirm offsets? Any pics available and what finish? EG. Black centres polished rims. Leon.

Sounds like some of the fellas having setup at Dunsfold for tomorrow, the burnt orange VXL is almost certainly Steve Mell (aka Harry Flatters)

Do a search on dyno-plot.co.uk for dva and vkg, very easy to see that the 2.0 litre is making a lot more torque, and I suspect would get into the 270 bhp area with the correct assembly, matching and mapping. Oily has commented on these components, so worth a search and probably a phone call for a full opinion. I can see the point in looking for an ultimate K rather than going duratec if you already have all the other ancillaries to suit a K ie. Dry sump, exhaust, & throttle bodies, all of which would need to be replaced to convert to duratec. Edited by - leon on 27 Apr 2014 12:59:15

BARGAIN, might put off the casual as it's a cat D but if proper chassis repair /replace was done and documented it's too cheap....

The easiest way to tell at a glance in my experience is to look at the side skin just behind the front wishbone pickup. If the skin has a convex bow it is a metric chassis, if it's a nice straight line then it's Arch inside !

Looks like it's still available on their website, not cheap though. link here Edited by - leon on 13 Mar 2014 19:23:12

Slightly scary figures there. As I understand it :- All modern oil pumps have a pressure relief valve which is generally in the 60 psi range (plus or minus a few psi) If you are getting figures of 90+ psi then you either have a gauge that is misreading or a sticky PRV, if the latter then the oil seals are well beyond design pressures and will fail and eject oil to where it shouldn't be. Seek expert attention before you do more damage.. Sorry to be the harbinger of doom.

Figures all sound right. I would suspect that the idle screw is set to give a fast idle at first start so than the cams get the correct revs to bed in for the first few mins, idling too low will effectively knock some of the lobe off due to bedding in against the valve springs if allowed to idle at 1400 rpm on first engine start.

Captain, YHBM re wheels/tyres. Leon. Edit, just seen that Timbo has 1st dibs, copy me on pics please as fall back? Edited by - leon on 4 Feb 2014 21:13:09 Edited by - leon on 4 Feb 2014 21:14:12

from the brief look I had at installing a duratec a few years ago I think the concensus vas very little;- the bottom end is up to the job at that power level (keyed crank maybe required) the head is very good as std and with forced induction less of an issue than na I seem to remember that circa 250 needed nothing doing to the 'engine' at all, when looking at na engines chasing bigger figures needs more flow from the head and most importantly beefing the bottom end to go over 8000 rpm as you need the extra revs to get more than about 250bhp, with a supercharger you dont need the revs. I think (though am not certain) that the 300R & 620R are virtually stock bottom ends. A search of Ammo's threads will enlighten you further, also worth a look at project YOB on here which was pushing about 340 from a duratec from memory. It's a fun exercise, I'm still toying with a big power K series ???

Quoting menacy: Anybody looked into the possibility of fitting a supercharger to a Duratec 2lt? and would the engine need to be fettled? Cheers Dennis. Yep, Caterham, its called the 620R !

9:30 ish on Sunday morning. I assume you were close to your destination of the Goodwood BC, I was heading north in chrome orange heading for Loxwood. flashed you all up, hope the BC had a good turnout of interesting cars from the 60s, looked nice and quiet for a change.

Caterham have a SLR for sale here

once you have exhausted water rail and all hoses next check for me would be the inlet manifold gasket. I was in a similar situation with water loss and no sign of a leak from hoses, sniff test said no hydrocarbons in coolant so after much head scratching final conclusion was inlet gasket which proved correct. Particularly likely if you have the plastic manifold.

I may be wrong but dont allof the current generation of cars with DPF go into a 'burn' mode if you are not getting the car up to temp on thr normal use cycle anyway? my question would be that if you arent doing the mileage anyway why buy a disease'l as a short trip car? save the couple of grand on purchase and buy a small petrol, better still go for a 5 year old petrol with small miles and save ten grandif you are only doing small miles anually!

If you have the oil tank magnesium belhousing the clutch arms are known to be weak, sounds like the early signs of it failing.

Khumo Ecsta (sp) about 70% oem cost in the size my CTR needs but they dont have the dry or wet grip of the OEM spec Bridgestone RE040s, they wear a lot faster too. Unless I was absolutely brassic I wouldn't run them again by choice.

Quoting CageyH: PC based? Game - rFactor - there are loads of cars and tracks available. Pedals - Fanatec Clubsport Mk 2 Wheel - Fanatec GT3RS Seat - I use an Ikea office chair... 😳 Monitors - triple screen set up is the way to go. rFactor on PC is the daddy (I am told) but it needs a decent PC, check the required scecs if you have one. Fanatec wheels & pedals are also as.good as it gets, at sensible money anyway. I race GT5 (Playstation3) with a mainly UK group, check out GTARENA good clean stuff with several nights a week. All comes down to what gear you already have. P.S. Triple monitor not necessary & if you have a decent tv go the eggsbox or playstation rpute but only assuming you control the room its located in......

Quoting OliW: Beat me to it... here BEDDING IN MINTEX “M” TYPE MATERIAL M1144 / M1155 / M1166 / M1177 1. Clean discs with brake cleaner or other solvent. 2. Apply 3 to 4 light applications of the brake from 30mph down to 0mph then...... M1144: 6 / 7 steady applications 70mph down to 30mph M1155: 8 / 9 steady applications 90mph down to 30mph M1166: 9 / 10 steady applications 90mph down to 30mph M1177: 9 / 10 steady applications 90mph down to 30mph FINALLY.... Leave to cool as long as possible ( They now work from cold ) NOTE: DONT LEFT FOOT BRAKE ! & DONT LOCK-UP THE BRAKES ! Ideally if you are changing pad material on a disk that is used ( ie one that a different pad material has been in contact with) you should remove all of the old pad material that has transferred onto the disk. The best way to do so is to liberally apply elbow grease and garnet paper to the disk. That said std front disks are only about a tenner a pop so not worth the several hours effort with garnet paper just replace the disks.

In simple ficticious terms consider 2 tyres, 200/60 vs.200/50 profile, both for this example on 14" wheels. The rolling radius of each is the tyre width x profile as a percentage + half the diameter of the wheel. So... 200 x 0.6 + (7x25.4mm) = 120+177.8= 197.8mm 200 x 0.5 + (177.1mm) = 100+177.8= 177.8mm So a 10% profile change for a 200 mm wide tyre gives a 20mm change in radius.....

Quoting AdC: Here for those with tired fingers. That's Trevors car, one of the Solent Sevens mob, plenty will vouch for how tidy and well looked after it is.

That looks to me like the sva compliant piping, it quickly deteriorates and/or unsticks in patches, most people only keep it on for the inspection then remove it. PVC not carbon though.