JP

Sadly, this has happened and it seems that it's not repairable. I don't fancy ~£900 for a new full hood...

That plastic part just pushes in to the dashboard from the front. I don't have a pic of it before I fitted it unfortunately, but the item in the pic on the parts site is what arrives. You need to disconnect the bulb, pull the old plastic off, feed the wires through and then reinsert the bulb. The new one was a smidge wider than the original so some very gentle filing of the hole was required. I have a better pic of the broken one, which light shed some light...

Thank you - I see now.

Reviving an old thread - I'm thinking of a Soft Bits long nose shower cap, but I currently have a full hood (which is a bit leaky). I'm told that it is not designed for use with the full hood and the rear contour is intended to lie fairly flat against the roll bar. So, for anyone who has used one with a full hood, how bad is the fit? Does it still work or does the full hood actually prevent fitment?

Yes - with a new holder from Redline - see above Or: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/gauges/984-housing-clip-gearchange-light-bezel.html

Is this what is broken?

Is it the shift light bulb holder / bezel? If so, same happened to me. Got mine from Redline (part number 179038) 88p +VAT.

I've just been looking at this as I've been trying to find a dual gauge set up to show oil and water temp and oil pressure since fitting my Apollo. After talking to a lot of suppliers including Caerbont, I'm going to have go with the flick switch on the dash and just use the water temp gauge. There are a number of reasons, but there seems to be a fundamental problem with fitting mechanical temp gauges and that is that the take off isn't big enough. On a K-series, the electrical sender has a 1/8 NPT thread. The "senders" for mechanical gauges tend to be an ether filled bulb that is too big to fit in to a 1/8 NPT thread hole. The threaded fittings tend to much larger to accommodate the bulb. If you use an adaptor, you lprobably introduce inaccuracy because there will inevitably be a well where the fluid will pool around the bulb.

Thanks all. I gave up and phoned Chris this morning. New one on its way...

Thanks all. I'll give Chris at Redline a call. It must be at least a couple of weeks since he last heard from me!

I'm just finishing off the dash on my rebuild and I need a new trip reset cable. It's a 1999 K-series with standard Caterham gauges with the cable that emerges below the dash on the right side - in the perfect position to get caught on one's trouser leg when getting in - that is, until the plastic knob breaks off! I'd rather not cough up £80+ for one from CC and I suspect that they are the same unit as fitted to other cars. Could anyone offer some guidance on the spec or where else to look please?

You will need to drill the rivets that run around the front section where it meets the vertical bulkhead panel. You may need to remove the windscreen if you can't get to the screws that pass through the 2 scuttle top popper bases for the tonneau - hopefully not. Then undo the 4 nuts (2 each side) that hold the scuttle on to the side rails. Don't forget to disconnect the heated screen. Consider going to rivnuts in place of rivets when refitting. Maybe these pictures help:

PM sent

Thank you. Now going back outside to check the clearance of my forward bottom hose against the steering rack...

Just to throw out another option, ProTech single adjustables are about £600 for a set of 4.

#4 - Thank you! Very helpful. I'll leave as is. Cheers

Jonathan, the electronic Assembly guide is the one you kindly emailed me many moons ago - the filename is "Assembly Guide (Issue 1).pdf". Let me know if you need me to send it back. This is from that electronic guide, first image at Page 79 of the PDF and the second figure is at page 84 of the PDF: This is from my paper Assembly Guide, which I believe is from around 1998 - it is not dated: And a photo of my routing:

In my paper c1998 assembly guide, there are no specific instructions about routing the large diameter J hose that attaches to the thermostat housing and the submarine pipe. However, in my electronic 2001 guide it specifies that the hose should be fitted to the thermostat housing and then rotated up so that the part of the hose that passes forward is as high and close to the engine block as possible. The hose to the heater, therefore travels back underneath this hose. I have reassembled as it was when stripped which was with the large J hose running underneath the heater hose. To rotate the J hose up, would put the submarine pipe at an awkward downward angle, I think. I'm now just going over the car doing final checks as ther build is almost done. Is there a potential issue here with coolant circulation that I'm missing? Perhaps this was a revision for post 2001 cars and I should leave mine as is? Can anyone shed any light? Am I just looking for a problem that doesn't exist?

I've just been through this on my rebuild. I'm using ProTech adjustables. ProTech sent me a new set of spacers to give me the clearance I needed.

So I've been told today by more than one source that both std and uprated MCs are both supplied by AP and that the only source is Caterham or Redline. Redline has my money.

#16 - thank you. I agree about buying new, providing it is a reputable manufacturer. I'll look into those 2 links. Thanks again.

Thanks - I'll speak to Bigg Red - they did my calipers and I was very impressed. I've tried refurbing a MC before and I gave up trying to get the old seals out...

Quick update: Banjo end - the 7/16 copper goes above the banjo, where there is a shoulder on the bolt profile. The 3/8 washer goes between banjo and caliper - thanks Redline! Inboard end - clearance issue fixed with the correct hose locknuts - thanks again Redline. Now I've bled the system, it looks like I need a new master cylinder. I was expecting that anyway really, given how long the car has been off the road. Just looked at the parts site - they've gone up a lot in price since I last bought one! £420 for the AP racing one! I prefer the pedal feel of the AP, but at £420 I might go back to standard for "only" £260... Anyone know of any cheaper sources or a generic AP part number for the m/cylinder so I can look elsewhere? Looking further I have a vague recollection that the Caterham AP Racing one was a 6093, which AP say is obsolete and replaced by the 9093. Does anyone know if this, from Demon Tweeks might be the replacement suitable for the 7?

Are these significantly better than an eezibleed?

I think you might be right. That is what I am used on brake hoses, but those are the nuts that come with the goodrich hoses. I'll order some anyway and experiment. Would you happen to know the spec of the lock nut I need? Looking back, there was an error when I ordered the hoses and got a set for uprated calipers sent to me instead by mistake. The fronts were then replaced with the correct hoses for std calipers, but I don't think I got the additional fixings. I think I need the fixings that should come with this hose.