JP

Here are some pics of the inboard end:

Thanks JV. That is exactly as per my printed Assembly guide. The same is in the slightly later electronic one. I'll go and take some pics...

Thank you #4 -so at the inboard end, just pass the hose through the skin and secure on the inside with the shake proof washer and hose nut?

Thank you. I do have 1 copper washer so can look at that...

I've been rebuilding the front brake hoses today and I've come across 2 issues. It an imperial 1999 chassis with widetrack suspension and std brake calipers. 1. Regarding the fitting of the caliper banjo bolts, the Assembly guide refers to a thick and thin copper washer that is fitted either side of the banjo. I need to order these, but the Caterham parts site only refers to one washer which, it says is fitted either side - here. Have things moved on and I just need two if these - one either side of the banjo on the bolt? Or are there part numbers for the thick and thin washers that I haven't been able to find? There is nothing in my De Dion parts manual. 2. At the inboard end of the hose, I am finding that the brake pipe nut on the rigid pipe is hitting / fouling on the flexi pipe nut before the rigid pipe nut is properly snugged down. It's as if there isn't enough thread left on the flexi hose once I add the washer either side of the ally skin and the shakeproof washer and then the hose securing nut. I've compared against my original hoses and they look the same so I'm not sure why this is happening, unless either (a) it was fouling before and I didn't notice (i didn't build the car) or (b) I'm, using thicker washers either side of the skin... Can anyone help with either issue please?

And mine.

Thank you -- that explains it.

Thanks JV and Guy

I'm just about to replace fuel hoses on a k-series. Are you sure that R14 is right? My reading of matters suggests that R14 is not for injection engines, but R9 is? Here's a link to the SAE reference: http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/SAEJ30.pdf But just to confuse matters Gates have R14 hose that is NOT for fuel injected, but other R14 hose that is? here Is it just the permeability that is the difference with R14 over R9, but that Gates happen to produce an R14 that also meets the standards for injection, but other manufacturers may not?

Thanks JV. I do have a clutch spring, but I have to say, the new one that I got from Redline is not as beefy as the one I took out when I stripped the car down. I'll look carefully at your link and work out what I need. Thank you.

Thanks all - when I pulled my engine and box I left the cable attached at the clutch end. Obviously with the other end loose there was no pull to keep it in place. When running the car, I've never had a problem with the cable. The question now is whether the grommet is another component that may cause more harm than good. I can envisage it being more likely that the grommet could fall out into the bellhousing than stop the clutch cable disengaging when under load. Perhaps it stops the end of the cable falling into the bellhousing should the cable fail. I've never had a clutch cable fail. It there a usual place where they fail? I imagine if they tend to fail at the clutch fork end then there is a real risk of the end part it falling down...

Mmm...more investigating to do... Thanks all.

Thank you.

Right - I'm going to take mine out and try running without the clip. When mine fell into the bellhousing I was lucky in that it landed on a ridge and I was able to get it with a magnet. I would have been fuming if I'd had to split the box and engine to get it out. The gaiter itself seems like an good enough fit...

I have just had to refit my clutch cable which fell off the release arm while refitting the engine and box. This is the first time I've done this since owning the car for 20 years! Obviously the metal spring clip inside the rubber cover came away from the rubber when refitting and fell into the bell housing - you can imagine the language that followed! Anyway I managed to fish it out with a magnet on a stick, but it does seem to me to be at risk of falling off again with vibration. Is there any reason not to discard the metal spring and just rely on the lipped edge of the rubber gaiter to hold it in place on the bellhousing?

JK - thank you. That does look similar to my recollection. Certainly the 7.5A fuse for the RH taillight is familiar as I spent all afternoon yesterday trying to work out why the lights on the right side of the car stopped working as I fiddled with the fog light which then burst into life accompanied with the RH lights failing...thank you - I'll save and print. As for the indicators - I've just checked: The tell tale does work in both directions. Also, when I just checked, the indictors flashed with the correct periodicity - unlike yesterday. The right was fine and the left intermittently flicked to a faster rate for a few flashes and then reverted. I suspect there might be more earths and connections that I need to go over and freshen up... I'll also check the hazard relay... Also re: OS and browser: Win 10 desktop and Firefox v.117.0

Jonathan - I'll go and check the tell tale now and report back. The buzzer does work and the tone is slightly different depending on whether one is indicating left or right - as it used to be. The hazards flash normally with normal periodicity and can't find a dediacted hazard flasher under the dash... Your picture is not appearing... James

So, I have been going over the car tidying the wiring and checking earths and now the rear LEDs all work except for the indicators which flash too rapidly. The hazards are fine. Could anyone let me know the spec of flasher unit that I need to replace my existing one? I have kept the std front lights, I do not have front side repeaters and I have one tell tale light in the cockpit along with a buzzer. Also, there was a printed schematic of the fuse box and relay layout stuck to the back of my fusebox, which I seem to have mislaid during the rebuild. Would anyone have a PDF of the schematic that they could share for me to print out and stick on my fuse box please? (The one in my Assembly Guide is a handwritten scrawl.) This is what I currently have:

#15 - I know - guess how annoyed I am that I forgot to do the fronts when I had the hubs off...

Here's a comparison of thread engagement with long studs and short ones with open ended nuts:

I'll BM you for arrangements.

Spent the day making an adapter plate out of the backplate from the original incandescent light unit that I took off for the strip down. Lesson - don't bin old parts until the job's finished...

Yes please to helmet - BM sent.

Thanks #8. I saw in the previous thread that you're not keen to mail the tool - I can understand why! I've taken a punt on the Amazon tool and I'll report back with my experience...

Thanks, Jonathan. I'll get the battery on the charger. Just hooked it up partially yesterday because I wanted to see the rear lights in action! I'll look at the flasher unit, but once I've hooked everything else up - the hazards seem to flash with a proper frequency. However, one front indicator isn't working, which I think is due to the bulb holder contact being corroded (the bulb is fine). I was initially resistant because I thought the CC LEDs would look too modern, but now I love them. And it has meant that I have not had to drill my rear panel for Land Rover fog and reverse lights.