JP

@SM25T - Have you had any issues with the shoulder of the rear damper fouling the De Dion tube (using the lower De Dion mount)?

I've just fitted one of John's and it all seems spot on so far. Very pleased with it.

Thanks everyone. It seems that I should probably just leave well alone for now and maybe find an 82deg thermostat and new fan switch for next I drain the coolant...

On reflection, I guess the first question to answer is, "What temperature should the K-series run at?" I'm finding that a hard question to which to find a definitive answer. Can any K-series gurus help?

Right - been out with the IR thermometer. I must say that I found it tricky to get consistent readings - maybe my cheap IR thermometer is at fault or maybe it is just difficult to focus the IR sensor on particular surfaces in a hot engine bay? Anyway I wonder if I have an 82deg thermostat. I judged thermostat opening by feeling the bottom J hose. It became hot with the following readings: Dash gauge - 78 Thermostat black plastic body temp - 85 deg J hose - 77deg Fan on temps: Dash gauge ~95-100 Fan switch - 94-95deg Fan off: Dash gauge - ~90 deg Fan switch temp - 86-87 degrees I have heard that there is a valve in the top hose bypass at the front of the right side of the head that is prone to blocking - my bypass hose feels warm soon after starting and so I suspect that is patent. So, I think I will leave the thermostat. It seems sensible to change the fan switch. It must be over 15 years old and lived in a car that has barely been run for that time. Tempted to opt for a 77-82 option as I've always been twitchy watching the temp gauge rise when out for a summer blat and the arriving at a traffic jam. I note that the switch in the CC parts site is described as 86-95deg... I'm reluctant to drill another hole in my dashboard, but I am considering adding a fan override switch. For those that have done it, where do you tend to mount the relay?

Thanks all - I'm going to get the laser thermometer out now and investigate thermostat opening and fan activation. I may have further queries...

I'll check the markings on the switch. It has the original (bottom hose) thermostat that the car came with. When finally up to temperature and running normally, both water and oil temp sit on the "80" mark. I seem to recall checking with a laser thermometer during my rebuild and the rad temp and top hose temp were around 90-92 when the fan started. The temp does come down promptly when the fan starts. System is full, with no leaks. Given SM25T's comment, I wonder if it is just the gauge... Is the standard thermostat 82 degrees?

Shaking down my 1.6K series rebuild this morning and it seemed that the cooling fan was slow to kick in. Here is a pic of the temp at which it activates - does this look right, please?

Sadly, I don't have a recommendation for a swivel head manual one, but what I would be interested in is if anyone knows of a gun that comes with a nose that is narrow enough to fit into a popper base for when riveting popper bases to the car. So far I've had to use an M3 nut over the rivet pin, which works but is fiddly and not ideal.

It should be fine. The LEDs come with a new rear loom section that plugs into the old econoseals. The LED clusters have a lead with a round twist lock plug that sandwiches either side of the rear skin. The lead is therefore shorter by design.

I got mine from Think Automotive - can't remember the price now - but somewhere between those 2 figures. Comes with braided hose.

I think, given that the matrix seems to be the Mini one and is therefore quite cheap, I'm going to have a crack at replacing it. Can anyone point me to a source for the correct type and size of plastic "rivet" so I can rebuild the surround once I change the matrix please? I found this video on line which makes it look quite simple, but the part where he shows the rivets is a bit blurry... Grateful for any help..

Looks like it - certainly advertised for that generation of Mini...

Thanks Probe2 - I've also spotted that the same ebay seller sells the same matrix marketed as being for a Mini for about £15 less!

They are - £220 +VAT + delivery for the matrix only! Having said that, I've just found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303200272268?fits=Car+Make%3ACaterham&itmmeta=01HQ9BR7A236DBSRRXBD5NSJHD&hash=item469824ff8c:g:6woAAOSwspRe5Ph1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0MXaSkpveQiIdgv5aKJ2X%2Fi9ZL2jumBIBlUcBwe6NAPRDA5oosg3AL9yLGk1G9Vc2p9FkA2OJ1PAErwRAVtyzhTSL8jQAqLn8pz4w7Wqlj7LJwHNmB7vUlM24VTVoVVQYCruat5X%2FwqJhmwvpRU%2B9QRWe%2Bowo1kmFKywnwu97sn10VCILgXGUA7%2FzBifZHy%2FiCG9M4gppx7BDRhDIGLAwEtBWsmYtVanu32HmmO2%2F7DYxH53SALchCb7chFZwHT%2Fhu04ZE%2FhO0NkUUeLm%2BTOm3g%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4714Ku6Yw which looks like it should do the trick...

Thanks Stu - good plan.

Right, I think I'll close off the heater and see if there are issues with overheating in traffic. If not, then I might just bin the heater... I bin the heater do I just replace the 2 hoses to the heater with a single hose between the 2 take off points on the engine?

Hi All I think I may have a heater matrix leak - I'm seeing wafts of steam from the top of the heater once up to temp. I've been in touch with Clayton CC who tell me that they do make the matrix still, but they do not make the surround. The surround on mine has become brittle - I cracked it when removing it from the car. Can anyone offer any advice on how to gently dismantle the heater surround to get at the matrix, or would it be better simply to buy a whole new unit - assuming that the new ones fit the older cars?

Also , where did you get the new hood? I thought that Imperial hoods are no longer available?

I could have done with that when I did my new rear panel! The way I did it was by refitting my old boot cover and making light scratches with the existing poppers plus cross referencing against the old rear skin. Seems to have worked reasonably well.

It's behind this triangular panel: Which, looks like this once the panel is removed:

Hi Jonathan Thank you - I do have his diagrams - thanks for the offer.

Thank you. I went for the Lucas DKB406 HT lead set in the end. That was because DMGRS could not find a set with a long enough king lead - it seems that there may be a range of coil mounting positions. The Lucas plug leads are fine, but fatter than the originals. The king lead with set was long enough, but the boot was the short wide type, which floated in the breeze when fitting. It also meant that the connector was not seated securely and so I've reused the old king lead for now...

Thank you, Oily!

Thank you - I found them as well - I'll give them a call...