JP
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Everything posted by JP
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I'll BM you for arrangements.
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Spent the day making an adapter plate out of the backplate from the original incandescent light unit that I took off for the strip down. Lesson - don't bin old parts until the job's finished...
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Yes please to helmet - BM sent.
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Thanks #8. I saw in the previous thread that you're not keen to mail the tool - I can understand why! I've taken a punt on the Amazon tool and I'll report back with my experience...
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Thanks, Jonathan. I'll get the battery on the charger. Just hooked it up partially yesterday because I wanted to see the rear lights in action! I'll look at the flasher unit, but once I've hooked everything else up - the hazards seem to flash with a proper frequency. However, one front indicator isn't working, which I think is due to the bulb holder contact being corroded (the bulb is fine). I was initially resistant because I thought the CC LEDs would look too modern, but now I love them. And it has meant that I have not had to drill my rear panel for Land Rover fog and reverse lights.
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Thanks #3, but I'm in SW London! I have the dish and punch tool but I thought this would be an easier option, if it works... Might take a punt if no-one has any experience...
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I haven't touched the indicator timer - I didn't know there was one? Do you mean a flasher unit? This is an old 1999 k-series with only one tell tale on the dash. Also , I haven't fully wired up the car yet and the battery might be a bit low - not used for about 6 months and can't start the car yet as the fuel tank is still out of the car
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I'm about to fit a load of dots on my new boot cover and I saw this on Amazon for £29. Anyone tried it? Given the cost of the proper tool, this appears to be a bargain...if it works...
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Thanks #6 - sadly I don't think that is the problem. The fog worked for about 2 seconds and then stopped. I suspect a blown fuse. I'll go hunting today. Also, the indicators flash rapidly, but I haven't fully reconnected all of the wiring yet and there might be bad earths. I need to go over the whole car and tidy up all connections. Also, at the moment, I still have std front lights. Hopefully the mismatch won't cause a problem...
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Thanks #3. Unfortunately, I thought that would be the answer...
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My rebuild is progressing and I fitted these today. However, I have an issue with the reverse light. It doesn't fit the wheel carrier bracket. I'm not aware of a different light unit for cars with a wheel carrier - it seems that Caterham intend for this kit to be universal and if you have a wheel carrier you just need a loom extension and nothing else. However, this is the position on my imperial chassis: Does anyone know if a different unit option is available or if there is an adapter plate available? I can't find anything on the CC parts site. By the way, I test fitted the unit and the reverse light worked straightaway! Happy days! The fog light however...
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Thanks all. The tunnel set is only about £75 and so it's tempting just to re-carpet the tunnel (I would re-use the other carpets anyway), but it might look quite nice with bare black powdercoat...
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Thanks #6. Going to give it a miss when refitting. I will refit the carpet behind the seats and I have the footwell mats which are a combination of carpet and a heel pad that secure in place with poppers. However, that was when I had std floors. I've fitted lowered floors for my rebuild...hopefully they will still fit...
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Thanks. I guess if I change my mind later its just a matter of pulling the seats and harnesses and gluing in the carpet panels...
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Mt rebuild is progressing nicely and I'm coming to focus on the interior. The car used to be carpeted before the stripdown, but as part of the rebuild, my interior panels have all been nicely finished with black powdercoat. I think it could look quite good with no carpet and just a transmission tunnel top... Does anyone here have any comments. Has anyone decided not to carpet and then wished they had done so? Does the carpet offer some insulation for the passenger from engine bay / exhaust heat?
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#2 - I have widetrack and so I'm not sure that's an issue. Or am I wrong about that?
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I'm about to fit my replacement cycle wings and I'm going to bolt them on. The assembly guides refer to drilling the 2 "marked" bolt mounting holes. However, my replacement wings are not marked. I looked at my old battered wings and the holes are 60mm back from the leading edge. However I have just read this link on the other recent thread on cycle wing bonding which suggests that the cycle wing front mount should be 80mm back from the leading edge. I have the smaller 13/14" wings - can anyone help with the correct location for the mounting holes please?
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Why not just use 4 bolts?
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Done. Funnel and tube did the trick. The only fiddle was getting the allen key into the plug socket to tighten up the plug. That required an assistant giving directions from above while I fiddled from below with the allen key. I'm also going to cut a bit more off the allen key...
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I have one of those oil cans somewhere. If I can find it, i'll give it a go...
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Thanks. Just ordered some 8mm pipe and a couple of elbow connectors... This Saturday, I'll be mostly getting covered in Redline MTL...
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Good news. I've managed to get the filler out and back in again...just. Bad news. I don't think the access hole solution is an option for me - my plug is directly behind a chassis diagonal. There is a finger width clearance between the back of the plug and the diagonal when reinserting. #11 asked for the size of the filler. It's 21mm in diameter. I'll probably try some 12mm or 16mm OD pipe. I guess it is a balance between a wide enough bore for reasonable flow, but narrow enough to easily navigate bends... Also, the depth of the hex socket is just over 8mm, so the cut down allen key does not need to have a straight section any longer than that. This might be of help to others...time to head to fleabay for some piping etc...
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OK - that's superb chaps. Lots of food for thought. Most importantly, it looks doable without resorting to taking the lid off the box. I'll try a combination of the methods above by buying some tubing and an elbow and aim to fill by gravity through a funnel from above. I hate getting under cars, even on axle stands and I think I can get the plug out with my hands by reaching across from the driver's side and then hopefully feed a tube in from above simialr to #6 with the help of an assistant.
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Thanks #4. I did remember to loosen the plug before putting the gbox back in the car so I can turn it with fingers at the moment. Is the diameter of the filler hole the same as the diameter of the plug all the way into the box? I'd like to get the largest diameter hose possible for easier oil flow. I do have a Machine Mart / Clarke oil syringe which I could use, but the hose has a thick wall and isn't very flexible...
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Thanks #2 - I thought I'd done an exhaustive search, but I hadn't seen that page. However, I am familiar with the options. I like the idea of the access hole, but, I must say, it "feels" as if the plug is directly behind the diagonal. Perhaps it isn't? The pic on the web page suggests that the hole is drilled in the "V" between the vertical and the rear angled diagonal. Is that the general experience for a 1999 non-race imperial chassis? I have cut down an allen key but when I was feeling around under the car yesterday I couldn't even get the short end to engage in the filler plug - and it does fit - I checked and loosened the filler while the g'box was out of the car. (I also kept the cut off end.)
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