JP
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Everything posted by JP
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I've got a few surface cracks in my std black fibreglass rear wings and nose cose that I fancy trying to repair rather than replace. Replacing all three will be around £600. I've seen lots of guides online on how to do this on marine gelcoat and it looks bit fiddly, but not too complicated. However, what are the results like on coloured gelcoat? Has anyone got any experience to share on this? Was it worthwhile or did you end up replacing anyway? I can imagine that its easier to fix white marine gelcoat with a good result than it will to blend in even standard colours?
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Thanks all!
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I've looked in the Guides section of the site and the link to the template does not seem to be active. Does anyone have a template for the mounting holes that they could send me please?
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Thanks #27 - will check them out.
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Update - for now I've just gone for the DAS V2 as it will be of use on the painted tin top and 7. I found the DAS kit online for £90. I'm not after the perfect mirror finish yet. So far I'm impressed. I have no idea what I'm doing, but I managed to get this shine on 20 year old pitted ally in less than 5 minutes with a few blobs of (10 year old) Peek:
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Thanks JV.
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Thanks Oily. You have emailed me this morning and I have just replied. I'll pop the cam cover off and take a photo once the rain stops, probably tomorrow. But it's an EU2, with distributor.
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Having re-read everything on Dave's site, I think I'm going to give this a go myself. Two questions: 1. Dial gauges vary enormously in price. For this purpose will any old cheap one do? I guess for the analogue "TDC" gauge, accuracy is irrelevant as it is the movement of the pointer that is important, so should a £10 cheapy one be fine? But what about the digital "lift" gauge? Any recommendations? 2. How do you tell if you have a manual or automatic tensioner? I have a 1.6KSS.
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I rather like the look of the Brooklands screens and I have been considering ditching the windscreen for some time, but do you end up having to wear a lid whenever you drive if you have Brooklands? Not sure I want that for me or my passengers...
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Just an FYI, you may also find that the tube is zip tied to the wiring loom at various points along it's length. I removed my dash / wiring / wiper motor as one. Hopefully this pic shows what I mean: I also had oval holes in my old scuttle and round ones in the new scuttle... Good luck!
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Here is a pick of it in situ that I took during my strip down (1999 car). I reckon it would be a massive PITA (if not impossible) to get out without removing the scuttle:
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Thanks JV. Part of me wants to get Dave to do this, but I do feel that I ought to be able to do it myself...Hopefully, Dave will offer me a date to do it before I get round to it!
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Thank you #40. I check that out.
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Thanks Ian - I know. Dave fitted my verniers many years ago and I am still thinking about just taking the engine to him - just waiting for an email from him to let me know if he can do it. But on the other hand I should be able to do this myself. I'm currently thinking maybe change the belt myself and ask Dave to retime later or see if Dave might be able to make me a set of his dial gauge mounting brackets (I don't have the tooling to do that), then buy some gauges and do it myself.... Or maybe, I'll be lucky and not have the slop in the sprocket when I remove the crank pulley...
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Ha! Thank you Ian. It is a non VVC - it's a 1.6KSS with verniers. Are there particular brands of water pump that are known to have metal impellors? Or are the part numbers different?
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I've been thinking about doing a cam belt change myself and been reviewing this thread with interest. I'm going to have a go. Is there a recommended brand for a cam belt? I've seen kits on ebay that include a new tensioner and water pump. Again, if I go for one of these, is there a recommended brand? I've seen comments about getting a particular type of water pump - is it pot luck or do some kits come with a particular type of pump?
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Thanks again all. Clearly more research to do. And I can't find a cheaper alternative to the Cyclo twin head... The cheaper option seems to have disappeared from Frasers and I can't find an alternative elsewhere. £400 is a bit steep for me I think.
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Thank you. The "Guild" and the "Von Haus" look remarkably similar!
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Thank you #16. I'm not going for a mirror finish. I'll have a look at DA smaller polishers too.
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Thanks guys for all the tips...There are lots of "not that expensive" things that I could buy in the rebuild process, but when added altogether it does get quite expensive! I suspect a new bonnet may be on the cards anyway, but I need to prioritise bits that really do need replacing first.
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Thanks all. I think I'll look at a DA for the painted tin top and a dual head for the 7. I'm expecting a big polishing job. As part of my refurb Arch have reskinned part of the car, but in an effort to save costs, I've kept the old bonnet. Need to try to bring 20 year old ally up to the match the appearance of the new stuff...
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Thanks. It looks as if a DA polisher makes a difference. I'm not sure that the Clarke one is DA...
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I have A021s on mine, but they are old and I believe that the newer ones may not be for road use any more?
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I'm think of taking advantage of the Machine Mart VAT free deal on Clarke products to buy a Clarke polisher CP185. Does anyone have any experience of this or have any alternative recommendations? I remember seeing a post on here a while ago about polishing bare ally and there was a strong recommendation for a 2 head polisher - but I cannot now find the post. Would be for my bare ally 7, but also a painted tin top.
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@Guy - PM sent.
