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Mr Locust

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  1. Mr Locust

    help

    Mr Locust replied to david nelson's topic in Speed

    I'm sure that everyone in class 3 is pleased to here that. Does the drop in logged fuel pressure coincide with a throttle lift at high rpm? Be honest 😬 The standard fuel pressure regulator (on EU3 cars at least) is referenced to manifold vacuum by a small tube. In practice that means that the fuel regulator it is designed to maintain a constant fuel pressure 3bar (ish) above the pressure in the manifold. The 20psi range you have stated in your other posting seems to be in (roughly at least) the right order for manifold vacuum between open and closed throttle (1bar=14.5psi).
  2. Mr Locust

    help

    Mr Locust replied to david nelson's topic in Speed

    Mark, David is on Mems, well he had better be or expect a protest or three Oops, silly me 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 David, is the fuel pressure regulator still connected as per Rover standard i.e. with the small hose on the back?
  3. Mr Locust

    help

    Mr Locust replied to david nelson's topic in Speed

    David, is the car on an Emerald?
  4. Mr Locust
    Once had wheels balanced a couple of times where they got progressively worse. Then the chap admitted that the machine was out of calibration and waiting for an engineer to visit. Everything was fine after going to the next garage up the road..............
  5. Mr Locust
    Tom, a colleague who runs a Mitsubishi EVO rally car rates them very highly and recommends them regularly. Not sure of the detiails of the ECU in that car but I know he has had their car setup to run with or without anti-lag according to the regs for the event (so a bit more involved than just power runs in hot hatches).
  6. Mr Locust
    On a 4-1 SLR cat system it makes very little difference in practice.
  7. Mr Locust
    Like it was designed to go there?
  8. Mr Locust
    The exhaust looks like a Caterham SLR road system (long 4-1 cat). Lambda bosses are fitted in no 4 and the inlet cone of the cat. With a std ecu setup, the working sensor is most likely to be a narrow band unit. The one with the cable cropped is probably just filling the hole up!
  9. Mr Locust
    More info on features
  10. Mr Locust
    I have the C451 in my Excel running a mapped injection setup. I bought the car with it fitted already so I'm still finding out about it. On enquiring with Lumenition they wanted over £70 for a dongle and software to talk to the ECU or your Lumenition dealer can do this for you. Not massively helpful for an obsolete unit. At this point I only wanted to get the map backed up so its on the to do list.....
  11. Mr Locust
    Anything like the Lumenition C400 here
  12. Mr Locust
    Beat me o it mic! By about 14 hours Maybe ask the supplier if they balance each section individually or the whole assembly?
  13. Mr Locust
    Edited to add: Much easier if you don't push the cups through to the middle of the yoke. Edited by - Mr Locust on 8 Jun 2012 17:40:58
  14. Mr Locust
    If you have the following items it is pretty straightforward; 1. Circlip pliers 2. A vice 3. Socket with inside larger than bearing cups 4. Socket with outside smaller than bearing cups (You will be using these as a spacer to press out the bearing) General idea is to remove circlips, put large socket on one side and small socket on the other and press the cups out into the large socket IYSWIM.
  15. Mr Locust
    I'll bet I can break harder than you whilst you are tasking your brain with all the heel and toe stuff. But can you. Aside from the 'tasking the brain' aspect, if you are already braking to the limit for both axles i.e. braking as late as is possible (assume near perfect brake balance for the conditions), a notchy downshift will be enough to cause a rear wheel to skid due to the more harsh, intermittent application of engine braking torque from the downshift. If you overlap braking and turn in are you compromised by uncertain rear grip on downshifting?
  16. Mr Locust
    I made my own.............
  17. Mr Locust
    Dave, throttle pedal stop is typically a long bolt with a 'penny on a stick' head arranged to contact the back of the big tube which forms the pedal pad. Fitted to the pedal box. here
  18. Mr Locust
    Chris Alston YHM.
  19. Mr Locust
    Family issues meant that I couldn't stay for long but I managed quick run over in the Excel and a catch up with friends. A few low res shots on my Flickr account from T1 before the lunch break.
  20. Mr Locust
    Correct. Remove the shunt hose from the head tank to the submarine hose and block the submarine stub off. Fit a 5/8" tee to the bypass hose in place of the straight connector at the back of the engine (inlet side) and connect to the base of the header tank with a new length of 5/8" heater hose which runs under the inlet manifold/throttle bodies. I have just fired off a tech article for LF covering the mods.
  21. Mr Locust
    What would you like to know?
  22. Mr Locust
    Must remember to resubmit the article I wrote for LF on a very minor rework of the standard K cooling circuit which eliminates the need to bleed.
  23. Mr Locust
    Evening Bri
  24. Mr Locust
    You could most probably fit one of these if you had the right threaded sleeve to fit.
  25. Mr Locust
    Nick, were they grooved/drilled discs on your blue S1 Elise? You could feel the pattern through the pedal!! Clive, has Richard's handy work not sorted your balance issue?
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