Mr Locust
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Everything posted by Mr Locust
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Rog, just get googling with the Bosch ref number. here here
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EP Gear oil in trunnions.
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Just do it up FT. *nono*The spline on the column will be tapered. Going mad tightening the nut will just make it very difficult to remove in future. Have just had this issue on the Excel.
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Is there a reason why 16weeks of inactivity might make them unbalanced?
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Why upgrade? If your only objective is MoT passing and the engine is well mapped under high load speed conditions you just need to have a narrow band sensor fitted and enabled to operate at light throttle settings. If you do upgrade the .fig can be loaded into the newer software. I used Innovate kit with my K3.
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I used a mohair hood on a seven type car for several years as a year round daily driver. No issues with cleaning. Use warm water and a soft car brush. Infinitely preferable when it comes to folding and unfolding in the cold.
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Increase the diameter of the rear wheel cylinders to increase the actuation force on the shoes for a given pressure. Check if the Marina van had different cylinders for instance? Is a disc conversion lighter than drums or just more bling
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Could you fit the strut then progressively fit the cover to the screen rail and seat back from the door side working inwards. Mark where the bar touches the bar. Then remove and progressively fit from the centre of the car working outwards and mark where it touches the bar. You will then have the exact position for both sides of the hole to fit your bar...
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Engine coolant flows from the head through the top hose to the radiator and returns from the radiator to the engine through the bottom hose. The thermostat is at the engine end of the bottom hose. Coolant from the head also flows from the head to the bypass circuit via the heater (where fitted) and returns to the engine at the thermostat housing (under the inlet manifold/tb's). If everything is working and the temperature is up to 'normal' the top hose and the bypass hose (before heater) should be at the same temperature.
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The thermostat can fail shut. Which shuts off the coolant flow through the radiator. If your car has the std fan switch in the radiator it doesn't see the increased coolant temp to switch the fan on. You have indicated that the heater is effective so the bypass circuit is primed. The thermostat should open if working. Is the inlet side of the radiator getting hot?
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What would you think? You have done your research, you have made your decision to install the additional system. You are conducting your own experiment with a sample size of one. Let us know how the engine (and the car) looks with 500,000 miles recorded. It would also be interesting to see how significant the effects of oil surge and oil aeration are in the Caterham application. Also of interest would be whether any signs of fuel dilution start to show in the oil analysis due to rich mapping of an aftermarket fuel injection system. All really dependent on the specification of your car and the duty cycle you subject it to. And your of course, your own driving style. Your mileage will most definitely vary!
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I am intending to start using oil analysis Viscosity, wear metals? What parameter(s) will you base the judgement the safety of your extended interval on?
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As for how do you check that the filter is still working, you just put your hand on it when the engine is running and if it's hot, it's working. I've used them for years on numerous different installations and I've not had one block yet. Does that mean that your engines weren't quite so 'dirty' as you originally feared? If you change the filtration media every 5000 miles what interval do you change the oil at?
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Here is an idea to consider. If the filter is capable of filtering particles to 1µ is the filtration media is likely to be highly susceptible to becoming blinded by contamination. In which case the back pressure will increase and the flow will reduce. In the extreme the filter becomes blocked and there is no flow through the additional filter. Only through the standard filter. How does your system ensure that there is flow through the filter and what provision is there for blocked filter indication?
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So it bleeds oil from the engine oil pressure feed rail? What is your revised engine oil service interval?
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What is the pressure drop across the new filter compared to the element you are replacing; 1. at the oil flow rate delivered by the oil pump in your engine? 2. at the likely contamination levels you expect to see in your filter at the end of your service interval? If the oil pump has a built in pressure relief valve fitted, any significant additional pressure drop in the filter arrangement will tend to increase relief flow and reduce flow to the engine oil galleries i.e. increase the risk of starving the oil feed to the bearings.
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Due to the safety critical application you might want to research carefully whether plating will make the steel tubing brittle.
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2003 Imperial chassis, single diagonal FIA type - 38.5mm dia over the powder coating.
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it seems to be locked solid in there The grease can and does solidify, siezing the pedal up gradually. Try some brake cleaner, WD40, petrol etc to 'melt' the solidified grease from around the bush. Was told in the past that the pedal should rotate around the bush It does. The bush is bolted to the frame tube and does not move. The pedal uses the outside diameter of the bush as the bearing surface against the sleeve in the pedal.
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I actually replaced like for like with a Bosch sensor as fitted to my EU3 car. Just noticed that the Bosch cross refs are on a different link from that page.
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Good service from JustLambda in the past. Link to cross ref page.
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Mine was 3160g on the kitchen scales.
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This may shed some light on the situation link to the dark side. It appears that the Denso boys do things in a somewhat more complicated way than the basic Lucas, Bosch, Iskra alternators which have large wire terminal for charge and small wire terminal for excitation. Do any of these types look familiar?
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The generic circuit for the charge lamp is +12v ign switched to one side of the panel bulb, alternator small connector to the other side of the bulb. This provides initial field excitation to the alternator and charge indication. So before start, ign feed = +12v, alternator terminal = 0v. Bulb lights up. Once running (and charging) ign feed = +14v, alternator terminal = +14v. Bulb goes out.
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The dash light needs to come on. Then go out. The bulb is fed by +12V from the ign switched circuit. Once charging, the bulb terminal of the alternator is raised to +12v so the bulb extinguishes.