TANGO7
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Everything posted by TANGO7
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Virtually no difference when 2nd battery connected (As in my Post “Battery Recommendations”).
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Yes, they were checked professionally.
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Thanks for the comments. I have located the earth strap from the block to the engine mounting bolt. Removed and all surfaces cleaned. This has improved things, so definitely worthwhile. However, the engine still doesn't crank as fast as I would like. Perhaps I am being too unrealistic in my aspirations.
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Thanks for the comments. I have located the earth strap from the block to the engine mounting bolt. Removed and all surfaces cleaned. This has improved things, so definitely worthwhile. However, the engine still doesn't crank as fast as I would like. Perhaps I am being too unrealistic in my aspirations.
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Thanks for the comments. I have located the earth strap from the block to the engine mounting bolt. Removed and all surfaces cleaned. This has improved things, so definitely worthwhile. However, the engine still doesn't crank as fast as I would like. Perhaps I am being too unrealistic in my aspirations.
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Does anyone know from which car the above was sourced for a1994 live axle crossflow. I need to replace the reservoir cap on mine which had split in two and been stuck together by a previous owner. The top of the cap shows the Ford logo and 74470569. The body shows Lockheed. I’m wondering if for some reason in the past the original cap was replaced by a “bodged” Ford part.
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Yes Jonathan, that looks like the one. I should have mentioned it's for a live axle car. The link suggests Vauxhall Via etc. The cap on my car actually shows a Ford logo with number 74470569, so perhaps fitted to Escorts??
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Looking for the above for a 1994 Crossflow. (In actual fact I just need the cap, which I have just discovered had been split into 2 parts and glued back together by a previous owner !!) If not available does anyone know the part number or the car from which it was sourced? (It's the wedge shaped plastic type with 3 pipe connections).
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Following on from my Post "Battery Recommendations" all components and connections have been checked and all deemed OK but the problem of "lethargic" cranking still continues. I am wondering if I have an earthing problem. The -ve from the battery is earthed direct to a bolt on the bellhousing and the starter motor obviously earths direct on the block. I can find no other relevant earth straps. Is there supposed to be an earth cable from the engine block to the chassis? (I remember on a previous crossflow I had there was another earth cable. I seem to recall it ran from the block/bellhousing to the brake master cylinder mounting bracket - but I may be mistaken on its location). Any thoughts on the need for such an earth strap and, if so, its location?
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Same lethargy with the second battery fitted. I presumed the solenoid is OK as there is current getting to the starter motor and the drop on cranking is similar when tested at the starter motor terminal to when tested across the battery. Next step is to remove starter motor and get it checked out. (Ignition/fuel systems are standard factory i.e. Lucas and Webers).
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Many thanks for all your comments and suggestions. I have cleaned, checked and re tightened ALL connections. Connected a second (fully Charged) battery to the new in situ battery and checked measurements with the 2 batteries :- At Rest :- 13.1 Cranking :- 10.5 As #14 I have also checked (single in situ battery) from battery terminal to starter post, which gives a reading of 10.3 on cranking. So much the same readings with 2 batteries and the above reading to starter post of 10.3 (as opposed to 10.5 across the battery) would suggest connection from battery to starter motor is OK. I am coming to the conclusion that there may be a problem with the starter motor perhaps sticking or drawing too much current. BTW Jonathan what's an ECU ???
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Jonathan Readings as follows :- At Rest 12.8 v Min on Cranking 10.8v At 3000 rpm 14.6v These readings would seem ok to me (except may have expected a slightly higher "At Rest" value) and suggest the Battery is ok (being new it should be !) Suspect I may have to look at starter motor or solenoid. (Concuring with #7,9 10 above).
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K7 VCT Thanks for your reply. Any suggestions as to the potential problem other than connection problems?
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Jonathan Thanks for your comments. Fluid levels are all ok. I have checked/cleaned all earths and connections. What values would you expect from the 3 readings you suggest taking? The old battery would not hold an adequate charge.
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I have just replaced the defunct battery on my 1600 Crossflow with the recommended Banner 53034 (30Ah 300A). The battery is fully charged but when starting the car the engine turns over very lethargically, but does usually fire up. Is the battery not up to the job and if so any recommendations for a more suitable one? Any other thoughts on the problem?
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Looking for Triumph/Ital. Thanks
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Ford or Triumph/Ital PCD?
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Yes, I think there are 2 versions.. One with the v shaped adaptor spaces the spare off the rear bodywork so access can be gained to release the poppers holding the boot cover in place, without removing the spare wheel. The other type means the wheel is flush against the rear bodywork. I’m ideally looking for the type with the spacer, but the other would be ok.
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Does anyone have one of the above spare? (The long bolt which passes through the centre of the spare wheel and secures it to the rear of the car va the threaded boss in the rear panel). Perhaps someone who does not carry a spare wheel and has removed the spare wheel cradle may have one.
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I have recently acquired a Crossflow Caterham with an oil cooler fitted. (It is fitted behind the radiator at the top on the nearside). Are there any special procedures which need to be followed during an oil change? (e.g. how to ensure old oil is drained from the cooler/hoses and how to ensure it is satisfactorily re filled).
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I presume you have looked On EBay there are some on there - ranging from “spares/repair” to v expensive!
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Any further information on the Swedish Trip?
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Another query - can you recommend a low speed (or variable speed) angle grinder. Mine runs at at 11000rpm and this seems a similar speed to any I can source at Screwfix etc.
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Results look fantastic. Did you polish all the pipes in situ or take them off the car to do them. (I was wondering if there is much “splashing” of paste or scattering of debris during the polishing process and if you can get access to all surfaces of pipes whilst they are still in place).
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Thanks to you both for the information. Regards, Ian
