TANGO7
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Everything posted by TANGO7
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Roger K - Thanks. Is it possible to give a precise ideal value (or range) for the fuel pressure. I am right in thinking if there is excess unburned petrol (causing the smell and residual petrol after switching off) then the pressure is likely to be too high???
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SM25T. Thanks - No visible leaks/perishing of hoses.
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Maybe I'm becoming too sensitive, but I've noticed a distinct smell of petrol whilst driving my Crossflow (1600 Twin 40s). Although, to a certain extent,TADTS, this seems stronger than I've noticed in the past with other Crossflows I've owned. On switching off the engine there is sometimes petrol seen in the body of the carbs when viewed through the aperture of the (removed) inspection plate to the rear of the carbs. Any thoughts or just time to replace all seals in the carbs?
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You could try Powertrack, good for supply of brake and clutch parts for earlier cars also may be able to give you advice if alternative levers would fit. Contact details :- 01344 886522 www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk If Triumph or BL parts fit Rimmer Bros may be an option.
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Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.
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#11 Is the SH wanner fitted with an adjustable diameter nozzle to fit various sized grease nipples? My current gun (which I use for oiling the trunnions) was a small cheap plastic one I got many years ago and it’s about knackered. So looking for a replacement.
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Yes, I am aware EP90 is used but I inject this utilising a grease gun.
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Does anyone know the size and thread for the above? (For 1994 car). I want to replace the current straight ones with right angle ones to make access easier for a grease gun for lubrication.
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Looking for the above 13 x6 for live axle Ital/Triumph p c d.
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Following Jonathan's suggestion on a related previous thread, I contacted Power Track. A very knowledgeable and helpful outfit, they had the original Lockheed cap in stock which they quickly dispatched and which is now on the car. I would recommend them highly for brake parts for older Sevens.
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Cheers Jonathan, will try thar next time I need to put up a photo.
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Thanks Jonathan- that’s the photo. Must learn how to post photos on Blatchat I’m a bit of a Luddite, maybe that’s why I have a Crossflow!!
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Just noted on page 108 of Weale, the top photo seems to show what looks like an earth lead attached to one of the pedal bracket mounting bolts. I think this may be the earth strap I recalled in my original post with the other end of the lead terminating in a terminal attached to one of the bellhousing bolts. Can anyone confirm this?
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Should the cap to a brake Master Cylinder be vented? I have had to adapt a cap to fit my Cylinder and wonder if I should have a small vent hole in it. I seem to recall older style caps had such holes.
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#3 I believe this shows a boot from an early 80s Caterham. I think the car is one featured in a magazine at the time (Classic and Sportscar??) . They built a Caterham Kit (1600 Sprint) they covered the build in a series of articles and then ran it as a “staff car” for some time, carrying out various mods also featured in the magazine. I think the mods were mainly cosmetic, the car started off red and Ali and finished up yellow with green wings. I believe the car is the one shown in Weale just after the contents page and there are a number of other pictures in this publication showing various details of it. I wonder if the car is still around. (Shown on DVLA Website but no details).
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Chris - Thanks for keeping going during these difficult times. I’m sure, like me, people are using the current situation to tinker with their cars and complete tasks and suppliers like yourself are vital to this. Much appreciated that you could fulfil my order today.
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One cable between the starter and solenoid. (+ve feed) The solenoid has the above cable to the starter, a cable to the battery +ve terminal and a wire which disappears into the wiring loom (presumably to the ignition switch). There is a single wiring block connected to the alternator with all wires going directly into the loom. I presumed the alternator earthed through its mounting bracket and bolts direct to the engine block.
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Starter removed and stripped. All looked OK, no obvious problems and clean. However, during removal, I noted the securing bolts were not as tight as I would have thought they would be. On removing the starter, I noticed the face of the flange of the motor and the mounting face on the bellhousing were covered with a fine film of oil. Both faces were cleaned with meths, the starter replaced and bolts tightened up satisfactorily. On starting a vast improvement in cranking speed over previous. I can only assume the starter motor earths to the engine through its mounting on the bellhousing and this was compromised by slack mounting and oil on the flange faces
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#20 Thanks. Will take starter off and clean up (although has been professionally tested and deemed ok). There seem to be inertia types, from Transits/P100s which might fit, and might be an option.
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If it’s the Spitfire type they are for sale on EBay via mosseurope, not sure how to do a link to EBay but found by inputting “triumph spitfire ignition switch”.
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Thanks to all. I will bear in mind the starter motor suggested in #17/18. Perhaps even tho the starter motor on the car has been deemed ok one with more power would obviously help. Is the one suggested a pre engaged type as mine is inertia type?
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Yes it’s the one with the 3 pipes connected. I had Minis back in the 70s (didn’t we all) and from memory the cap off the old (metal) master cylinder may fit. I will have a look around. (None in my local scrappers, which seems to have nothing older than 2000ish).
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The cap on the Mk2 Escort looks too big to fit my reservoir, although the complete unit looks like it would fit. I have come up with a hi tech (semi permanent) solution. A 2p piece is almost a perfect fit in the aperture in the lower detached section which screws into the reservoir. I have blanked this aperture by aralditing this piece of currency in place, to form a sealing cap. Obviously this means I have to discard the top section (which has the float and terminals), but not a major drama as just need to check the brake fluid level visually - which I do anyway rather than relying on the indicator switch on the dash.
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#14 Don’t think it’s a problem with timing as this would not affect the starter motor, battery and associated circuitry which I think will be causing the lethargic cranking.
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Walking into Durham City today, spotted Green Seven driving west over Milburngate Bridge about 14.30. Looking good!!
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