Ian Mackenzie

Just doing k series to duratec, but not a cheap option..... cheers Ian

Hi there I agree with Simon, I'd guess that the box by the Emerald is likely to be a relay to provide a switched +12V feed to the Emerald (The old Rover Mems ECU had a constand 12V feed, at least that's what I did when I put a new ECU in my car). Regarding the AS5, then yes just unplug and it should be good to go.... Cheers Ian

Hi there, is it the as5 that you with to remove?

Enjoyed the project, BM sent.

Tiny jewllers screwdriver for me, the end of the spring clip is pointed to if you can find it you can lever this out then is should unwind with a pair of plyers. Cheers Ian

Six and two threes for this one I think......the only concern I'd have that with more heat the flange may distort a little.... I've welded over a brazed joint before and the brazing will spit and fall out the joint with the heat (I used a biggger weld pool to help this, but again this means more heat....), The best weld would be to remove the brazing first to ensure there is no contamination. However it's not load critial so I would not be too concerned, it will be stong enough for its purpose. Hope this helps Ian

You'll only need the cam sensor if your running sequential injection, no need for it using grouped injection and wasted spark. I ran my eu3 engine an ms2 ecu with grouped injection and wasted spark. cheers Ian

Hi Paul YHBM.....SOLD. cheers Ian

Hi there From memory the wiring from the Caterham will be Green - Switched Ignition +12V Black - Earth Black/White - Signal If you look about under the dash you'll probably find some spare connectors, otherwise just tap off from the rev counter. Cheers Ian

Hi there Rather than chop these up for the duratec I though it was better to sell them and get some new hoses. As below £65..or offers... plus postage please. Cheers Ian

Hi Stu I've always needed a balljoint splitter for that one. Cheers Ian

My money is on an IR lap timer. Give stack a call, they helped me when I had a stack dash and needed some help. cheers Ian

Hi there I've not had the engine running in the car, it's been in the my garage the last year waiting to go in the 7 to replace the K-series and this was part of the final refresh before going in the 7. I will give Swindon a call! Cheers Ian

Here is what I've found....... The above shows what a state the shell was in on No4, the good shell is pulled from No3 as a comparison. When I first took the cap of I had to look twice to see the shell as it looked like it had disappeared!! The end cap looks OK and I couldn't see any sign of blueing / overheating......and now onto the crank...... While it is marked the journal I think is OK and it is still smooth. My real concern with the crank is that the shells have been squeezed between the side of the bearing cap and the side of crank and there is more axial play (side to side) on the rod, I've just measured with a feeler gauge, the tollerance is 0.36mm according to the build manual and I'm getting just under 0.5mm so it's looking like the crank is scrap! Just deciding on the best options and way forward.... Cheers Ian P.S. I did borrow the shells from No3 and put them into No4, No4 whith good bearings now reaches the top of the cylinder head with no flatspot....

Thanks for all the posts.....looks like 7 Wonders is on the ball. I've just checked again in the garage and the pistons are all in a perfect line and I agree it would be unlikely for a rod to bend and not rotate a piston. And.......yes there is a dead spot on 4 while 1 is still moving.....and I can get a clonk......I'll update you tomorrow with some pictures, just a little concerned on the condition of the crank. Cheers Ian

Hi there This was happening while I had the K series in before I started the engine swap, but I thought I'd address the issue at the same time I'm changing the engine. Cheers Ian

I've just done a quick measurment with a dial gauge and I'm getting a difference of 1.4mm between 1 and 4!!

OK so this may not be the best day in the garage.....I dropped the head off to be skimmed after doing some porting to match to the inlet and exhaust manifolds... I went to clean up the top of the block in anticipation of putting the engine back togther tomorrow afternoon. When cleaning I noticed that the No4 piston was circa 1.5mm from reaching the top of the bore, while all the others reached the top of the bore, and when measured again, No4 piston also was about 1.5mm lower at the bottom end of the stroke... So I'll now be stripping the bottom end tomorrow, but my initial conclusion is the conrod in No4 is about 1.5mm shorter than the rest....and therefore bent.... So over to the power of the Blatchat wisdom....what are your thoughts....and if the conrod is bent does anyone have some standard 2l Duratec conrods left over after an upgrade? Here is a pic and you can just make out the difference in the crown hights for pistons No1 and No4, No4 sitting lower. Cheers Ian

I've got a type 9 gearbox in the car, when cold the gearstick centres it self and moves freely, but when its warm it does not self centre and is stiff to move the gear stick....... My initial though is the box is low in oil....any other suggestions...anyone had the same issue? Cheers Ian

Just about to put a sterling immobiliser in my car. cheers Ian

Hi there So far I'm assuming that it is fuel injection and the ECU controls this...... As John says the ECU will normally run the pump for a few seconds to presurise the fuel rail and then cut until it sees a crank signal. The Fuel pump relay coil will normally have +12V ignition feed and the ECU will switch to ground to switch the relay. The simplest fault would be the fuel pump relay is stuck on, can you swap the relay. This fault would lead to the fuel pump running continuously when the ignition is on but the engine is not running, and it would still drive OK when the engine is running. All this is based on using a fuel rail with a return line. Good Luck! Cheers Ian

Hard to say with a picture, but it does look like a casting mark.....but I can't be certain. If you have some doubt it may be worth doing a dye test, RS have some kits here: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/test-measurement/workshop-inspection-accessories/leak-flaw-detector-sprays/ Cheers Ian

Hi there Thanks for all the comments...... Yes ideally a 5 speed box with better ratios is the way to go, but all the pocket money has been used puting the Duratec in at present (But I do have 2 diffs in garage to choose from without spending anymore cash). The speeds I've used have been based on the rolling circumference of some Yokohama 048s (185x60x13), though I'll probably have 205s on the back when the car is finnished so the speeds will change slightly again. Regarding the use of the car, I'm looking at building close to a sprint spec though not full sprint spec (so performace rather than touring) as I'll still be on a medium compound tyres.... Cheers Ian

Hi There I'm just deciding on the best Diff as I have two! The Duratec that I'm fitting should have Circa 200hp and rev limit of 7,500 with a 5 speed gearbox with the following ratios: 1st 3.36:1, 2nd 1.81:1, 3rd 1.26:1, 4th 1:1 and 5th 0.82:1 (I think) With the 3.6 Diff I get the following 'calculated' top speeds in each gear: 1st = 39mph, 2nd = 73mph, 3rd = 104, 4th = 131, 5th = 160mph With the 3.9 Diff I get the following 'calcuated' top speeds in each gear:1st = 36mph, 2nd = 67mph, 3rd = 90mph, 4th = 113, 5th = 148mph Gut feel looks like the 3.9 Diff, but would welcome opinions.... Cheers Ian

Hi James Blatmail sent. Cheers Ian