Andy Whittle

Ideal for aero-screened drivers... 2 pairs of WileyX XL1 ballistic glasses complete with cases, cleaning clothes, neck straps, and a spare set of night tint lenses. One set are sunglasses with a purple/blue mirror finish the other are clear - day and night time driving functionality. Very good condition as I didn't use them much. Price - £50 for the whole lot including the postage. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v185/Whittler/photo.jpg Edited by - andy whittle on 1 May 2014 20:49:44

Thanks RJ and John After a lot of cutting and pulling I managed to get the MFRU apart. Loads of glue/sealant holding it together which makes me think it's been apart before . Cleaned all the relay contacts and hey presto! I'm back in action Interestingly enough the resistance across the fuel pump contacts wasn't very high before I cleaned them. It just shows that it doesn't take much to stop it working, especially when you take into account the length of cable and numerous connections the current has to flow through to get to the pump. Now I have to put the car back together, but first I'll check and clean all the earthing points . Cheers - Andy

Following a problem starting my car after the Poole Quay for my Car event a couple of weeks back I have been trying to find the cause of my problems. Basically the engine was cranking fast but not starting. Eventually it started and idled without problems. I then pulled away only for the engine to die and again I had problems restarting but eventually it kicked into life. Since then I have not been able to start the car at all. Car is an R300 (1.9 Scholar K-Series), with MBE ECU, Shurlock EP100 immobiliser (now removed), battery master switch, Brise starter motor, etc, etc Fault finding carried out thus far: Checked ECU fuse Checked ECU plug is seated correctly, checked for damaged pins - none found Checked fuel pump fuse Checked fuel pump connector Checked and by-passed the inertia cut-off switch Checked/cleaned grey engine loom plug Checked the battery master switch, seems to be OK Checked battery is fully charged and holding charge (also tried using spare battery as booster) Jump-started from another car (read in another thread) Re-programmed immobiliser keys Un-installed the immobiliser completely Continuity checked from fuel pump socket to the grey engine loom plug Other observations: When the ignition is first switch on the fuel pump doesn't sound like it's priming When I measure the voltage across the fuel pump connector and turn the ignition on the meter reads +12v and then falls to zero. When cranking the engine the meter reads 12v at the fuel pump connector The fuel pump runs if connected directly to the battery The car will run with a direct connection to the fuel pump, it will also run if +12v is connected into the relevant side of the inertia cut-off switch I've taken the cover of the MFRU and the relays seem to be operating correctly for starting. I could power the fuel pump from a direct feed via a relay but this seems like a proper bodge job What more can I try? Any pointers most appreciated… Cheers - Andy

Sold to the man with a Caterham and an MX5 Gleneagles 😬

You have BM

Hi Phil, is your style bar still available? cheers - Andy

Could anybody recommend a good place to buy top quality needle files please? I guess Swiss made would be better than Chinese/Taiwan made? cheers - Andy

I saw this on eBay, not mine, sorry if it's already been posted.... Build Trolley on eBay Edited by - andy whittle on 3 Feb 2013 20:47:17

@ NewCat are you still looking for an iPhone 3GS? Or anybody else? I have one to get rid of 16Gb, very good condition, on O2 (but without a current SIM). Same deal as Rich... Also have a genuine Apple dock and remote for the same for another £15... Cheers - Andy

Thank you Richard, my grill arrived today. Great looking bit of kit . Now I have to give it to my wife so she can give back to me for Christmas from the kids 😬 Cheers - Andy

Hi Richard, thanks for your email. I have sent the payment and address to your account. Cheers - Andy

Please add me to you list if you are able... Thanks Andy

Sorry if this has been posted before I have found this site really useful in the last few days trying to source parts from my local motor factors... Replace Auto Parts

I would be interested in one set (dependant upon final price) cheers - Andy

YHBM Ph

Is this it? Fortis Flieger Picture Info here Fortis Flieger Info Nice looking watch Edited by - Andy Whittle on 24 Feb 2012 19:27:09

Hi DSL, is this now sold? If not I would like... cheers - Andy

They are just the depressions in the not-so-hard tiny shims; they are about 10mm in diameter. The followers and cams were still good. Oily measured each one about 5 times, selecting the correct one to get the gap right and gently grinding some to fit. Of course there are 16 to sort out 😬

Location of mine; http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v185/Whittler/My%20Caterham/OilCatchTank2.jpg

It could be the throttle-body balance; one or more could be drawing more/less air than the rest. Check out the Roller-Barrel setup on the Minister Power website Minister Power it might help The info can be found in the Customer Support section. Edited by - Andy Whittle on 21 Dec 2011 22:47:13

Oily fixed mine for me in a 1.9K. There were 3 that were very worn. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v185/Whittler/IMG_0433.jpg It took a long time to do, Oily's patience is amazing Edited by - Andy Whittle on 21 Dec 2011 23:00:18

Hi Skeetsy, BM sent; 1 x Standard, 1 x Reversed, 2 x K Inside, I x Arch Inside Cheers - Andy

Spotted on Gumtree; NICK SV number plate

I'm interested Doug

Maybe you have already done this... Move the pedal box to the furthest away position