Andy Whittle

Hi Andrew, very interesting . Are they black? And how much do you want from me to liberate them? cheers Andy I am Leg End...

Does anybody have any "spare" half doors? Will consider CC, Softbits or ABS ones...even home made if they are useable cheers Andy I am Leg End...

Hi Paul, sorry I have no idea. However as the material is basically very fine strand glass-fibre in a "different" method of presentation it should be similar to the more usual e-glass. There is no mention of was happens to it as it deteriorates on any websites I've found, some say it lasts longer though . cheers Andy I am Leg End...

Hi Jon (Low Flying..) Thanks for your information . I believe I probably have the same stuff as you, I have weighed it and it's near identical in terms of grams per linear meter. Also the invoice lists it as 150g. After doing a few scrapbook calculations I worked out that I needed 1.84m to give 150g/litre. I have repacked with 1.835m so not far off, more by luck than judgment and subject to my schoolboy maths. I will be very interested to hear about your experiences with wrapping 2.14 metres into your silencer, especially as mine was quite full with 1.835! cheers Andy I am Leg End... Edited by - Andy Whittle on 30 Mar 2009 14:20:27

Having seen that photo I think so too ! Easily rectified though. I may see if I can get some guidance from either the manufacturer or bike exhaust guys tomorrow and then remove any excess Acousta-fil. Not sure what the effect of over packing would be? Any scientist offer a theory? I am Leg End...

Hi Norman, yes it's fireproof. The info from the manufacturer says up to 900deg C. cheers Andy I am Leg End...

An Exhausting Tale! My exhaust had started to get a bit on the loud side! Not being one to deliberately upset the neighbours and also living in an area where a lot of people like riding their horses on the public roads I needed to do something about it. Using the BlatChat search tool I found many threads about repacking using long strand e-glass, wire-wool, rock-wool etc, etc and a couple of threads about Acousta-fil. So using the power of Google I went to do some research about Acousta-fil; long story short I phoned the manufacturer (http://www.culimeta-saveguard.com/ ) to find out where to buy the stuff. However it would appear they were a little clueless and couldn't sell me small amounts and didn't know who I could get it from! More Google searching and I eventually found a bike exhaust company called http://www.racefit.co.uk who advertised recharge kits for their bike exhausts which listed Acousta-fil as the repacking material. So gave them a ring and they were very helpful. The only draw back being that their Acousta-fil comes in pre-cut lengths designed for their small bike exhausts. After a bit of discussion we thought that if I bought enough sections I could easily repack my exhaust. They explained that it's a very easy to use material, can be cut with scissors and is so soft you could make yourself a pair of underpants and wear them all day without get any irritation (unlike the glass fibre packing in my exhaust)! Don't try this at home! After some estimation we decided how much I would need as each section is 237mm x 672mm, we settled on 10 to give the necessary volume required. At £2.88 a section it wasn't to bad, with VAT and next-day delivery it worked out to be £38.87. The following is a set of photos showing how it went. Repacking my exhaust with Acousta-fil Observations and notes The material is very easy to use and very quick to do, even including stitching it together to form a long blanket. It really doesn't itch or irritate your hands as it really is so soft. You can easily cut it with scissors and shape it to how you want it. I only used 8 sheets and it was packed very tightly, so the total cost using Racefit supplied material would only be £28 inc vat and delivery (if I hadn't bought too much). The Acousta-fil is stitched together with thread that melts when in use allowing the material to expand and fill the exhaust can. I was told I didn't need to use any wire-wool, thus saving money, skin and all the mucking about. Not using it supposedly allows the Acousta-fil to provide better noise suppression especially on straight through silencers. It should be possible to get the material in the correct width for our Caterham exhausts, however finding it is the hard part. It could be bought in bulk from the manufacturer but I guess you would have to buy loads! Did it make my exhaust quieter? Well it seems to have done the trick The exhaust note is a little deeper now as it was distinctly "tinny" before and my kids didn't hear me pull up outside the house after an installation check. Also when I mash the pedal the induction roar from the TBs is louder than the exhaust noise now 😬. I guess as the stitching melts and the Acousta-fil expands the exhaust sound will probably change again, hopefully for the better. I think it was a success I am Leg End...

Testing a slide show... Test complete Edited by - andy whittle on 28 Mar 2009 16:25:16

Hi Jack, I would like a set. I have sent you a BlatMail. thanks Andy I am Leg End... Edited by - Andy Whittle on 22 Mar 2009 09:46:34

Sorry Simon, but I can't lend a hand/foot as I'm too far away... But you could buy an Gunsons EasiBleed kit they are reasonably cheap, easy to use and make all bleeding a one man job. Probably get one in Halfords I am Leg End...

Hi Gordon, I'm interested in your wheels. Please could you send me some photos? Although a red wheel would clash horribly with my orange R300 😬 agwhittle@gmail.com Also do you have any idea of the cost of carriage? cheers Andy D'oh forgot to ask before hitting the button...are they Dedion fit? Edited by - Andy Whittle on 10 Mar 2009 20:32:37

Do you know if these have some legal tread left on them? I'm interested, I'll drop an email and find out. cheers Andy That includes interest in the mirrors too I am Leg End... Edited by - Andy Whittle on 8 Mar 2009 18:33:49

If that comes with all the ancillaries you have got yourself a bargain I am Leg End...

Hi Vinnie, agreed. Please could you send me some photos and brief notes by BlatMail? Thanks for your help . Cheers, Andy I am Leg End...

Hi Vinnie, no I didn't know you create your own. I have the earpiece for a helmet, can you use these somehow? Any advice (and money saving ideas) welcome. cheers Andy I am Leg End...

Ideally I want two (I talk to myself enough already) but one would be considered. Pretty please I am Leg End...

There is a theory that it can help. Some adaptive ECUs store values for things such as timing etc for idle, slow running to take into account changes in the engine, different fuel grades/quality etc to ensure optimal running. These ECUs also monitor and store errors and may adaptor the engine performance to compensate. By resetting the ECU the good stored values and the bad errors can be wiped from memory and the ECU has to learn all about the engine and it's optimum running parameters all over again. Is this a good thing? I'm not sure... And of course it complete depends upon the ECU fitted by the manufacturer. I am Leg End...

Hi Peter, package arrived this morning. Thanks they are are perfect. cheers Andy I am Leg End...

Hi Peter , I won your fleabay auctions for the Wileys and the key fob. I look forward to getting them in the next few days; weather permitting cheers Andy I am Leg End...

I had this problem (cold lower hose never heating up) and then a failed thermostat, resulting very high water temperature after a few minutes of idling. I solved it by fitting a PRRT (with some help from a mechanic friend). Now the temperature is rock steady, and the lower hose has full range of temperatures. Money and time well spent I think. When it came to re-filling and bleeding the system he simply detached the header tank from it's bracket, topped up the tank fully, lifted the tank as high as the joining pipe would allow and massaged the hoses until the tank needed filling again. The heater was in the on position (valve open). This process was repeated several times. Then he cracked open the radiator bleed and topped up a little again until antifreeze seeped from the bleed hole. He then closed it tightly. Started the engine, continuing to hold the head tank as high as possible allowing the fluid to be drawn into the system and topped up as necessary. Finally more pipe massaging, small top up and the system was full. Ran the engine at idle to warm up fully, heater worked a treat, no leaks. Job done I am Leg End...

@ Stationary M25 Traveller My thoughts exactly, but I would take precautions 😳 @ Nifty Thanks for the reassurance, I hadn't thought that they would be loctited in place, I should have realised this Luckily I have found a tame mechanic that works for a rally/race team and he is interested in helping out. He has built a couple of K-series engined Caterhams and since seeing TG last night is keen to get re-aquained with one 😬 I am Leg End...

Hi Nifty, great tips thanks. Thus afternoon I decided to have a go again, once the garage temperature had come up to 5 degrees celius I sarted well camera in hand to document the whole process, however I'm stumped at the second job "Removing the intake trumpets and backplate". The small allen bolts holding the trumpets on are so tight I can't budge them. I'm concerned that I might strip a thread or shear a bolt I tried getting my hand in again but I need hands like my 10-year old daughters Any clues as what to do? I considered applying some heat with my small blowtorch but thought I'd check here first. I am Leg End...

Thanks Nifty, I'll try with the trumpets and backplate removed tomorrow. In my search for PRRT installation info I found your original thread about your fitting. I've studied your photos several times now and I think I will be following your example, looks the easiest to me and I don't need any extra bits as they all come in the LandRover kit. I am Leg End...

Two weeks ago it appears that my thermostat failed (shut), I have all the usual symptoms. I have obtained all the parts to replace it with a PRT, which as I'm going to be fiddling with the plumbing seems like a very good idea. This afternoon I've taken a look at the way all the bits go together and how they are likely to fit in my car and could instantly see that this isn't going to be an easy task. My engine is a 1.9 K-series with R500 rollerbarrel throttle bodies and a Caterham dry sump. There are many pipes and cables passing under the throttle bodies, and of course the support bracket as well. I have tried getting my hand in to the gap to gain access to the thermostat housing without holding any tools and I can't see how I'm going to be able to remove the thermostat housing (or cover) currently, there doesn't appear to be enough room to get my sockets/spanners in there due to the oil pipes, heater pipes, cables etc. My question is Would it be easier if I remove the throttle bodies to enable me easier access to the thermostat housing, pipe work etc? And if I do, is it a simple job of removing the support bracket, disconnection of the throttle cable, deconnection the fuel rail (and return) and then unbolting the bodies from the head? Do I need to replace the gasket between the bodies and the head? (anybody know the part no.) Are there any major pitfalls in doing this? cheers Andy I am Leg End...

1.9 k, R300, with windscreen, side screens, carbon-kevlar tillets, 1/2 tank = 518 Kg I am Leg End...