Graham King

Ah, didn't read it properly, just assumed it wouldn't need one as you could take the weight on a jack. As I said I decided to take the engine out anyway as I wanted to inspect the whole clutch assembly. Apologies. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Richard, there is an item here in 7FAQ about changing the CRB without removing the engine. In the end I removed my engine as I wanted to inspect the rest of the clutch assembly as well, but this method would negate the need for a hoist. Good luck. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Steve, I have found with mine that I have to do things in the right order. I have to ensure both the PC and Emerald are powered up first, plug in the USB cable to the PC then to the Emerald. Otherwise it does as you describe. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Hah, snap. 😬 R7 GPK Superlight #85

Simon, it probably is the sender, but check the guage, touch the sender connector to earth and the guage should fully deflect (i.e. go to max), if this works then sender is the issue. With regards to the apollo, try the same, but also check the switch is actually wired up properly. The sender for the apollo is the same as the one for the water temp. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Not sure what constitutes "best" but assuming a K-Series then Powerspeed are very popular and will fit a sports cat on their 4:2:1 offering. They are in Ashford, Kent. I have had one (without cat) for 3 tears now and very happy with the quality and the results. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Ray, thanks, all working now, the immobiliser had obviously got itself confused and wasn't disarming properly. A bit of playing around with the fob and the emerald and immobiliser are now synched. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Ray, they were working previously (but that was last year now), I will try resetting as you suggest and see if I get any further. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Hi, I am trying to get my new K3 Emerald to recognise the immobiliser, it runs fine with it deactivated. There are no instructions in the manual so have tried using the ones that I downloaded from the Emerald website which are from the old model. I have tried the following method, power on ignition (hence ECU), switch to "Setup" tab and select Immobiliser option. It shows deactivated in the status field as it should. As per the instructions, I then click on "Retry", it asks if it ok to overwrite the stored code, click OK, the status then changes to "Active - Learning" but never moves from this to "Active - Disarmed" as the manual suggests it should. In the ECU Status box it flashes "ECU Immobilised" in Yellow. Pressing the key fob has no impact. The RED light in the cockpit stays solid RED permanently during this process. I have mine setup for keyless start as well so rely on the immobiliser for my security so am a bit exposed at the moment. Am I missing something here, or does anyone have any ideas. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

BTTT Anyone? R7 GPK Superlight #85

John, YHM, well actually YH2M. 😳 R7 GPK Superlight #85

Hi, could anyone let me know the torque settings for the clutch cover on a K-Series, it is the AP uprated version if that makes any difference. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

SPW, sorry I could probably have worded it better what I really meant that it is not a simply buy and fit solution, it does require access to a local engineering facility. I don't know enough about the solution to be able to comment on it directly. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Regroo, did you read the article in this months Low Flying about an uprated CRB option from Burton Power. It's not quite that straightforward but if you have access to a local engineering shop it might be of interest. I am not sure about clutch, particularly bearing in mind my current woes with clutches but I am using the Caterham uprated (AP) cover and plate. Will be interested to see other responses as I have just upgraded to a 200BHP K. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Adrian, thanks for that info, I was going to ask if anyone knew of an uprated one that I could get hold of anywhere. Will check Low Flying. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Thanks guys, that is what I suspected, really annoying as I specifically bought a new one to avoid exactly this problem in the future. I assume that it is full engine out to replace, or can the engine be moved forward enough to do it. Could I have made a mistake in fitting that caused it to fail after such a short time? Box has been refreshed as well by R&R and the change felt really nice prior to that point. Tanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

So, was at DVA yesterday to get the new engine started , whilst there took car out for a test drive (approx 4 miles) and all was fine. Trailored car back home and took it out for a 30 mile drive today, all was running really nicely until about 250yds from home when I started to get a screaching noise when the clutch was depressed. Took it out again for a short drive and all seemed ok again, parked in drive and turned off. Came out 5 mins later to put car in garage and now whenever the clutch is depressed I get the same loud screeching noise, this stops on releasing the clutch. I can select gears however. I have also noticed that I don't get the normal (lay shaft?) rattle on tickover with the clutch released. The Clutch Cable, CRB and Clutch Fork were new but the clutch (AP) was about 1500 miles old and looked fine. Before I resign myself to taking the engine back out ☹️ and changing it all over does anyone have any bright ideas. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

I am sure someone else can clarify, but I would guess it is the same as the water temp sender, it must operate with the same elec outputs as it drives the temp guage in exactly the same way. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Folks, many thanks for all the advice. Got it sorted in the end (using the advice here), basically had to start Emerald software, import the map, power up the Emerald, then link together using the leads and then set the comms port in the Emerald. Not in that order and it didn't work. Thanks again. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Hi, YHM re FIA Bar. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Folks, hopefully a quick question. I am off up to DVA next week to get the new engine set up and started for the first time, I have been trying to download the initial map Dave sent me but am having problems connecting to the Emerald. I don't have a laptop with a serial connector so bought a USB - Serial connector (the one recommended by Emerald. The software is loaded fine and I have imported the map into the Emerald software. The power light on the Emerald comes on fine, but I can't connect to it from the laptop. I get 2 comms port options COM4 and COM5, COM5 does nothing and COM4 comes up with an error (bad trigger handle) when I try and select it. Does anyone have any ideas? I just want to make sure it is all working ok when I go up to DVA. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85 Edited by - Graham King on 28 Feb 2010 13:24:44

I tried a lot of different ways to find a route out but all went too close to the exhaust manifold. Mine definitely won't come out under the alternator, I was going to get Pirtek in to have a look but it all started to work out quite expensive just to reroute a couple of pipes. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Thanks SM25T, I had done the Apollo the right way round , just wanted to check. If only I could find a way of routing the oil pipes another way, don't like them going through the alt belt, just feels wrong. R7 GPK Superlight #85

Folks, just a quick question on both the above; 1) Does it matter which way round the pipes are fitted to the sandwich plate for the Apollo tank. I know the long pipe goes to the top of the tank but does it matter which outlet it comes from off the sandwich plate. If yes, I have refitted it to the outlet nearest to the block, is this correct? 2) Similar question for the heater hoses to valve, does it matter which way round these go. I.e. Does it matter if the thermostat housing to heater valve hose goes to the top or bottom of the heater valve. I assume the coolant will flow in either direction through the heater matrix. If it does matter, can someone confirm which wether the thermostat to heater pipe goes to the top or bottom of the valve. Just want to check I have everything connected back up correctly. Thanks. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85

I took mine to Pirtek (they have branches all over the place), they lengthened the pipe for me so it fitted properly. In practice they removed the end pieces and attached them to another pipe. Cost about £15. Graham. R7 GPK Superlight #85